Adept at Adrift

Monday, September 03, 2012
San Telmo, Buenos Aires F.D., Argentina
By relocating ourselves, reorienting ourselves, we shake loose the shackles of expectation. Adrift is a different place where we give ourselves permission to be different people. (Eric Weiner in 'The Geography of Bliss')
 
If you want to meet cool people, take the ferry between Colonia del Sacramento and Buenos Aires . It never fails that I meet the most interesting and travel rich people in the middle of the Rio de Plata. This trip I met two men from Nova Scotia, Canada who travel often and hard. At the time of our encounter they had already been to Panama, Paraguay, Brazil, and Uruguay. They had plans to see Argentina and Chile and to finish their adventure in New York. WOW. We had a fabulous hour swapping travel tales.  

I took a Radio Taxi to my new neighborhood, Recoleta, and wrestled my two monstrous excuses for suitcases up the small elevator to the third floor. I was met by Papa Luis, the owner of the house. Luis is an older gentleman, around 74, and has opened his home to students for the last four years. There were three bedrooms, and all were occupied during my time there. I had two roommates, Norma, an American and Tessa, from Holland. The home was tidy and warm and I had my own room with a small desk and twin bed. My roommates were not home when I arrived and that left me some time to talk with Luis . I learned that his wife was in Spain for three weeks. This would explain much in the week to come, but even in that moment I could tell Papa Luis was a little lost without the lady of the house. Since I was more or less alone for the night, I decided to join my new Canadian friends out on the town. They let me know that they would be by to pick me up at 12:30 pm. A nap was clearly the next order of business! We had a great time out, and I was happy to have the opportunity to meet some Porteño amigos (Argentinian friends) that had joined our small entourage. 

One thing that always amazes me is how well Latin American people dance. It's as if their hips are made differently, with more or less pieces I'm not sure - but put on a cumbia rhythm and these people MOVE. It's always fun to be in the middle of a dance floor where everyone is legitimately dancing, not just bumping and grinding. In true Argentinian style, we ended our evening by grabbing some tea at a cafe around 6:00 am . Exhausted, we made plans to meet up the next day for some sightseeing and said goodbye. 

The next day, or more specifically, the next afternoon, I met my roommates. Tessa and I immediately clicked being closer in age and having very similar life stories. I invited her to join me later that evening for dinner with my new friends. We ate at Las Cabras in Palermo, which is a fantastic spot. There are three restaurants in the greater Buenos Aires area (Las Cabras, Las Cholas and Las Cabritas) that are all owned by the same people. These parillas are absolutely fantastic and are SO cheap! We fed five people a selection of prime Argentinean meat, french fries, grilled vegetables, and proveleta (a divine Argentine creation of fried cheese), PLUS wine for a grand total of $60. Pure insanity. What's more, the restaurants are adorable with a whole red theme and a fantastic patio. After dinner our Argentinean host, Federico, took the American and one Canadian to el barrio Chino (China town) for us to buy peanut butter . This part of town is literally one Chinese supermarket after another with small shops interspersed selling a variety of knick-knacks from socks to smiling buddhas. Interestingly, they also sell a variety of gluten free items! It was a fabulous evening full of laughter and good people - one that will not be quickly forgotten. 

I was also lucky to have Tessa living with me, as we could easily walk to school together. We learned to navigate the subte (subway) together and are even proud owners of our own Sube cards, which allow us to use any subte line or colectivo (bus) with just one swipe. They aren't hard to get, but you do have to go through the lovely bureaucracy of Argentina, showing your passport and standing in a long line. I feel very legitimate every time I use it! 

Tessa and I quickly learned that while our homestay was a pleasant place, it didn't fit that well with our lifestyles. Papa Luis was a little lonely, I believe, and got very upset if we were not home for dinner . I should say more specifically if Tessa was not home, as I had not bought the dinner package! I now know that homestays, while amazing opportunities to learn intimately about another culture, can be very difficult if you are over the age of 25. I stayed in a homestay in Spain and it was incredible; being 19 and having a "mama" that took care of me was fantastic. But, nearing 30, Tessa and I were not looking to be taken care of, more for a place to sleep and secure our belongings. A fellow student of ours let us know that he was living in a large student home in San Telmo that had five open bedrooms. With that tip off, we said adios (y muchisimas gracias) to Papa Luis and moved the next day! Now we're situated in our sprawling San Telmo apartment which we share with Australian, Dutch and French roommates. It's much more relaxed and Tessa and I don't feel guilty when we decide to go for a late afternoon café or to join our friends for dinner. 

I was happy to find that La Academia Buenos Aires is much more organized than its counterpart in Montevideo, and offered a fantastic introduction to new students, going over the public transport, counterfeit money, and which barrios to avoid . The school itself is beautiful, with high arching ceilings and a cupola of stained glass that opens out to a terrace overlooking downtown BsAs. I think taking a brief two week hiatus in Colonia was a fantastic idea for my language skills. Coming back after that small break things seemed to be sharper. I had a fantastic partner in my class, Tim, who was from Germany. He was able to explain something to me that I have NEVER understood and that no teacher has ever been able to clarify. He was able to identify the breakdown and helped me bridge a major gap in my learning process. 

With each passing week Spanish slowly soaks into the folds of my brain, saturating it with the soft "shh" sound and rolling "r's" that permeate every sentence here. I like Argentinean Spanish better - it's more romantic and musical than the Spanish from home or even from Spain. I love the way it feels coming out of my mouth and that I can understand the Porteños sitting across from me in the plazas or standing next to me at the grocery store . I wish I could use it more at home, but unfortunately my roommates are not at a level where they can speak in Spanish. So, I absorb as much as I can in school and with my conversation partners. 

Time seems to be flying by here, with never a dull moment. The most exciting by far was when I went to eat my breakfast on Saturday morning, and noticed black smoke rolling out of the building next to us. Shortly after three fire trucks came screaming down the street below. No one was hurt, but the fire was bad enough that the bomberos (firemen) were using three hoses to put out the flames. It's been interesting to see the clean up over the last few days. Tessa and I have also been discovering Tango, both in frequenting some of the Milongas (meaning where tango music or dance is performed) and even taking a few lessons ourselves! Buenos Aires has it's own rhythm, and you can always find something to do - no matter the hour. Partner the constant thrum of the city with the lively group of people living in our house and it's hard to find time to sleep.   

I find myself questioning who I've become as I now eat dinner at 9 pm, stay out or up until 2 am and often find myself arriving to places a bit late (or as Porteños say "pico"). Per usual, I'm finding that nothing is as I expected; there is always some strange and mystical way that the universe knits together the path that I continue to unconsciously follow. Who I am is indeed ever evolving as I become adept at being adrift.  
  

 

 
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Comments

Phyllis
2012-09-06

Caitlin this is a wonderful entry. You write well about this new chapter of your journey. Keep up the good work. I miss you!

Aunt Chris
2012-09-07

I love to read your entries! Be happy!

2025-02-10

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