Decided to stay another night as we had come a long way thought we should find Kuelap. This is supposed to be a hidden gem to rival Machu Piccu we shall see. We set off on beautiful route nestled in the Andes Mountains to the village of Tingo, it soon became a goat track again with the road perched perilously at times on the edge of a very steep incline.

As we left the valley behind the road changed to gravel fortunately there was not much traffic although we had been warned about the buses the odd truck and mini bus was all we saw. We passed through small settlements subsistent farming few cattle sheep coffee and corn. The road is now getting quite broken up we reach a point with a waterfall cascading over the road creating huge mud puddles.

 Not wishing to give up Tom wanted to push on, Lyndsay, and Marian took the sensible option and headed back. So without much discussion Tom rides on through the water I trot on behind as normal trying to catch up. He did wait eventually. We give the thumbs up and carry on. We are climbing high now the land scape us changing as we get above the tree line. Weather is starting to change the road is a bit of a mess, no sign of Kuelap one more bend if no sign we will turn back. We stop at what we thought was the top the road just keeps going up there comes along as if no effort a huge truck how it fits round the bends no idea, they wave and carry on. 
 We stop for a drink and decide to turn back as we discuss this so bounding up the road is a guy with a huge machete at his side. Not sure Tom knew quite what to make of him. Fortunately he was really friendly in broken Spanish and English I think he told us this was his land and he had a bike. Lots of photos and hand shakes later we head back down. Also trying to make sense of something he said about Kuelap which seemed we had gone the wrong way.
 
Back through the mud and rocks we come through the settlement of Maria. There it is the sign for 20 km Kuelap which we had missed, so we had gone the wrong way. It seemed a shame not to try. The village of Maria probably would be beautiful but it looked as if water pipes were being laid so there were diggers and mud everywhere. We negotiated this and carried on up the road seemed endless just as we are about to give up again there is the new visitors centre it's a sign Kuelap 5 km.

 The weather is starting to get cool and grey but we have come all this way. I get the tickets Tom hires 2 horses perfect. We proceed to take the direct muddy route up led by a girl with a baby tied to her back. When we get to the top she is not even breathing hard.  
 
This is going to be a record speed tour the guide is so enthusiastic about showing everything to us. It is an amazing place we would not have seen a lot without the guide. The walls tower over us as we walk in we clamber up the smooth stone steps. The citadel fortress sits at the top overlooking 3 valleys it is amazing you don't notice it from below.

Rain starts to fall not just pitter pater but heavy wet stuff. 

  We have a long way to go back so we cut short our tour and have to run all the way down.
 
 Once back at the bike the rain is falling in torrents starting to run down the mud road. This is going to be interesting.

As the road wound it's way back down to the valley for a short while we leave the rain behind but not for long. As we come back through Maria the water is cascading down the road carving deep groves into the mud and gravel. At one point the road is flooded and the force of the water so strong that there was a woman trying to stop the road washing away with a shovel. after about 90 minutes of riding we reached Tingo, a really welcome site to see Tarmac at now we just had to hope that the river was not too high and cutting off the road. All was ok we made it back to the hotel just as it was getting dark. Only to be greeted with a pair of very concerned friends who I think we're more relieved to see us than we were to be back. Quote from Marion, you two are grounded. 
 It had been an adventure.....