In the 11th and 12th centuries, Cordoba was one of the largest, richest and most sophisticated cities in the known world. In the city which was part of the caliphate stretching from the Iberian Peninsula to the middle east, Muslims, Christians and Jews lived in peace, harmony and mutual respect. Moses Maimonides, the 12th century Jewish humanist and philosopher, was born in Cordoba. One the city's most thriving industries was hide tanning and the production of leather and leather goods. A cordwainer (cordonnier in French) derived from "Cordoba" is old English for a shoemaker. And we wore down much shoe leather wondering around the beautiful and picturesque streets and alleyways of Cordoba’s well preserved old city! The Spanish Inquisition saw off the entire Jewish population, but there remains a small Muslim community today. There is still a Jewish Quarter of the old city, but the only remaining synagogue is now a museum. Interestingly, according to our guide (who himself was Jewish) elderly residents of Cordoba still today touch the right lintel of their doorways on entering their homes, although apparently most have no idea why - the origin of the custom (the Jewish custom of touching the mezuzah on entering the house) having been forgotten. But the highlight of Cordoba and the reason that a million or more tourists flock each year to the city is a building unique in the world – the stunning Mezquita, one of the largest mosques in the world, right in the middle of which is a Roman Catholic cathedral!
Construction of the Mezquita was begun in the 8th century and further enlarged during the 9th and 10th centuries
. In its heyday, main prayer hall contained nearly 1300 arches, making it look like a “forest of palm trees”. Each arch was constructed on columns recycled from earlier eras – mostly Roman times. Then at the end of the 13th century, the Christians retook Cordoba and the Mezquita ceased to be a place of Muslim worship. Sometime later and not without some controversy, a full-blown Roman Catholic cathedral was constructed literally in the middle of the mosque. Around 400 of the original arches were destroyed in order for this to happen and a bell tower was built around the mosque’s minaret, but fortunately the Spanish king of the time showed up, realized that he had made a mistake in agreeing to the cathedral being built within the mosque and stopped any further destruction. Even during the Inquisition, the building was left intact and as a consequence we are left with today the bizarre sight of a cathedral slap bang in the middle of a mosque! Indeed, so intact is the mosque that Muslim visitors have been known to show up and lay down prayer mats in the appropriate place. Apparently they are always chased off by the guards. The Pope has denied requests to allow Muslim worship on the grounds that this has been a consecrated church for centuries and besides which, there was a church on the site before there was ever a mosque. Just to prove the point, a mosaic floor from what is said to be a 7th century church was uncovered beneath one of the archways and has recently undergone renovation!
Cordwainers and mezuzot
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Córdoba, Andalusia, Spain and Canary Islands
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Comments

2025-02-07
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Brian munroe
2011-07-13
Because of our conversation, we have added cordoba to our itinerary! Thx b