The heatwave continues although is due to end in a day or so. It’s already 30 degrees by breakfast.
As we set off from Tiberius, we saw banana plantations, and even mangoes - Israel is in a fortunate position with agriculture.
Our first stop of the day was the Mount of Beatitudes. This is the traditional site of Jesus’ sermon on the Mount (and near to the
location for the loaves and fishes story). Overlooking the northwestern shore of the Sea of Galilee, the mount offers enchanting views of the northern part of the lake and across to the cliffs of the Golan Heights. Although the specific site where Jesus stood and delivered his sermon has never been confirmed through physical evidence, the location of the Mount of Beatitudes is entirely reasonable, as Jesus was based in Capernaum, which is located just a few miles away and is clearly visible from the mount.
The Church of the Beatitudes is an imposing octagonal building designed to blend into the surrounding slope. It was built in 1938. The eight sides of the church represent the eight beatitudes – eight blessings recited by Jesus in his Sermon on the Mount – which are also in the church’s stained glass windows, one in each of the church’s 8 sides. The central altar is made of alabaster and onyx and is surrounded by the seven virtues (justice, charity, prudence, faith, fortitude, hope, and temperance) depicted in the mosaic floor.
This land, prior to the 60’s, was part of Syria.
We then visited the Hula Nature Reserve.
This area was, at one time, an expanse of fifteen thousand acres, and was a resting place for migrating birds who, twice a year, flew over the area on their way from North Europe to Africa and then back again.
In the 1950s, the new Israeli government decided to drain the marshes of the Hula lake to create farming land. Due to the ecological ramifications of draining the swamp, the authorities, in 1994, decided to restore part of the marsh by reflooding a portion of the reserve.
In the intervening years, many of the birds who had once made their homes in the Hula moved on, but after the reserve was restored, a number of species returned, some nesting there permanently. Cranes, black and common storks, pelicans, pygmy cormorants, geese, ducks and several types of herons can now be seen in the reserve throughout the year. During migrating season, bird-watchers have counted 390 species of birds that come to the reserve to rest, and some species, like the white-tailed eagle, are being reintroduced to the area by the staff of the reserve. Professionals have also noticed some rare birds, including the Ruddy Shelduck, Red-crested Pochard and White-headed Duck.
It was really very hot when we were there (38 degrees). The visitors centre is air conditioned and had a great display on the history of the site. And then we got on a tractor which took us around the site. We saw pelicans, herons, ducks and flamingos. But it was so hot out there we were relieved when it was over - even my palms were sweating.
A brief lunch stop to recharge, and then we drove to Golan Heights.
Given the elevation, the weather was much cooler at 30 degrees. As a geopolitical region, it refers to the border region captured from Syria by Israel during the Six-Day War of 1967; the territory has been occupied by the latter since then and was subject to a de facto Israeli annexation in 1981. After the onset of the Syrian Civil War in 2011, control of the Syrian-administered part of the Golan Heights was split between the state government and Syrian opposition forces, with the United Nations Disengagement Observer Force (UNDOF) maintaining a 266 km2 buffer zone in between to help implement the Israeli–Syrian ceasefire across the Purple Line. From 2012 to 2018, the eastern half of the Golan Heights became a scene of repeated battles between the Syrian Army, rebel factions of the Syrian opposition (including the United States-backed Southern Front) as well as various jihadistorganizations such as al-Nusra Front and the Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant-affiliated Khalid ibn al-Walid Army.
In July 2018, the Syrian government regained full control over the eastern Golan Heights.
Practically, there is evidence of military activity everywhere up on the mountain. The border to Syria was only about 2kms away as far as the crow flies - and on the Israel side, there is agriculture and cropping everywhere (eg vineyards, apples, bananas). On the Syria side - there is just desert. Our guide has explained that it is little wonder that Syria wants this mountain back - given the value of the agricultural land (in addition to the obvious advantage of having a mountain in your border disputes)! Apparently there is some support in Israel apparently to give this land to Syria (in exchange for a peace agreement) but this is not acceptable to Syria.
We then visited a winery. It was a lovely way to spend an afternoon having a few wines!
And then back to Tiberias for our second night. Tiberias is an important tourist center due to its proximity to the Sea of Galilee and religious sanctity to Judaism and Christianity. The city also serves as a regional industrial and commercial center. The hotel itself is quite dated and the service is quite nonexistent but we have a lovely view of the Sea of Galilee and we are only steps away from the promenade.
We had a swim in the pool on our return, and a couple of drinks at the bar. During this time, Shabbat ended with some prayer time with all the Jewish people in the hotel. By 8.30pm, things return to normal and businesses reopen, but Saturday night is the equivalent of our Sunday night so it is still quiet - the Israeli working week starts Sunday! Staffing was light on in the hotel during Shabbat as the Jewish staff do not work - relying on their Arabic staff during this time.
However, we met a few others from our tour on the promenade for dinner at a restaurant - it was delicious - food here is so good! People are very friendly, one of the waiters in the restaurant tonight said “is Australia full of kangaroo?”.
Sue Conno
2023-09-11
Glad you had the winery experience…a nice break from all the info & history to take in which is so amazing!