A day trip to Abu Simbel

Monday, September 25, 2023
Abu Simbel, Aswan Governorate, Egypt
The Abu Simbel temples are the most famous of all Egyptian sites after the Pyramids of Giza. Built by the greatest of all the Pharoahs - King Ramses II, these huge rock cut temples were meant to convey the power of Egypts rulers. The 4 statues guarding the entrance to the larger temple are the largest statues to survive from the ancient Pharaonic era. 
As a result of the rising Nile walters (from the construction of the High Dam) these twin temples were under threat. Hence they were dismantled and relocated in 1968 on the desert plateau 64 metres above and 180 metres west of their original site. This was a massive job. The temple was cut into pieces of between 3 to 20 tonnes in weight and reassembling them. This took 5 years.
After seeing documentaries on these temples, we were keen to see them. They are over 200 kms from Aswan however so there are 13 of us who are flying to Abu Simbel today to see this magnificent site. 
We departed at 8.30 to head to Aswan Airport. Our boat staff packed us lunchboxes which was hilarious. About 10 bread rolls each - not sure how they thought we would ever eat this. On arrival at Abu Simbal airport (it’s a 30 minute flight on an Airbus) we found a very basic terminal. We were loaded onto basic buses (owned by Egypt Air) and driven out to the site. It was already 37 degrees and a decent walk to the temple. Of course, it was as impressive as we expected. So much larger than can be appreciated in photos. Even standing at their feet, it was hard to imagine how big they are. (One of them has lost its face and chest, and part of that is on the ground - and it’s a massive piece of stone!). We spent some time admiring it, and the inside rooms - just amazing. We could not work out what was more impressive- the fact they built it - or how it’s been relocated!!
The Abu Simbel Temple is actually two individual temples, both rock cut structures, and both built during the reign of King Ramses II sometime in the 1200 B.C. time period. One temple is dedicated to King Ramses II, and the second temple is dedicated to his beloved wife Queen Nefertari.
Abu Simbel Temple does not include a temple to any of the other wives of King Ramses II, only Queen Nefertari. This is because she was his first and principal wife, and he cherished her above all other. Many ancient Egypt temples were built because of devotion in this fashion. Whilst she did have this temple built to keep her happy - it is not as impressive as the larger one!!
The carvings and artwork that decorate both structures of the Abu Simbel Temple are incredible. Hand carved pillars, wall paintings, carvings, statues, and much more delight anyone who sees them. This artwork is thousands of years old, and very delicate. This is one reason why cameras are not allowed, to prevent any accidental damage or fading. You can however, still touch the walls - so the Egyptian government really needs to consider placing a barrier or glass over the top to stop this (our Egyptologist agrees!).
We were so unbelievably hot after this that we were covered in sweat. After replenishing with water, we were back on the bus, and back at the basic airport terminal (always 2 sets of security scanning in Egypt) and back on a 30 minute flight back to Aswan. It was so dusty that only a brown haze was visible during the flight. We did find it amusing that the safety video is played after takeoff. Both flights were a bit rough - our guide said they often train pilots on this short run - glad he told us that once it was over! Anyway, Aswan was 41 degrees when we returned. 
It was a pricey optional tour with the return flights, but very worthwhile as it is unlikely we will return!! 
There was a few of us that needed some extra cash from an ATM so headed off to find one. This was not the most comfortable experience as it was obvious what we were after, and all eyes were on us. There were also lots of guards and tourist police around with guns. One young guy decided to show us where a bank was (we’d already seen it and heading there anyway) and he waited there whilst we lined up. Clearly he was after a tip, and we all gave him one, but he was unhappy with the amount. Our guide explained later that it really does not matter what you tip - it will never be enough - they see themselves as poor and tourists are rich - so you can’t really win!
And then, we were so hot it was time for a beer (more then several actually) in the bar and then dinner and then a few more drinks on the rooftop!
Most Nile cruises here are either 3 or 4 days (or 7). We are on a 7 day cruise, but many tours left the boat today (being on a 4 day cruise) and they were replaced by others on a 3 day cruise - including a Contiki trip. Anyway, maybe they were tired (and they have 4am departures in the morning for their Abu Simbel excursion) so we didn’t hear boo out of them tonight!
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Comments

mellak
2023-09-26

Great phots Bec looks amazing.

Rachel D
2023-09-27

I thought you’d be partying with the Contiki group! Disappointing 😜 photos are incredible!

2025-02-16

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