Last sail days on the Nile

Thursday, September 28, 2023
Luxor Governorate, Luxor Governorate, Egypt
After our busy day tour to Abu Simbel, we had an 8am departure in a felucca boat. This was a leisurely sail up the Nile. Young boys would hitch a ride on surfboards and sing for tips. And, not to miss an opportunity, they had for sale various items such as jewellery. The weather was still cool enough (low 30’s) for it to be enjoyable. 
Of course, our boat broke down. So we did have to wait for another boat to tow us back. We then went exploring to the local markets in town with another couple. This was interesting - and more of a local market (fruit and veges, pharmacy’s, toys, school supplies etc) - and we stood out like sore thumbs here! So many stares!! The rest of the day was for relaxing - as soon as the Contiki group returned from Abu Simbel (they went by road so a long day) we set sail back down the Nile. Basically, this was a trip in reverse but those on 3/4 night itineraries had to fit in everything we have already done plus what we are now doing. Hence we stopped in Kom Ombo - the others did the temple tour and Crocodile Museum but we just leisurely shopped and had a few drinks overlooking the town.  
It was another Egyptian themed night , so we did dress up again - but not many did this time. The weather tonight was sensational - almost refreshing with a coolish breeze (relatively speaking anyway - it was probably still 30 degrees). Tonight was party night for Contiki - they were up until about 3.30am!
Our final full day on the boat we were still sailing, so we enjoyed a sleep in and late breakfast. The sights and sounds as we sail down the Nile was fascinating. As we neared Esna and the lock, the small boats again appeared and the shopping began! It was just hilarious!! The speed that the water raises/lowers in the lock is impressive.
Before too long, we reached Luxor again - our final destination on the boat. We had already seen much of what Luxor has to offer but the other groups set off to see those things. We went to see Luxor Temple (and then back on the boat for dinner (on the way back there was a gathering with many young people with guns and one fired a shot with a sawn off shotgun into the air beside us - it certainly is different here!) and then straight off to see Karnak Temple (again) but this time for the Sound and Light show. Still so hot at 8pm at 37 degrees. And a decent walk to the site! The show was meant to be somewhat educational but because of the heat and the amount of walking, we struggled to really enjoy it. Most of the major temples have a Sound and Light show at night. The drive back at night was interesting - traffic is horrendous here - and somewhat amusingly cars do not put headlights on at night (it is considered rude). We almost collided with a horse and buggy at one stage (and a multitude of cars too). A car without dents here seems to be a rarity. 
And then, the following morning, it was time to disembark the boat. We had an early departure of 6.30am and this time we had an armed security guard accompany us on the bus. Even our boat had an armed security guard near the doors. Visible guns are just everywhere, and at every site we have to go through body scanners - sometimes more than one scanner. 
As we had some time before our afternoon flight, we drove to Denderas Temple (a 2 hour journey). It is unique and one of the best preserved temple complexes of ancient Egypt. 
Hathor was among the most important and popular deities in ancient Egypt. She was associated with music, joy, dance and motherhood; she was also known as the lady of the sky. Her main cult center was at Dendera where one of the best-preserved temples in Egypt stands today. The entrance of the temple, with six massive columns surmounted with the head of Hathor, is considered among the most beautiful monuments in Egypt. Sistrums (a musical instrument) closely associated with the goddess, frame her head.
The temple of Dendera dates back to the Ptolemaic Period, although evidence points to older structures once existing on the site, dating as far back as king Pepy I, from the Old Kingdom. Among the temple’s most notable features are astronomical engravings on its ceiling.
The back wall of the temple has a large engraving on Cleopatra. There were 7 Cleopatra’s and many temples have engravings of one of them, and archaeologists are not sure which one it may be for certain. However here at Dendera they are certain it is the famous Cleopatra (Cleopatra VII) due to her son Caesarion standing next to her (depicting her making him King - although he was executed at age 17). His father was Julius Caesar. 
Anyway, this temple was extremely impressive, and still has its roof - which we could walk on. 
As there is always other tour groups at these locations - and often the same ones (there is a common route to follow), we were walking out with a Trafalgar group. One American woman in that group started yelling and screaming at another woman over her behavior, that she wasn’t shopping properly, and her attitude - it was just awful. No idea what that was about, but the woman was wildly inappropriate!! We all felt we should have intervened but we were just too shocked!! Mind you, the woman’s husband didn’t say anything either! 
We drove the couple of hours back to Luxor International Airport for our flight back to Cairo. The traffic and driving was just manic and we were surprised that we made it without incident as there were a few near misses. There isn’t much at Luxor Airport. The usual double security, a prayer room, a smoking room and a place that sold potato chips and 2 minute noodles. The men in the smoking room preferred to leave the doors open to the terminal - in fact, they smoked in the doorway - they really didn’t care about their smoke going everywhere. As expected, the Trafalgar group were there too including the woman who was screaming and the woman who was screamed at. 
Cairo Airport, for our second arrival, was just as chaotic as last time. We waited 90 minutes for our bags to arrive on the carousel, and then we were on our way back to our hotel in Cairo for our final 3 nights on the tour.
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