It was time to leave Tokyo after 4 nights to head to Hakone. Hakone is one of Japan’s most famous hot spring resorts, full of traditional ryokans (traditional Japanese Inn) and onsens (hot springs), and whilst it is possible to do Hakone on a day trip, there is a lot to see there plus we really wanted the ryokan/onsen experience!
There is a common transport loop there that is bundled up into a Hakone Freepass ticket. It’s not really free at about $65 but I guess once you pay for it, everything is free!
So we had Hakone Freepass tickets plus also got upgrade tickets to the Romancecar to get to Hakone to ensure that we all had allocated seats together. We had bought the online freepass tickets which gave us a little bit of grief at the train station as it’s a live QR code that needs data access to refresh, and Joan’s phone will not connect to data for some reason! So at the last minute she had to purchase another pass so she had a paper ticket! Anyway, we made it onto the train for a relaxing 90 minute comfortable journey through the Japanese countryside.
When reaching Hakone, we changed trains to a smaller one for a 30 minute scenic journey. This is one of Japan’s few mountain railways. In order to climb the mountain inclines, the train zigzags up the slopes using the switchback method. Switchback takes place at 3 locations, at which the conductor and driver switch positions. It was also very crowded, so Tim and I stood sandwiched between others for the entire journey.
And then we arrived at Kowakidani Station. After a somewhat treacherous walk down the hill with our luggage, we found our traditional Japanese Ryoken. Japan is very regimented and we have read that early check in will never be allowed - even if there are ready rooms. It’s 3pm always! Anyway, this suited us because whilst the fantastic sunny skies of the last few days have ended, the day is at least clear whilst cloudy. Rain is expected tomorrow, so we wanted to see Mount Fuji whilst still possible. Our original plan was to see it tomorrow - but the weather forecast changed our minds!
Mount Fuji is an active stratovolcano with a summit elevation of 3,776.24 m. It is the tallest mountain in Japan, the second-highest volcano located on an island in Asia (after Mount Kerinci on the Indonesianisland of Sumatra), and seventh-highest peak of an island on Earth. Mount Fuji last erupted from 1707 to 1708. Mount Fuji's exceptionally symmetrical cone, which is covered in snow for about five months of the year, is commonly used as a cultural icon of Japan and is frequently depicted in art and photography.
So, off we went on the Hakone Loop, very keen to see this mountain. It started with a train trip to Gora, a cable car and 2 ropeway trips. There were huge lines for each of these (about an hour each). We saw spectacular views of Mt Fuji on the way (it really is an impressive sight!) and the geothermal steam arising from the ground - along with sulfur smells like rotten egg gas.
The crowds were immense though - obviously everyone had the same idea! We then boarded the pirate ship for a cruise along Lake Ashi to board the final bus at Motohakone-ko back to our Ryokan. There were hundreds of people on this line. We had to wait in line most 2 hours.
Eventually, we were allowed on a bus (the first bus that would let any of us on in 90 minutes) at this point we were happy to get on any bus that would get us within walking distance to our hotel), and we followed the route on maps but then the bus did not go to our hotel but to Goya station (which is not too far), but as the train was waiting when we arrived - we missed it - meaning we had another 30 minutes to wait. Joining the taxi queue, eventually a group in front of us left and after conversing with the driver, promised to be back in 10 minutes for us. There are not many taxis in Hakone. The sight of that taxi returning was a huge relief and we were finally back at the hotel at 6.45pm.
We were shown to our rooms. They are a bit dated but huge, and we have our own onsens- ours being on a little balcony.
We went straight in, it was about 40 degrees and heavenly, and then dressed in our Japanese Yukata for dinner - so comfortable! There are public onsens here also and they look lovely too. There is one for women, and one for men - although you do need to be naked. We decided to just use our private one today!
The 4 of us had our own little room for dinner, and whilst some of us (mainly me) were not sure how much of this we would be able to eat, it was actually quite delicious. It began with a cheese fondue, and then many courses later, we cooked our beef on a little burner. Finally, icecream! It was a lovely dinner, and the beers were plentiful.
We then had a full day to enjoy in Hakone. Now, there is very little flexibility in this hotel, but as I don’t love fish I had let them know in advance. Consequently, the chef prepared me sausages, omelet and hash browns for breakfast which was excellent and Tim had a Japanese breakfast which he really didn’t enjoy (and he is the foodie!). We asked if all 4 of us could have what I had tomorrow morning - but no! They only offer Japanese breakfasts was the response!
It was raining ever so slightly, so after a morning onsen (soooo good!) Tim and I figured we may as well go sightseeing - doing the loop again but in reverse and taking some time to see some of the things along the way. The Tozan Hakone bus stop is out the front of our ryokan, this bus was on time - and there were even seats on it. Back in Motohakone-ko, the rain was a bit more annoying, so we abandoned plans of a walk around the lake.
Back on the pirate ship, we again enjoyed a leisurely cruise back to Togendai-ko. It’s a very picturesque lake.
Lake Ashi, also referred to as Hakone Lake or Ashinoko Lake, is a scenic a crater lake that lies along the southwest wall of the caldera of Mount Hakone, a complex volcano that last erupted in 1170 CE at Ōwakudani. The lake is known for its views of Mount Fuji, its numerous hot springs, historical sites, and ryokan. Several of the boats are inspired by the design of sailing warships (commonly referred to as Pirate Ships).
On the way back on the rope way, we spent some time at Owakudani. Owakudani is one of most famous viewpoints in Hakone, where you can observe the intense volcanic activity from up close. It is said that this place came to be thanks to a phreatic eruption and pyroclastic flow that occurred almost 3000 years ago. The peculiar sulfur smell that spreads throughout the area was the reason behind its second name from the past, Jigokudani (Hell Valley). One of the local specialties is the “black eggs”, whose main trait is in the shells that turn black due to a chemical reaction with geothermal energy and volcanic gas. This is a rare phenomenon - and only happens here!
This area was closed for some time in 2015 due to volcanic activity. We visited the Geothermal Museum here which explains how the onsens get their hot water. We also tried the black eggs. Said to add 7 years onto your life, who knows, but at any rate, they were fresh, warm and tasty.
Next on to Chokoku-no-Mori Station, we hopped off the train into a cutesy little village with eclectic little cafes. We called into one called Woody Cafe - an odd little place with stones covering the floors and made of wood - also decorated with characters from Toy Story. It could only fit about 12 people in it, but was a good stop for lunch and a couple of beers.
And then just up the road was the Hakone Open Air Museum. It attempts to create a harmonic balance of nature and art by exhibiting various sculptures on its grounds in combination with views of the surrounding valley and mountains. It’s a beautiful place with some interesting exhibits. Whilst it was lightly raining during our visit, it was still a very picturesque and lovely place to wander around.
All in all - a great day. Relatively relaxing with easy access to things, it was quiet in terms of passengers on transport - so no waiting. Obviously the bit of rain, and cloud covering Mt Fuji, kept everyone away! We were hence glad that we had swapped our days around and saw My Fuji yesterday - even if the crowds (possibly all doing the same thing) overwhelmed the transport options!
We enjoyed some relaxation time for the afternoon at our ryokan, Tim and I visited one of the private onsens here (there are 3 - you just lock the door and it’s all yours!) and another traditional dinner at the restaurant. I didn’t enjoy this meal quite so much, but you have to admire the incredible presentation that goes into every course.
We’ve enjoyed our time here in Hakone. Luckily we have seen the majestic Mt Fuji, and seen other things in the area. We’ve now experienced a traditional Japanese hotel, onsen and meals. But it’s now time to head to our next destination!
Rachel
2024-04-04
Fabulous photos -wow it’s so cool Bec. Can you fit an Onsen in the caravan 😜
beco70
2024-04-04
I don’t think so Rach but I wish we could x