The local agents in Cuba are very organised, it is just that we aren’t really sure what’s going on sometimes. But it all works out in the end.
As an example, my original itinerary had an approximate pick up time today of 8am, but to be confirmed. Just in case, in the absence of further information, we were ready at 7.30. But it turned out to be 9am. Ok - it’s Cuba!
We began the journey by driving east along the picturesque road towards the historic Sugar Mill valley, the site of the former sugar plantations, which are Cuba’s link to the slave trade within the Caribbean at the time. The first stop was where we saw the old plantation houses and ghostly tower of Manaca Iznaga and had a great panoramic view of the area. Our guide also gave us some information on the arrival of the Spanish after Colombus, the war between Spain and America in the fight for Cuba - which America won leading Cuba to be under the control of America. Of course, this ended in more recent history with the revolution and the failed invasion of Cuba at the Bay of Pigs.
Which was somewhat embarrassing for JFK and the US at the time so they cut all trade links with Cuba and convinced many other countries to do the same. Cuban history is fascinating, I cannot do it justice here.
At the far west of the island (beyond our itinerary) is Guantanamo Bay with the US naval base which has its own history. President Obama tried to have this shut down but failed in cabinet. A lease for the area was signed in about 1920 with no end date. Cubans do not want it there, and many consider the agreement to be illegal. The US continue to pay the meager annual rent, however Cubans have never cashed them. It is rumored that Fidel Castro had them in his office top drawer.
We then took the road that climbs into the Escambray Mountains, an area of outstanding natural beauty, spectacular views and certainly a scenic drive. We then continued deeper into the mountains and passed by simple farmhouses surrounded by sub-tropical vegetation and tall Royal Palms. Our journey continued through the mountains and past numerous small rural villages which were fascinating. It felt that we were in an old Western film. We then reached Santa Clara, a city of major historical significance. We visited “Tren Blindado” the train that was attacked by Che Guevara and the turning point in the Cuban Revolution, as well as the final resting place of Che Guevara at the very symbolic Che Mausoleum. We also visited a museum dedicated to his life before we went for lunch in the city.
Economically, many countries have economic downturns, recessions or depressions - but Cuba refer to theirs (in 1991-1994) as their “special period”. A package of extreme austerity measures reinforced widespread rationing and made acute shortages a part of everyday life. In three years, the average Cuban lost 1/3 of their body weight and had meat eradicated from their diet. This communal belt tightening still characterises the Cuban way of life now.
It may now seem inappropriate to speak of our next meal but lunch was at a nice restaurant in the city - with a huge buffet.
After lunch, it was a long drive back to Havana which took several hours. I must say - we were both a bit disturbed to be traveling such long kilometers at 110km/hr without seatbelts. We live to tell the tale but our driver was amazing. He clearly knows the road very well - as from time to time he would slow down for no apparent reason and then the road would be awful. Any other inexperienced driver would not have had a clue.
Up until now we have stayed at hotels in Cuba which are government run. On our final night, we were booked into a hostal which is privately owner accommodation right in Havana’s Old Town and just a block from Plaza Vieja. The building was just gorgeous and our room was on the 3rd floor with its own bathroom. We went searching for internet but this was impossible. We could pick up signal at a couple of locations but had no means to access it without a card. The best we could hope for is to find one on the black market we were told - as the government office that sells them is now closed.
So frustrating. In the end, having resigned ourselves to having no internet access, we had a few drinks at a couple of local places including an old haunt of Hemingways.
We decided to splurge for dinner and head to the best place in town - in a private paladar. This was a gorgeous building and we had an exceptional meal with a violinist and they made excellent mojitos! All up, about 65 CUC (and US $).
We then bought a painting for home and went to a cool bar with old American paraphernalia for a mojito. This was a very busy place and no wonder with great staff, music and vibe. When we returned to our hostal there was pumping loud music coming from somewhere close. It was basically like trying to sleep in a nightclub. At 1am we had had enough and Tim located the source of the noise - some guy had a bicycle with a trailer with large speakers and the streets were filled with people just wandering about. Omg we both wished we were back at the flash hotel we had started the trip at!
I pulled my luggage apart to find the Qantas earplugs from our long haul flight over - unfortunately Tim had thrown his away.
My earplugs worked a treat and when the music stopped at about 2am - Tim was only disturbed by constant barking dogs.
We had an early pick up for the airport at 7.30am so had breakfast supplied at 7am. It was basic but ok. By now, my welts from the bed bugs seem to be spreading and I need a pharmacist - something that the average tourist in Cuba could not easily find. Tim thinks I look like an ice addict. I am starting to wonder if things are going to start hatching out of me shortly. There are even some on my face and an earlobe - although in truth I suspect I’m having an allergic reaction to these disgusting bites, but it’s driving me crazy.
I was relieved to get to the airport to find our flight was still scheduled. Having a cancelled flight here would be a nightmare! We have very much enjoyed Cuba as it really is amazing but are now looking forward to Mexico with phone coverage, WiFi, credit cards that work, a good nights sleep, a luxury resort , guacamole, a level of organization, shops and a pharmacy! The latter being my number 1 focus.
We have had an amazing time but we miss home and happy to be heading back!
Suey
2018-04-18
Loved this post, except for the bed bugs!!!