Expecting to leave early, I lingered a little more, though my bags were all packed and ready. This family that has been so good to me and the beautiful shanti of the beach made it hard to leave, also some apprehension about riding solo into the heart of Karnataka and the real hard core India.

So I dawdled until noon, checking e-mails, making sure Rocinante was in good working order, stocking up on water and cigarettes, and generally putting off the inevitable . Had my usual breakfast and gave out e-mail addresses to the people I had been spending time with there at Palolem. Goa is not the real India, they all tell me, and I believe.

Choosing to leave on a sunday had it's practical application as well, there would be less traffic, and probably the gates at the Karnatakan border would be shut as well.

Finally, bidding a fond adieu to another beautiful place that had won my heart, I fired up my trusty steed and headed off into the unknown darkness of "real" India.