Drove to Kemi, 20 km east of Swedish border, on the Baltic. What a contrast to when we had camped on the Swedish side of the Baltic in icy conditions on June 17th. Glorious warm sunshine. Probably saw our last reindeer, although roadside signs still warn us to watch out for them.

Drove along the sea edge to Oulo and stopped for coffee at the market square on the sea front . Said "Good bye" to Rob and Robyn, who are off to travel to Iceland. We will see them again in 5 weeks.

Then we explored the covered markets - what a deli! Bought "smoked" salmon, reindeer, cheese and black bread. Then had a wonderful lunch of mixed cooked meats, cooked small whole fish (?sardines), fried potatoes and vegetables, at the outdoor market.

Drove on to Kajaani, an important centre for tar transportation (in the 19th century, this region produced more tar than anywhere in the world.) Climbed around the old castle ruins, in the middle of the river and supporting the road bridge! Then looked at the tar boat channel and the old wooden church, Finnish neo-Gothic in style. Watched a group of female Art? Drama students doing a "presentation" on the river bank and in the church yard, in flowing blue and white robes (Finnish colours??)

Went next to the Old Church of Paltamo at Paltaniemi, a 300 year old wood "pictorial" church and separate bell tower with amazing biblical paintings on the walls and ceilings, truly a special place. The paintings show the Creation, through the Old Testament to the suffering of Christ. The best preserved - the Last Judgement - had been covered up, as it was thought to be too distressing to the congregation! (Bliss of the children of God and the pains of Hell).

Camped beside a lake in the forest. Almost 4 wheel driving as we were on skidoo tracks in the sand. Beautiful reflections in the lake.