Well, we found out upon our arrival to the Big Island that our carefully planned counter-clockwise route was the WRONG WAY to cycle around the island. Why? Prevailing winds and road grades would not be in our favor, but what is the fun of vacation without a little extra challenge...right?
Heading south out of Kona, we definitely were going through a period of temperature adjustment, partly because we are absolutely incapable of getting an early start while
cycle touring, so beating the heat of the day just isn't an option for us
. I'm pretty sure we sweated more in our first day--no, first hour--of riding than we perspirated in ten weeks around Iceland!
We were also going through a bit of "attention adjustment," for lack of a better term. In Iceland, there were so many European cycle tourers that no one gave us a second glance (even when we were hoping they would). In contrast, here in Hawaii, riding a bicycle apparently exposes you to lots of unsolicited advice. While it was usually given in a spirit of aloha, some of it was welcomed while most of it was just plain condescending, especially when coming from non-cyclists. For example, a guy standing on the sidewalk next to us as we were stopped at a traffic light told us to wear sunscreen. What a brilliant idea! I never would have thought of that on my own...
Shortly thereafter, a couple of ladies screamed at us to "ride on the sidewalk" as they passed by. When they got stopped behind a bus and I caught up to them, I did not hesitate to take the rare opportunity to get to actually talk to the source of harrassment
. As politely as I could muster, I informed them that cyclists are supposed to ride on the road and not the sidewalk, which was quite crowded with pedestrians. One woman responded that we should at least ride down the center stripes so she didn't have to go into the oncoming lane to pass us. The other stupidhead chimed in, "We ride on the sidewalk!" Realizing I was simply not going to get through to them, I left it at "Well, you are doing the wrong thing and breaking the law" and started riding again. As they pulled ahead, they told me that I was a certain series of words not fit for repeating here, quite ironcially just as they zoomed by a road sign with a bicycle that stated "share the road." Apparently, living in tropical paradise doesn't make you immune to road rage.
Other nuggets of wisdom focused on the quantity of luggage hanging off of our bikes. I will be the first to admit that we are not light packers, but one woman detained us in a parking lot interrogate us about how we could possibly need that much stuff
. Before I could tell her to mind her own business, she continued on to inform is that she is a local cyclist (but without all that pesky weight) and to be prepared because the upcoming stretch of road is hot and windy, but it could rain, and there is no food, water, or shelter for the next fifty miles. I just smiled while gently patting one of my panniers. Gee, I wonder what we could possibly have in all of those bags... Then another one of our lovely acquaintences was so bothered by our gear that he told us not once, but twice, that we should ride around the island with nothing but bathing suits. When I explained that much the bulk was for camping, he suggested that we just stay at B&Bs instead. Too bad he didn't offer to fund his travel advice as well...
Set out on forewarned "dangerous highway," we eventually did, but not very far since we are on our honeymoon after all (and just perhaps, we are not in the best shape for long distance riding). Our first stop was Kealakekua Bay, historically famous for being the place where Captain Cook was killed, although I imagine it's overall beauty and snorkeling opportunities are what really draw in the crowds
. We enjoyed some relaxation at a romantic Bali-style open air cottage located in the funky residential community near the water's edge. We didn't actually snorkel in the must-see bay as local conditions were much better at nearby Pu'uhonua O Honaunau, also known as Place of Refuge. After a thorough exploration of the reef, we wandered through the sacred grounds of ali'i (Hawaiian royalty) and a neighboring complex where priests forgave violators of the kapu (law) system, thereby creating a refuge for them if they were successful in making the arduous journey to get there.
Our next accomodation was even more unique and romantic in a cozy (read: close-quarters) sort of way. Part of the Lova Lava Land Eco-resort, we spent a surprisingly restfull night in Daisy the Daydream, a super-cute VW bus! An added bonus was that as the only guests, it was essentially our own private resort in the middle of an arid lava field in a non-touristy region of the island called Ka'u, a nice contrast from Kailua-Kona for sure!
After a collaborative breakfast with the caretakers/eco-interns in the outdoor kitchen, we got an early start (for us) in anticipation of a long day ahead
. Before we could even begin the 4500 feet of elevation gain to get to Hawai'i Volcanoes NP, we had to first descend from our comfortable perch at about 1500 feet to sea level as we rounded the most southern tip of the United States. In the most southern town in the US, we got some quality fuel at the most southern bakery in the US in the form of malasadas. These are suspiciously similar to donuts, but without a hole, and Portuguese in orgin. Nonetheless, I didn't mind having an excuse to try a "new food," an opportunity created due to modern day Hawaiians staying connected with their diverse cultural influences and roots.
We knew we had nothing but uphill ahead of us after visiting a beach as black as midnight called Punalu'u. Although we didn't have time to enjoy sitting on the beach (what we would soon discover to be a recurring theme for us in Hawai'i), we did appreciate the main attraction of observing a few green sea turtles resting and "sunbathing" on the beach
. This behavior is unique to Hawai'i's population as sea turtles typically only leave the ocean to nest.
The rest of the day was slow going and each 1000 feet of elevation that we tracked felt like both victory and defeat. Even though it was a headwind, we welcomed any form of air circulation and felt grateful for overcast skies despite putting a damper on an already monotonously unexciting rocky scrubby landscape. In the late afternoon, we considered setting up camp at a roadside coffee stand, but the combo of calories and caffeine perked us up enough to push on. The entrance sign for Hawai'i Volcanoes was a sweet sight and we rolled in to the free campground just before sunset. All was well until we found out that the showers were "temporarily" closed. We were literally caked with layers of sunscreen, sweat, and road grime and there was no way we were going to pollute our double sleeping bag with that, at least this early in the trip. Desperate times call for desperate measures, so we hauled a bucket of tap water and our squeezey water bottles into a sparse grove of eucalyptus trees and created our own showerheads for each other. Needless to say, we slept soundly (and relatively cleanly) that night!
Cycling Counter-Clockwise, aka "the wrong way"
Sunday, July 22, 2012
Ocean View, Hawaii, United States
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Comments

2025-02-08
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Andres
2012-08-28
I'm glad you two are enjoying the wonderful world for us all. Take care.
ae.
Jen
2012-08-28
Hah! Those showers in the Park have suspiciously been "temporarily" closed for over a year now, as that's the same predicament I found myself in last summer! (However, I had not biked my way to the Park..)
Tessie
2012-08-28
Really enjoyed your travel commentary. I stayed in a B&B overlooking Capt Cook's bay once and it was very beautiful.. Those "helpful" tips given to you be concerned Hawwaiins were great. keep letting us know what you are up to.
carlos
2012-09-04
when I was in Kauai, the very first day I was there two local crazies (non-native) tried to beat me up...after that day my entire trip was smooth and relaxed
Ingrid
2012-09-12
What an awesome way to start your married life together!
You two are truly meant for each other.