Dear all,
The vagaries of the international football calendar means my travel plans for 2015 were a bit bottom heavy
. That is to say my planned holidays fall mainly in the latter half of the year. There have been a couple of matches in Dublin and then nothing, until now. From hereon I have at least a couple of holidays every month, starting with this visit to South Portugal.
The tiny British colony of Gibraltar was granted membership of UEFA three years ago. And in their first qualifying tournament for Euro 2016, found themselves drawn in Ireland's group. However, there isn’t a UEFA-standard stadium in Gibraltar itself to host matches. Staging their games in Spain was obviously a non-starter, and at one point the Gibraltar FA considered playing home ties at Craven Cottage, Fulham. In the end, they settled on Faro as their home from home. So off to the Algarve we went.
By the time I arrived at Faro Airport and taxied straight to my hotel (Sol Algarve, chalet rooms overlooking a fountained courtyard, good choice) it’s about 11pm on Thursday night
. But I drop off my bags and head straight to Piper’s Irish Bar, just three minutes away, where Tommy Feely, a legend amongst Ireland supporters and a Zambian orphanage cohort, is celebrating his 60th birthday with a 'little’ drinks get together. It would be rude not to turn up. The place is packed out and, only intending to stay for one or two, I somehow only leave at around 2:30am. Free flowing drink engenders fierce and frank discussion and debate, that’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it…
I awake mid-morning on Friday and go forth to explore Faro. For sure the blazing sunshine – but not particularly humid, unlike Brussels last week – casts an especially positive glow on the place but Faro seems a really pretty town. All mosaic pavements and cobbled roads in open squares and narrow pedestrian streets. But Faro is not much of a destination for holiday makers due to its lack of suitable beaches. So much so that this is actually the off season for Faro, not until the students at the nearby university return will it be swinging again
. Because of this, many Irish fans were staying in Albufeira instead. Many were there for a week, bussing in to Faro for Gibraltar vs. Ireland as the climax to their holidays. By then, the outside bars and cafes were hopping with the estimated 2,000-3,000 Ireland supporters who journeyed over
The Estádio Algarve is about 8km from Faro city centre. Built as a venue for Euro 2004, it has been woefully underused since then (for football at least). So authorities were delighted Gibraltar deigned to play here. Shuttle buses were running from the Faro bus centre and we were at the stadium in less than 20 minutes. It’s a fabulous ground, with banks of steep stands and curved roofs designed to look like the sails of the local fishing boats. We found ourselves sharing a stand with the 500 or so "home" fans from Gibraltar. For them, it really is about taking part, about showing they are there and continue to exist. Respect is due to this hardy bunch for braving a seven hour round trip from Gibraltar to watch their team
. Knowing full well they were pretty much guaranteed to lose, and lose heavily.
Well, I say guaranteed to lose. For a while it didn’t look that way. Ireland huffed and puffed, but could not make the breakthrough against a determined Gibraltan side vastly improved since their 7-0 thumping in Dublin last October. Fears of a result to rival the infamy of Liechtenstein 1995 were eventually assuaged by a Cyrus Christie toe-poke midway through the first half. After the break, Robbie Keane nabbed a brace (including a penalty) and Shane Long scored a great header to round off a 4-0 win. A scoreline that frankly flattered Ireland. For much of the game Gibraltar looked the equal of the boys in green and only a couple of smart saves from Shay Given preserved the Irish cleansheet. Still, it’s a win and that, coupled with Scotland’s defeat to Georgia earlier in the day means Ireland are once again in Euro 2016 qualifying contention.
Back in Faro after the match, I went seeking a bite to eat before meeting up with everyone for a drink
. Not as easy a task as you would imagine, Thursday night we struggled to find anywhere open for a post-pub nourishment. This time I found a Japanese restaurant still serving just up the road from my hotel. Curiously named Fukushima (after the area with the dodgy nuclear plant affected by the 2011 earthquake?) it was completely empty and staffed entirely by Chinese. Over a shrimp tempura and pork bowl, I managed to get chatting to one of the Chinese staff who happened to speak a bit of Cantonese. They were all from Harbin and were students studying in Portugal. Afterwards I returned to Piper’s, but this time I exercised great restrain and stayed for only one or two.
When the Euro 2016 fixtures were announced, I noted that Spain would be facing Slovakia on the Saturday after Ireland’s adventures in the Algarve. If the Spanish staged their match in somewhere south like Seville, going to that game would be an entirely doable proposition and I booked my flights accordingly. Sadly Spain spoiled it all by scheduling the game in Gijon on the north coast. The plan was in tatters.
Still, staying an extra day in the Algarve wasn’t exactly a great hardship, so I made the most of it. Saturday morning I went to the piers by the old Faro city walls and did a boat cruise around the wetlands and islands off the Faro coast. A mildly diverting trip, but of greater interest to the French ornithologists on my boat. The Algarve is a stopping point for many migrating birds flying north or south, consequently the area is a must visit for bird watchers everywhere. It didn’t help that it was cloudy and the temperature had dropped significantly. At one point there was even a slight drizzle, rendering back on mainland many a cobbled street a slippery slope.
On the bus to the match on Friday, we passed an impressive looking shopping mall on the way to and from the stadium. And so on Saturday afternoon I took a short taxi ride out to the Forum Algarve. An impressive mall built around a colonial courtyard with a waterfall feature. I went to stock up on local chocolate at the supermarket, but all the usual international brands were here as well as a multiplex cinema and a medical centre. There’s even a Christiano Ronaldo CR7 Official Shop here, flogging all manner of tat devoted to the best player in the world/ vainglorious show pony (delete according to taste), it even sells discounted tickets to his museum. Slightly pointless given that it’s actually in Madeira.
In the early evening, I return again to Piper’s to meet friends. Dubs to a man, they were elated at Dublin’s victory over Mayo in the All-Ireland semi-finals. We make our way to the Vasco de Gama restaurant for a night of convivial company, flowing alcohol, leisurely dining and rubbish photos taken by clueless waiters unable to grasp the concept of holding your hand still whilst pressing the shutter button or not blocking the lens with your fingers. Still, it didn’t detract from a great meal at bargain prices – full-sized T-bone steaks at €12! – Indeed you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere that offered better value eats than Faro. The drinking continued at bars by the marina, many of them seemingly putting on Irish music for our benefit. Despite what you might think, I’m really not a big drinker and I made my departure just after midnight. I planned on getting a late bite at Alef Burger Bar. The number one ranked place to eat in Faro according to Trip Advisor and open until 2am… Except they chose to close early tonight, the inconsiderate sods.
Didn’t do a lot on Sunday, just a leisurely stroll around the old town after getting up late. Had a slow-cooked (or maybe it was just poor service?) swordfish lunch at a restaurant in the cathedral square. Spent the rest of day the sitting in a café writing this blog before grabbing a last bifana (pork chop in a toasted bun, the Portuguese fast food that I’ve been living off during my stay) and flying home.
So there you have it. This visit to Faro encapsulates why I devote so much time and energy (and money) following the Republic of Ireland football team. A chance to visit foreign climbs, try out some great food, sample some different beer, in the company of like-minded folk. Topped off with a win for the Irish team. Ireland are back in the hunt for Euro 2016 qualification and victory against Georgia in Dublin on Monday (hopefully) will set up a tense climax of a last round of matches in October; at home against World Champions Germany, followed by a final showdown against Poland in Warsaw. Flights and hotels for the Polish capital were booked nearly a year ago. Really looking forward to this now.
Adeus
Cathal
Faro Away
Sunday, September 06, 2015
Faro, Algarve, Portugal
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