Shanghai, Shanghai, ChinaEXPLORING THE PULLMAN SKYWAY HOTEL AND SURROUNDS
Our First Impressions of the Pullman Skyway Hotel
There was no doubt about it. The Pullman Skyway Hotel was indeed a very beautiful hotel. Our room was generously sized, luxuriously furnished and provided every possible convenience. The views however were not great, looking straight out onto towering high rise apartments. But then again, this was Shanghai. One of the largest and most densely populated cities in the world, it boasts a staggering population of just over 26 million - over a million more than the entire population of our home country of Australia.
The overall design of the hotel is quite an architectural feat. One of the magnificent modern buildings which typify Shanghai's gorgeous skyline, the hotel is commonly referred to as "The Bottle Opener". And you can well see why. The elegant curved glass 52-storey landmark building is topped by what looks like a curious hollow; from a distance making it look every bit like a bottle opener in shape.
Inside the hotel is truly opulent. A splendid foyer, majestic marble stairways, intricately carved granite lift well architraves, gorgeous chandeliers and artistic topiary gardens alongside the downstairs conservatory styled bar area are only topped off by the lavish Club Lounge with its polished cream and black marble tiles and its featured elegant white grand piano.
Apart from the usual amenities such as a gym and pool etc, the hotel boasts a number of restaurants ranging from the cafe styled Lakeside Restaurant to the new Gingembre 15 fine dining room.
Being such devotees of the Shanghai Sofitel Hyland Hotel, we were interested to see how the two hotels compared. The comparison was not at all easy or straightforward. Both Accor owned hotels are very good, each having its own distinct ambiance and "personality".
Our first impressions were that the older Sofitel had a more homely, friendly feel but perhaps that was because it was so familiar to us, it actually felt like being "home". On the other hand the newer Pullman was much more impressive; grand in every way and almost "over the top". But it was undeniably magnificent. The two hotels compared favourably with each other in price; both around AUS $220.00 per night for Club Room; good value for Club accommodation. It certainly pays to be a member of Club Accor Hotels and to keep an eye out for for specials. And to know there is around a 35% discount for early bookings.
Our First Day - Our Breakfast Experience
Tired after a long day's travel from Khabarovsk in southern Siberia to Shanghai via Seoul the previous day, we decided on having a very relaxed start. We had the choice of taking breakfast in the Club lounge or the buffet in the Lakeside Restaurant. Buffet breakfasts are a special treat for us when we are away and having a much larger variety of food, we opted for the Lakeside.
At 9.00 am, we had to agree that it was relatively late to arrive for breakfast. The buffet food however looked tired, having a somewhat "picked over appearance". And none of the food was being replaced when it ran out. The large dining room was pleasant enough but it was noisy and hard to find a quiet table for two. Having said that, the food was fine but it certainly was more like a cafeteria environment.
True to his word, the young French manager we had met the evening before found us, asking if we were comfortable and happy with our breakfast. "It is always very busy in this restaurant" he apologised. "Although the variety of food is much more extensive here, you may be happier with dining in the Club Lounge. We still have a good selection of food and it is quieter, and much more relaxed."
We got the message. The next day we would definitely dine in the Club Lounge.
Exploring the Surrounds
We always treat our stays in Shanghai as an opportunity for rest and relaxation, rather than any sort of sightseeing exercise. Like all travellers, we are always pretty well exhausted by the time we are on our home leg of our trip and find Shanghai a convenient, if now very familiar stopover.
The Pullman Skyway Hotel is advertised as being "conveniently located to most of Shanghai's places of interest; walking distance to major shopping malls and just opposite Metro Line 9". Geographically, the hotel is centrally located but it is certainly not within walking distance of anything interesting.
Our first impressions of the location were disappointing. It was close to shopping centres but the shops were very ordinary and it was quite a nightmare to get there, having to cross several wide heavily congested roads.
It was of course not surprising. The hotel is located in the heart of the business district. But it was a boring area and for us, not a district where we could contemplate going for a quiet stroll.
On the other hand, the Sofitel Hyland Shanghai Hotel where we usually stay is located right on Shanghai's famous Nanjing Dong Lu (East Nanjing Mall) and whilst it is undeniably touristy and busy, it is a pleasant place for a walk at any time of the day and not that far from the famous Bund area overlooking the gorgeous buildings of Pudong on the other side of the Huang Pu River. And whilst Nanjing Dong Lu's shops are touristy and not that cheap, they are good fun. Furthermore, the mall area oozes with a 24 hour lively ambiance.
In reality our disappointing expedition to the shopping mall suited us perfectly. We had nothing we wanted to to buy and anyway, it was a good excuse to return to the hotel and sit in the hotel foyer bar and lounge, enjoying a quiet gin and tonic while watching the Pullman Skyway Hotel world go by.
DAY TWO - AN EXPEDITION TO THE XINYANG "FAKE MARKETS", PUDONG
Our charming French manager was right. The breakfast ambiance in the Club Lounge was certainly a cut above the Lakeside Restaurant. Although it did not have anything like the selection of foods in the downstairs buffet, it had a reasonable choice and really everything we needed. Furthermore, enjoying our breakfast in the peaceful setting of the beautiful lounge with its fine views over Pudong was worth every bit of a smaller selection of food.
Our only mission for the day was a visit to the Xinyang Fashion and Gift Market in the Pudong District, famous for its huge complex of small shops and stalls specialising in fake designer goods.
In the past we had enjoyed shopping at the Taobao Markets in West Nanjing Road where Alan was in his element bargaining, especially for fake designer watches which he adores. Apparently these markets were closed by the government some years ago. It was a shame. Taobao definitely bore an impression of black market selling and covert deals, and where we had to usually bargain and buy goods in the stairwell or behind specially concealed walls in the shops. It had been fun although there were times when our sellers had to disappear quickly because of raids by the authorities which we gathered was the police.
The Xinyang markets are located near Century Park in Pudong, close to the Shanghai Technology and Science Museum and the Shanghai Pudong Expo Complex. They are a ten to fifteen minute taxi trip from the Pullman Skyway Hotel. The market is huge with a vast array of stores and stalls selling everything from handbags, shoes, clothing including tailor made suit making, watches and jewellery. "Designer labels" include well known brands such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Ralph Lauren. There are even fake Nike, New Balance and Adidas "branded" shoes.
It was mid cyclone season and true to form, our Shanghai morning greeted us with a torrential downpour. The hotel did provide umbrellas but after nearly losing one last time, we decided it would be too cumbersome to take with us, assuring ourselves that it was "just a shower" which would not last long. And we were right. Our only problem was that there were to be many such down pours during our expedition to the markets.
Like Taobao, there is no need to find your own way into the market complex. As soon as we alighted from our taxi, a young man came hurtling toward us offering to show us "the best shops with the very best deals". It sounds counter intuitive, but we have found through experience that it is as well to take the tout's advice. In another down pour we gladly followed him to the Xinyang markets, the entrance of which is not that easy to find. It seems that the touts are employed by a number of different sellers and we have found this co-operative system actually works very well for buyers as well.
We had visited these markets on a previous visit and although they did not quite compare with Taobao in the variety of goods for sale, they were still interesting and good fun. Bargaining is the way of life for these stall holders. We were advised years ago that we should begin with an offer of no more than 10% and certainly settle for no more than a seemingly crazy 30% of the asking price.
But it is not for me. I simply hate bargaining. It is not at all part of my psyche. In fact I would gladly give the seller more than he or she requested, just to get the frigg'n deal over and done with! Alan who is naturally in his element bargaining is always disgusted with my lack of form. And this day was no different with him ending up purchasing a number of goods on my behalf.
Alan must have literally dozens of fake designer watches at home, most of which are still in their original packaging. Our tout friend was most helpful taking us to several shops until Alan found and then after serious bargaining, bought several very classy looking "Patek Philippe" watches.
I really did need to buy some gifts. After all, Russian fridge magnets are not really classy presents, even if they are from the other side of the planet. During our last visit to Xinyang Markets, we had found an interesting large shop which specialised in fresh water pearls and some very unusual stone jewellery. It had a great selection of necklaces and bracelets at very reasonable prices. Unfortunately, we could not recall the name of the store. And ashamedly, we still can't remember it.
Our friend tried his hardest to find it for us, asking at least ten or so shop holders before we found it. I love freshwater pearls. I adore the lustre and also the often very odd pearl shapes. Even my pathetic attempt at bargaining was successful and we ended up buying several lovely necklaces at ridiculously cheap prices. But were they really pearls? Probably not but it didn't matter.
Our mission accomplished, it was time to leave. It is very easy to get lost in these markets and our friend insisted he would take us to the taxi stand. But to our dismay, it was not just raining but bucketing down and the taxi stand was at least 500 meters from the market place entrance.
Our lovely friend insisted on going back to bring us some umbrellas (yes, we should have taken some of the hotels ones). And in no time he had returned with two large brollies with which he sheltered us to the taxi stand. Even more kind was that he waited until a suitable taxi was available (not all taxis will take you to your hotel) and then ensured our driver would take us to the Pullman Skyway.
For us it was not surprising. We had seen time after time during our many travels to China, that the people are unbelievably honest. And this occasion was no exception. This act of kindness from a stranger (and a tout at that!) was greatly appreciated and more memorable for us than even our fun purchasing spree.
THE PULLMAN SKYWAY AND THE SOFITEL HYLAND SHANGHAI HOTELS - AND THE WINNER IS?
We enjoyed a very relaxed and pleasant evening of drinks and snack food at the Club Happy Hour (well actually Happy Two Hours). But then again, we always do!
For us, the Club Happy Hour is great value and very convenient, allowing us to drink whatever we wish and have enough food not to feel like dining out. And it's not as if we are trying to save by not going out to a restaurant. We often laugh that despite wanting to try the famous Shanghai restaurant "M on The Bund" for the last ten years or so, we have never done so. After Happy Hour and some snack food, we just never feel like it.
As we sat enjoying our drinks we discussed the two hotels and which one we most preferred. It was very difficult to come to a conclusion as they are so different - and both are excellent hotels. At the end of the day however we agreed that we did prefer the Sofitel. For some reason the Pullman despite its grandeur just didn't quite provide the same friendly ambiance and personal service as did the Sofitel. Oh, and most importantly, it didn't offer the Sofitel's simply divine freshly cooked French bread!
We will stay at the Sofitel on our next trip to Russia in July 2019. And who knows? The jury may well be out!
2025-05-22