Khuzhir, Irkutsk Oblast, Russian FederationWAKING UP IN KHUZIR, OLKHON ISLAND
A Shower and a Comfortable Night's Sleep. But the Hotel....
I know I keep saying it - but is truly astounding how our moods so readily swing from great lows to highs, and vice versa during overseas travels. A real roller-coaster ride. And yes, we often jokingly call it our "Camp Grenada Syndrome" after the clever song written way back in 1965 by Allan Sherman about a small boy who goes on a school camp. Where of course, everything went wrong. He hated it and everyone. And then it all went miraculously right. And he loved it....
On our arrival the evening before, our Baikal View Hotel certainly didn't help our demeanor. I should add however, we were both tired, dirty, bloated and had been travelling for nearly a month away from home. A toxic combination, and one which could tend to colour your vision somewhat....
Yes, from a distance the exterior of our Baikal View Hotel was certainly an eyesore. Disappointingly, it was even uglier close-up when we could see the shabbiness of its construction and the weed-infested, unkept grounds. A solitary, cheap and nasty green plastic chair placed on a rudimentary step, presumably to share with our neighbouring cabin, sure didn't add to the ambiance.
Even more saddening, the hotel was set on a magnificent, sloping steppe location with uninterrupted views of beautiful Lake Baikal. How this site could be developed in such an unsympathetic way, was beyond us. Conversely, the interior of the main part of the hotel, which we assumed was the original hotel before it was extended, housing the restaurant and main foyer area, was quite pleasant.
And the staff was friendly and helpful - pretty amazing after my furious performance the afternoon before.... Furthermore, the restaurant was good. You just needed to be blindfolded walking back to your room.
Our cabin was basic but comfortable, and it did have good views over lake Baikal. It never ceases to amaze me just how awful - actually physically ill - you can feel without washing even for just one day, let alone nearly four.... But after a most welcome hot shower and a good night's sleep, we felt like different people.
Breakfast was good too, and soon we were off for a day's exploring of Olkhon Island. And feeling lot happier….
A DAY EXPLORING OLKHON ISLAND
A Bit about Olkhon Island
Olkhon Island is the largest island in Lake Baikal, and is third largest lake island in the world. Covering an area of 730 square km, the island is 71.5 km in length and 21 km in width. Famous for its steep rocky cliffs, the island is thought to be a product of a mighty tectonic clash that created what is known as the Olkhon Island Gate, a strait which now separates the island from the western facing mainland shores, and where we caught the ferry at Sakhyurta. Olkhon Island is part of the Pribaikalsky National Park which is included along with Lake Baikal, in the List of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
The island comprises a dramatic combination of vastly differing terrains ranging from steep mountains (Mount Zhima is the highest point at 818 m), beaches, lakes, taiga, steppe grasslands and even small sandy deserts. It is home to a diverse but fragile array of plant, sea and land animal species, abundant birdlife and spectacular wildflowers. The island sanctuary is home to 155 bird species, including grouse, partridges, woodpeckers, sandpipers, ducks, larks, swifts and wagtails. Native animals include lynxes, hares, red foxes, squirrels, polecats, weasels and the endemic Olkhon Mountain vole. Wolves are the only large predators.
Sadly, excessive hunting has driven elk, sable and many other species to extinction. Sea life includes some 56 fish species including whitefish, grayling, sturgeon, perch, pike, Siberian char, Amur carp, catfish and the well known Omul, a member of the salmon family. The only sea mammal on the island is the Baikal Seal.
Olkhon Island has a truly fascinating environment. It has an extremely dry climate, corresponding to that of a semi-desert environment with just 200mm of rainfall per year. The rain shadow effects of the nearby Primorsky and Baikal Ridges cause a significant decrease in humidity, resulting in rainfall on the island being infrequent and short term. The island is also subject to powerful and damaging winds. Arctic air passing through the Primorsky Ridge enters a valley toward the nearby Sarma River mouth which forms a natural aerodynamic tunnel at the entrance of Lake Baikal. Furious storms are common in autumn and winter with wind speeds of up to 50 metres per second - or 180 km per hour. Not surprisingly, the exposure, isolation and severity of the island's climate has made for fascinating natural vegetative adaptations.
The population of the island is around 1,800, and comprises mostly ethnic Buryat people who have made Olkhon their home for centuries. Adherents of shamanism, the island is regarded by the Buryats as a deeply spiritual site.
With spectacular geographical sights and magnificent views of beaches, mountains, virgin forest, unique vegetation and the shores of Lake Baikal, it is not surprising that the island has become a very popular tourist destination. Originally home to fishers and farmers, the economy of Olkhon Island is rapidly becoming driven by tourism. Sadly the island has also become subject to environmental concerns including disposal of household waste and resulting pollution, severe erosion, vegetation damage, illegal felling of timber, hunting and over-fishing.
To Cape Khoboy - Open Taiga
At driver Sergei's insistence, we began our day early to avoid the tourists for our day drive from Khuzir along the north-eastern side of Olkhon island to the very northern tip of Cape Khoboy.
Being such a dry island in the middle of a lake, thick fogs often roll onto the island shores. Often moving at some speed, these billowing masses of thick white cloud can readily descend at any moment, only to be rapidly "burnt out" by a razing sun. This day we were to experience all climate variances from thick fog, to rain and then brilliant sunshine.
The first part of our journey took us through mist-shrouded open taiga forests comprising mostly of larch, fir, spruce and a variety of other conifers. Many were severely contorted: a reflection of their harsh and windy environment. The understory of the canopy was also fascinating with low growth, low light shrubs including the majestic Rhododendron dauricum. To witness fragile Rhododendrons growing so freely in the wild in such a severe environment was quite mind blowing. Groundcovers included low lying native Siberian daisies and a wonderful array of colourful mosses and lichens; some of the dense white growth reminding me of the luxuriant "Reindeer Lichen" we so fortunately observed in virgin forests north of Magadan city, Magadan Oblast.
There were multiple roads Sergei's sturdy Toyota four-wheel drive vehicle could take us. If one track was too muddy or eroded, we simply took another. The amount of resulting erosion in some of the black soils was truly disturbing. Furthermore, in some of the more open areas, the trees life looked particularly sick, with many large conifers either dead or dying. According to one source, the amount of unmade roads on the island has increased in length and density by a whopping 130% in 35 years. And the resulting impact on the environment of the island has been devastating. It was certainly very apparent.
The severity of the climate, lack of vegetation and overgrazing, together with tourist heavy vehicle exploitation poses some real challenges to the management of the island's tourist development. Even the enormous Russian Kamaz forestry vehicles must have done their fair share of land disturbance.
To Khoboy - Sagaan-Kushun (Three Brother Rocks)
Our drive took us along the northern coastline of Olkhon Island, past a small number of tiny villages to our first stop at Sagaan-Kushun. Translated from Buryat as "White Cape", the landmark is a trapezoid-shaped rock which has eroded into three separate formations - hence its alternative name of “Three Brothers Rock". The spectacular formations comprise marble and gneiss (metamorphic rocks formed from igneous or sedimentary rocks under high-pressure and ultra-high temperatures), and are beautifully carpeted with red, orange and white lichens. Here is a video of the surrounds of Sagaan-Kushun courtesy of Sergei guide: https://youtu.be/fAg37y0R238
As the story goes "Local Buryat legend tells that there once lived a shaman who had three sons and one daughter. The daughter fell in love and because her father forbade the relationship, she fled her father's house. He later transformed his sons into three eagles and sent them to find their sister. Their quest was a success, but the girl convinced the brothers not to betray her.
....Back home, the sons lied to their father that they failed the mission. The father however, did not believe them and in his anger, punished his sons by transfiguring them into rocks." I must say that I have heard similar stories all over Russia, as far north as the Lena Pillars! I have also heard another story from Sergei guide that the rocks were transfigured from three sons of a shaman who angered their father by eating the carrion of a white horse....
The views from Sagaan-Khushun were stunning. The mist lifted to reveal a wonderful coastline with sparkling clear waters. Tough sculptured pines guarded the rocky outcrop, whilst the hinterland was dotted with pretty, low lying flowering plants.
Destination Cape Khoboy
Another twenty minutes or so drive from Sagaan-Kushun took us to our destination of Cape Khoboy. Perched on the northernmost tip of Olkhon Island, the name of the Cape literally means "fang". And from an aerial view, the tip of the rocky outcrop certainly has a strong resemblance to a tooth. Conversely if the rock is viewed sideways, it apparently resembles a woman's profile. For this reason it is also known as Deva or Maiden Rock. Like Sagaan-Kushun, from where we were standing on top of the cliff face, it just looked like - well, the steep end of a peninsular.
For centuries, Khoboy has and still is, regarded as a highly significant sacred site for Buryats, especially for performing religious rites. And as for Sagaan-Kushun there are numerous legends about how the rock was formed. One tells " The cape is a transfiguration of a young woman who grew jealous of the palace Buryat gods gave her husband and demanded a similar one for herself. The angered gods said 'May you be a rock for as long as there is evil and envy on earth'."
Pleasingly, there was a long series of newly made, elevated wooden walkways leading to the tip of Cape Khoboy. There were also numerous viewing platforms, pleasant seating and places to rest. Not so fortunately, we had also caught up with the tourists. Minibuses and 4WD's arrived from seemingly nowhere, spilling crowds of people onto the headland.
Alan decided to take a rest while the Sergei's and I walked to the end of the walkway and to the very tip of Cape Khoboy. It was worthwhile. After less than 100 meters, most of the tourists stopped to take selfies against the backdrop of Lake Baikal, and we were able to experience the joy of having whole headland to ourselves.
At the very tip of headland the cliff faces were extremely steep, with stunning views of Lake Baikal and the northern neck of the Maloe More (Small Sea) Strait, a channel of some 200 meters in depth which runs some 70 km between the Irkutsk Oblast mainland and the northern shores of Olkhon Island. Here is a short video of the views from Cape Khoboy https://youtu.be/jDeI8ueQUvw
We came back to find Alan engrossed in conversation with a group of English-speaking Chinese tourists. He had thoroughly enjoyed himself chatting with these delightful young people, whose country over our many years of travel, we had grown to love with a passion. Watching the group chatting animatedly with Alan, I thought ashamedly - how could we possibly complain about these tourists?
Shunte-Levyy: The Cape of Love OR Man and Woman Rock
Just south of Cape Khoboy on the north-eastern side of the island, we stopped at another headland known as Shunte-Levyy. The name is Buryat for "larch tree" and indeed there was practically no other vegetation on the cape other than a few larch trees.
Otherwise known as the Cape of Love or Man and Woman Rock, the headland is curiously split almost evenly into two forked rock faces. Apparently, the left rock is Man and the right rock is Woman. Childless couples once came here for rituals and prayers. If a family wanted a boy, they would climb and pray to the left rock and vice versa for a girl. If they wanted twins, then they would walk straight ahead and make a wish.
A Special Lunch on a Secluded Beach
The evening before Sergei driver had gone to no end of trouble to buy some fish for our lunch the following day. This fish he explained was called "Omul", a type of salmon endemic to Lake Baikal, and much famed for its delicious, delicate flavour. "Tomorrow, we will have a picnic on the beach. And I will make you my special fish soup. It is very good. And very healthy!" he exclaimed.
To our surprise, Sergei had come equipped for our picnic with an astonishing collection of cookware, utensils, chopping boards, bowls, cutlery and plates, as well as a large bag of potatoes and other vegetables. The beach Sergei had chosen for our lunch was at the base of a very steep precipice. A small, almost vertical winding track took us for 100 meters or so through forest down to the most delightful, secluded cove imaginable. While we clambered down as best we could and often on our back sides, the agile Sergei leapt ahead carrying all the food and cookware.
Sergei's lunch preparation were a serious affair. In no time, Sergei had stripped himself of his shirt and furiously launched into lunch preparations. A curious male Russian custom, we wondered? It prompted visions of the much-famed photo of a bare-topped, very fit looking President Putin astride a horse. But we thought the better of mentioning it....
Firewood was collected and both Sergei's went to considerable lengths organising a camp fire. Then the fish had to be filleted, salted and seasoned then barbequed. As for the preparation of all good soups, a stock was made from the heads frames together with a load of chopped onions.
During the stock making process, Alan and I wandered on our own along the pretty little beach. Wonderfully protected by the steep backdrop and two small headlands, the shores were lined with smooth white-grey pebbles, washed over and over by the crystal clear waters of Lake Baikal's Maloe More. At the far end of the beach were curious large, smooth round white rocks. Polished by years of rumbling in the waters of the lake, they reminded me of bleached human skulls. And we HAD seen plenty of those in our recent travels through the crypts of Ingushetia!
The cove was blissfully peaceful; the occasional calling of seabirds and the waters gently lapping against the pebbled shore, the only sounds we could hear. It was truly magical. Here is a video of what we saw https://youtu.be/tRSoeOGJ6a4.
Meanwhile back at the beach camp site, Sergei driver was into the final stages of our lunch preparation. Vegetables had been cooked in the stock and large chunks of fish were added to make the final soup. We joked with Sergei "Not only are you a Geographical Genius but you are a Good Catch!" Sergei understood perfectly. Beaming, he replied "Hey. I'm a good catch, am I?" From then on in, he repeated the term endlessly. Sergei was enormously entertaining and I promised myself to have a "Good Catch" t-shirt printed and sent to him on our return home. A genial and intelligent person, we often wondered how he had ended up becoming a tour driver.
The soup was delicious. A great fun way to enjoy our day. And miraculously we were totally on our own. Not a 4WD nor a minibus in sight.....
MAKING OUR WAY BACK TO KHUZHIR VILLAGE
A Stop at the Desert District of Peschanaya Village - The Gulag and the Fish Cannery
There was no doubt about the variety of fascinating and beautiful terrain and landscapes on Olkhon Island. The diversity was mind blowing.
Following our lunch, we travelled across sweeping, grassy steppe plains to the outskirts of Peschanaya village, an abandoned settlement nestled in Nyurganskaya Bay, some 20 km from Khuzhir. The name is Russian for "sandy". And indeed it is here where sand has been swept by Baikal's wild winds over the centuries along seven km of coastline and inland for almost two km into the hinterland, forming huge dunes and a true desert environment.
The Peschanaya district has an interesting history. During the early 1900's, the then Tsarist government planned to evict the entire local Buryat population and build a convict prison near this location. But following the turmoil of the 1917 Revolution, the prison thankfully for the Buryats, was never built.
In the Stalin era Peschanaya was home to a fish cannery, and the site of a gulag for prisoners who worked in the factory and on the fishing boats. During the Great Patriotic War, canned Omul fish was shipped for soldiers battling on the front line. Up to 1,200 prisoners worked here up until Stalin's death when the gulag was closed and all were given their freedom.
Peschanaya cannery was still operational in 1950 when twenty houses were built right on the shoreline. In 1970, the village was virtually covered by wind blown sand and the residents were forced to leave. A wooden platform was built over the sand covered old road but it too was eventually covered by the shifting sands.
All that remains of the old village today are dilapidated houses and part of a small pier which is no longer usable for mooring as the waters are now far too shallow. At one stage however, it played a vital role in the life of the cannery as it enabled ice to be shipped in. According to Sergei guide, Peschanaya now houses a small museum and tea shop. As I understand, the only way into the old village today is by boat from Listvyanka on the Irkutsk Oblast mainland.
Fascinating Peschanaya Vegetation - a Botanist's Haven
The desert-like environment of the Peschanaya region has resulted in bizarre and fascinating vegetation adaptations. The area east of Peschanaya and where Sergei parked his car, resembled more of a beach environment dotted with occasional low-branching conifers, larch, pine and numerous brightly coloured flowering clumping and prostrate plants. In between were upright spikes of sturdy grey-green grass, closely resembling what we know as Spinifex back home in Australia.
How tough was this vegetation? With such low precipitation and an almost pure sand substrate, life for these plant and tree species has meant enormous vegetative adjustments. And to be quite honest, the trees in Peschanaya didn't look all that healthy either.
For survival in such ferocious conditions, some of the trees had let their lower limbs become almost prostrate, flowing protectively over the sandy surrounds of the tree base. We live on an exposed headland in coastal New South Wales which endures very severe weather conditions, with gale force winds and harsh salt spray being very much part of the climate. And interestingly, over the years of trying to establish gardens, we have noticed some of our trees adopting a similar protective mechanism. Some, like our Gordonias went completely prostrate until they had sufficient vegetative mass, before growing upright. Fascinating.... How clever and how successful!
North of Peschanaya are what are locally known as "The Stilted Trees". The trees have adapted by developing unusual adventitious roots* to provide not only additional support but to also raise the level of the trees by as much as three meters to avoid waterlogging due to the tidal nature of the area.
It is not normal biological growth for Baikal larch and pine to form adventitious roots. It is particularly constrained to those on Olkhon Island experiencing the stress of huge gusty winds, poor sandy soils and tidal situations. While adventitious roots are not uncommon in tropical regions, they are most unusual in very cold environments such as Olkhon Island. At home in Australia, the are synomynous with large fig trees and even New Zealand Christmas Bush.
In some places, the "stilted trees" of Olkhon Island are grossly contorted and appear to be walking on their long vertical adventitious roots. There is a theory now that the sands beneath these trees are slowly but surely sliding toward the waters of the lake. Hence the apt name of "The Walking Trees".
*Adventitious roots are those formed by any non-root tissue both in normal growth or in response to stress conditions. They help the tree or plant to better anchor itself against winds and tidal situations, elevate vegetation in wet conditions and increase nutrient and water flow.
Back to Khuzir
Late in the afternoon, we headed back to Khuzir Village and our hotel. A darkening sky loomed and storm clouds appeared threateningly on the horizon of Lake Baikal. Razor sharp rays of a setting sun light pierced through threatening skies.
On arriving at Khuzir, the village appeared deserted. Tourists long gone, the intriguing little village was left all to itself. As were we.
Looking back on our arrival to Olkhon Island the afternoon before, it was difficult to reconcile what we were seeing. Even our hotel looked better. Well, slightly.... The place was deserted.
We had thoroughly enjoyed our day. Olkhon Island was not only truly beautiful but extraordinarily interesting. With the certainty of a good hot shower and a decent meal, the world was looking a whole lot brighter. Camp Grenada?
Special Note
My special thanks are extended to our guide Sergei Baikov for his untiring assistance with this blog entry.
Sergei provided me with unique background information, especially about the history and vegetation of the Peschanaya District. Thank you, Sergei!
geoff n
2023-01-12
as always very interesting & informative - excellent
Valeriya
2023-01-12
A wonderful article and no less wonderful photos!