Tokyo: Re-Connecting with Our Japanese Family

Sunday, March 08, 2020
Tokyo, Tokyo, Japan
LEAVING SAKHALIN ISLAND 
A Corona-Saturated Media Morning
Sadly, it was time to leave Russia. Our coming route back home to Australia would take us via Vladivostok to Tokyo where we would spend a brief time meeting our Japanese family, before heading off on our last international flights via Hong Kong to Sydney. 
Watching televised world news in our Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk hotel that morning, we were confronted with almost saturation Corona Virus coverage. It was certainly time for us to head for home. The only positive aspect was that it did allay just a little of my sadness in leaving our beloved Russia. 
Reports of cancelled international flights were rife. And once again, we received an email from Cathay Pacific informing us yet another flight was cancelled. Our flight from Tokyo to Hong Kong would now be combined with several other international airlines. These were bound to be very full flights, no matter what class of seating. A new nagging concern. It would be a very easy way to contract Corona virus being seated cheek-by-jowl with hundreds of other passengers in an airline cabin.
There was of course no choice. It was best not to think about it. Our main concern from then on was being able to get back home. Much as we love Russia, it would not be a lot of fun being detained there. And it has nearly happened in the past when during frightful Arctic weather, our visas came dangerously close to their expiry date. 
But even then, the enormity of what was happening and indeed was about to happen was well beyond our comprehension. How could it have been otherwise?
A Cold Take-Off from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk
During my pleasant walk through Gagarin Park the previous evening, I thought the temperature was becoming very cold. By the time I reached our hotel, I was frozen. Of course, I should have worn heavier clothing. Just in case. But some people are slow learners.... That evening the temperature dropped to minus 14 C. Yes, it was chilly but nothing compared to some of the extreme temperatures (sometimes around minus 50 C) we had witnessed in Yakutia. I mused that I must be getting soft.... 
The morning of our flight, the almost balmy feel of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk became a forgotten memory. The bleak airport shrouded in fog, snow and ice, was a firm reminder of just how rapidly the temperatures can change in Arctic Russia. 
Seated in our Aeroflot aircraft, to our concern we noticed that the wings of the plane were heavily laden with thick ice. Just before take-off however, a bizarre looking robotic de-icing and anti-icing machine began its work. It was my first sighting of a such equipment and it was very impressive; the wings rapidly pressure-sprayed to remove the packed ice, then re-sprayed with an anti-freeze agent*.  Video footage can be seen at https://youtu.be/C_da8XKhQrM
In no time, we were ready for take-off on our one-and-a-half-hour flight to Vladivostok. It did make me wonder later however, how we got on a few years before in places like Bilibino, Chukotka where the temperature dropped to minus 55 C and despite enormously heavy snow, there was certainly no de-icing of our old "bolted-together" aircraft's wings.... 
* Ice laden aircraft wings are a serious hazard in Arctic regions as they can dramatically reduce the performance of an aircraft. Ice on wings is akin to coarse sandpaper that can reduce wing lift as much as 30% and increase wind drag by around 40%. Needless to say, it has a huge negative impact on the ability of an aircraft to take-off . De-icing is usually performed by high pressure spraying with heated propylene glycol. After the ice is blasted off, the wing may be sealed with anti-icing materials which absorb water and prevent ice formation. 
VLADIVOSTOK TO TOKYO   
In-Transit in Vladivostok. Golly - What Silver Wedding Anniversary....?
Transiting at Russian airports can often be a nightmare. But thankfully, all went very smoothly with our luggage being booked through from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk direct to Tokyo. I cannot tell you what a difference it makes not to have to worry about finding luggage carousels and retrieving baggage in often confusing and difficult Russian airports, and where there is very little English signage.
Free of hassles however, we relaxed in the Departures Lounge waiting for our connecting flight. To my astonishment a FaceBook message from our English friend Linda appeared on my iPad with a curious congratulatory message "Dear Wendy & Alan. Congratulations on your 25th Silver Wedding Anniversary. Hope you are having a wonderful time celebrating your special day! xx"
What anniversary? To our shock, it was indeed our 25th wedding anniversary. We had completely forgotten all about it. Not that it was really a day we wished to remember.** We laughed. Yes, that was just like us....
** A Note About Our Wedding We Have Kept Secret - Well Almost - for Years
You may well ask why we may not have wanted to remember our wedding day. Like most things we seem to do in life, our marriage was undoubtedly unconventional, to say the least. A disaster actually... The wedding event I should say. Not the outcome....
After some twenty years of being together, we decided for some unknown reason to get married. We had intended that it would be a very private occasion and to avoid insulting family and friends, we had invited just six people, including my parents, to join us at what was then our holiday village (now our home) of Crowdy Head. And we thought we had kept it all very quiet.... 
Alas, it was not to be. Not only had we insulted everyone, we had also enraged the gods. Tropical Cyclone Violet roared down from the north, causing major damage and extensive flooding. Our wedding had to be postponed for three days. And then four of our guests were unable to reach us because of nearby flooding. Then another elderly guest Buddie had a heart attack and had to be emergency lifted to a nearby hospital....
The "wedding" did take place - eventually. And events did not improve. Outside Crowdy Head lighthouse where the ceremony took place, the wind howled and then it poured with rain. The celebrant had somehow used her standard, conservative traditional wedding ceremony and not my carefully prepared words. The wedding came to a halt.... 
It was ridiculous. In hindsight, even amusing. We did finally sign our vows. Our heart attack friend Buddie returned to hospital. She survived. And I took off my wet wedding dress and cooked the "wedding dinner".... Joy!
ARRIVING IN TOKYO
Surprise Arrival Procedures - So This is the New Corona Era?
Arriving in Japan after being in Russia is usually like chalk and cheese. Much as we adore Russia, it is not an easy country for foreign travellers, especially those who do not speak fluent Russian. Japan, on the other hand, runs as smoothly as a well-oiled clock. Everything works. And in our opinion, the Japanese client service culture and fastidious attention to detail is unsurpassed.
Well this time, upon our arrival, operations at Narita Airport were not quite so fluid. Long queues and unusual confusion reigned. Instead of uniformed airport officials, diminutive suited men ran around directing people into various queues; often as it happened into the wrong ones. Corona Virus paranoia had well and truly set in. It appeared that administration had decided to take over from the usual officials. It was chaotic.
To us passengers from Russia, the fuss seemed well and truly over the top. After all, there was no such panic during our arrivals and departures anywhere in Eastern Russia. It was of course, just a factor of time. And in hindsight, well and truly justified.
Each passenger entering Japan had to be finger-printed. One by one passengers dutifully pressed their forefingers onto a glass plate, their prints recorded, and the next passenger followed suit. I was horrified. Here the officials were trying to address the problem through identification but using a method that would surely be the worst means of spreading any microbial disease. By the time I went through the process, the glass plate was coated in a thick smear of grimy sticky fingerprints. A virus' delight! (interestingly, the very word "virus" is a derivative of a Middle English Latin word for "slimy mass").  
I refused to be finger-printed until the glass plate was cleaned with alcohol. A kindly sorrowful official bowed, cleaned the glass and apologised profusely. I'm not sure that would have been quite the case in Russia - or Australia for that matter. I heard Alan's impatient mutter behind me "For god's sake, Wendy...."
Once through Customs however, the crowds mysteriously dispersed. The airport for all intents and purposes, was almost empty. Those airport staff on duty wore full face masks. Some even wore what we now know as PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) gear. 
After a very relaxed Corona Unconscious Russia, it was somewhat of a shock for us. Welcome to the New World of Corona Virus.....
To Tokyo City and our Pullman Tokyo Tamachi Hotel
Alan is such a fastidious person when it comes to travel detail. Concerned about purchasing our bus tickets from Tokyo's Narita Airport, he had painstakingly translated numerous questions about our bus journey from Narita Airport to the Shinagawa Prince Hotel, where we would catch a taxi to our Pullman Tokyo Tamachi.
But we were on familiar Japanese ground. The friendly staff spoke fluent English; issuing our tickets with great formality and respect. And soon we were off on our very convenient bus journey toward our hotel.  
If the empty airport was a surprise, then our hotel was a real shock. There was virtually no one staying. Staff advised that as there were only fourteen guests in total, the dining room was closed for meals. Being Club Member Guests, we could however dine in the Club Lounge. Which is what we normally would do anyway. The breakfast buffet was also unavailable. But thankfully, we could order a la carte from a menu. While we nodded understandingly, I couldn't help but selfishly think "But what about my Onsen Eggs?" After all, I had not stopped thinking about these eggs for five weeks! Perhaps they were part of a Japanese bento breakfast box? Shamefully, I thought about my eggs all evening....
Organisational Arrangements for our Japanese Family Reunion
Other than my egg pre-occupation, there were more pressing matters to attend. Our meeting room and food arrangements needed to be organised for our reunion the following day with our Japanese friends; the lovely Wada family. 
As we understood, the function would be attended by our very close friend Mrs Ikuku Wada, and around ten of her family members representing several generations of the Wada family. If there was anything good about the Corona virus issue, it was that Japanese schools had closed, and a number of the children would also be able to come. It was for us a huge honour that so many of the family were able to attend. It would have been some sixteen years or so since we had seen Mrs Wada, and we were enormously excited. And I might admit, even somewhat nervous as to how the function might proceed.
We had decided that a morning tea function at our hotel would be most convenient for everyone, and hopefully the safest Corona-wise for our friends. Being very special friends or rather "family", we were insistent that our morning tea was as well organised as possible and that the food, tea, coffee and beverages were of the best standard the hotel could offer.  
We need not have worried. Attention to detail and beautiful presentation is of course a Japanese artform. The hotel management was wonderfully obliging, suggesting a very pleasant room and a suitably comfortable layout - even down to the detail of a central table and well-sized, comfortable chairs. It was essential that all members of the party including the children, could take part. The chef even took me aside to show me a variety of beautifully presented cakes and slices that he thought would be suitable for the occasion. He was insistent that I carefully select each and every one. The cakes themselves were works of art; some sculptured as Japanese women with parasols, others looking like fresh luscious fruit. And were there any other delicacies I could suggest? 
Everything would be served by hotel staff. All we had to do was indicate to the waiter-in-charge, at precisely what time after our initial greetings we would like the food and beverages served. We were mightily relieved at the obvious professionalism and seriousness taken by the hotel management.
It may sound to some of our Australian friends that we were obsessively concerned about the organisation of our morning reunion. After all, such meticulous attention to detail does not come easily for most of us laid back Australians. But after many years of being so well hosted and cared for by the Wada family and other close Japanese associates, we were highly cognisant of the importance of correct protocol and paying fastidious attention to detail, even down to seating arrangements for family members and of course how and where our most important guest Mrs Wada and her daughter Kazuyo-san who would be translating, would be seated. 
Alan and I had both spent a lot of time during our working days travelling in Japan; Alan especially so with his work commitments at the most senior levels of the (then) State Department of Industrial Development and Decentralisation and (then) Department of Agriculture. I had also undertaken a Winston Churchill Fellowship tour for thirteen weeks in 1994, studying food trends and cultural aspects of doing business in Japan and Asia. During these days we had much contact on both a business and personal basis with the Wada family, their associates and friends.
We had learnt a lot about Japanese culture and protocol. But we were very much aware of how easy it is to unwittingly cause embarrassment or even insult by not paying enough attention to absolute detail when planning even a seemingly straightforward event such as a morning tea. But we need not have worried. The Wada family was just that; a close and loving family. 
An Evening at the Pullman Tamachi
There was no doubt about it. The Pullman Tokyo Tamachi was a lovely hotel. But despite how hard the friendly and obliging staff tried, without guests and restaurants and bars open, it certainly lacked atmosphere. 
Similarly, a walk around the hotel surrounds was very so, so. Being located in a business district, there were few interesting shops nor sites, and not wanting to venture too far, in less than an hour we returned to the hotel. It was still surprising to us that absolutely everyone was wearing masks. And in hindsight, we certainly should have as well.
That evening, we enjoyed drinks and a meal in the Club Lounge. There was virtually no one about at all and it was not hard to make friends with the few hotel guests. We had the fortune to meet Ellen, a friendly and fun-loving Canadian woman who was nearing the end of a two week's solo holiday in Japan. A film director, picture and sound editor who had produced numerous documentaries, she had worked for Medicins San Frontieres and CBC Radio-Canada. Ellen was a fabulously interesting person who, to my delight, was also an avid writer and publisher**.
A couple from South Australia were also enjoying drinks in the lounge. Michelle, a keen marathon runner and her husband David soon joined in our conversation. They too were nearing the end of a holiday in Japan and like us, concerned about the Corona virus situation and their impending return to Australia. 
We also talked about the possible impact of Corona virus on the Tokyo Olympic Games scheduled to be held in August, just months away. To our astonishment, recent media reports indicated the games could be postponed for a year. Or even cancelled. Surely not? Had the world turned on its head, we asked? Well, yes it had.
At the time, there was also talk about Australian international travellers perhaps having to self-isolate on their return home. But at the time, no restrictions had been imposed. Conversely, Canada had already imposed strict self-isolation regulations on all returning international travellers. And I recall being quite shocked when Ellen told us that not only would she have to self-isolate for fourteen days on her return home, but also her husband who had not even left the country. At the time we thought such measures were well and truly "over the top"....
Our conversations, while entertaining at the time, left me with an uneasy feeling about our own return home. Hazel, our "cat sitter " was scheduled to pick us up in our own car from Port Macquarie Airport, some 100 km north of our home village of Crowdy Head.   
That night I lay awake wondering how we could get home should self-isolation restrictions be introduced. And even if they weren't, didn't we perhaps have an obligation not to have close contact with other people? Living in our part of regional Australia, we do not have the luxury of public transport or even a bus or taxi service from the airport to our home. Sleepily, I decided the only solution was to ask a friend to follow Hazel in their car to the airport then drive her back to our house where she could collect her own vehicle. Hazel could leave our keys at the airport....
But then again, there were only 30 people living full-time in our tiny village. Finding a local person available to help out could be difficult. Over-thinking.... I fell asleep. Problem unresolved.
**Ellen and I have had remained in close contact. She has been very supportive with my work in publishing my blogs as hard copy books. I am grateful to her for her generous time and useful suggestions.
A WONDERFUL RE-UNION WITH OUR "FAMILY"
How we the Met the Wada Family 
Alan first made contact with the Wada family through Mrs Wada's late husband Mr Mitsumasa Wada in the 1989 when Alan had just established and headed up the marketing unit "Agsell" for the New South Wales Department of Agriculture. Mr M Wada was one of the top senior executives of the Yaohan Group company; a leading Japanese supermarket chain which at its peak had 450 stores in 16 countries (Wikipedia, 2021).
Their very first meeting as Alan described to me often, was that of an immediate firm and trusting friendship. It was as he always said, a remarkable relationship between two people of vastly different backgrounds and culture. I know that Alan regarded Mr M Wada as one of his closest and dearest friends. Their initial business relationship quickly evolved to a more personal basis with Mr Wada taking the unconventional initiative of inviting Alan and his colleagues to his family home in Atami, south-west of Tokyo. The relationship was further enhanced as Alan and I became close personal friends with Mrs Ikuku Wada, their daughters Kazuyo-san and Yoko-san and other family members. They were truly halcyon days.
And that is how we came to be part of a wonderful relationship with the Wadas and how in fact, they became our "Japanese Family".
Note: Mr M Wada tragically died in 1997. A relatively young man, it was a terrible loss. 
A Note About the Yaohan Retail Group
The evolution of the Japanese Yaohan Group was a truly extraordinary story.
The retail group was founded by Mr Ryohei Wada and his wife Mrs Katsu Wada in 1930. Originally operated as a single small grocery shop, the business was later expanded by their son Mr Kazuo Wada (Mr K Wada, elder brother of Mr M Wada), developing it into a major supermarket chain with retail outlets mostly located in Shizuoka prefecture, south of Tokyo. 
During the 1980's and 1990's, the Yaohan Group expanded dramatically outside Japan; the forward thinking Mr K Wada foreseeing the future for the company growth in the wider Asian region, and particularly in China. Outlets were opened throughout China, the USA, Canada, Brazil, Costa Rica, and the UK.  Other stores were opened in Macau, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Taiwan, Brunei and Indonesia. In a bold and courageous move in 1990, Yaohan Group moved its headquarters to Hong Kong. 
In 1991, the company opened the International Merchandising Mart (IMM) in Jurong, Singapore, the largest wholesale outlet mall in Singapore. 
In 1992, Agsell initiated the opening of an innovative government marketing outlet for Australian food and fibre produce within the IMM. They were certainly very exciting times with a number of highly successful trade ventures resulting from this unconventional but forward-thinking initiative.
Our Morning Tea with the Wada Family
Given the almost complete lack of guests, it must have been quite exciting for the management of our hotel to host a function that morning. And they certainly tried their very hardest to make our meeting a true success. 
There was great fanfare upon the arrival of our friends. And even though we had not seen the Wadas for many years, it was as if that time had vanished. And our dear Mrs Wada and her daughter Kazuyo-san looked exactly how we remembered them. Only the children had changed. They were almost adults now. 
Lots of hugs and kisses and even tears....
Kazuyo-san's husband Shinji-san was working and unfortunately unable to join us. And sadly, Yoko-san and her husband Koya-san and family who were living in Barcelona were of course, unable to attend. 
But we had the opportunity for the first time to meet Mrs Wada's other daughters Mariko-san and Machiko-san, and their families of which we had heard so much.
Kazuyo, as always did an expert job of translating, helped by other family members, many of whom spoke excellent English. Our morning was as always with the Wadas, easy and informal. 
There was lots of reminiscing, especially about the wonderful days with Mr M Wada. But there were also times of great laughter, especially when the family was telling us about Mrs Wada's more recent profession of reading palms. At 80 years of age, she was still working a few days per week and apparently thoroughly enjoying herself with her palmistry skills.
The hotel service was exemplary. After all, what Japanese service is NOT exemplary? The food was perfect; the little cakes tiny masterpieces. 
It was a fabulous morning and a great way to more informally meet up with old friends. It meant the world to us, and we were delighted that it meant a lot to Mrs Wada and her family. 
Later both Kazuyo-san and Yoko-san wrote, thanking us and saying how very happy their mother was to see us again. "When she met you, her heart was filled with your kindness... My mother was very, very happy" (Kazuyo) and "Looking at my mom's such a delighted face, I thought my dad was there too for sure. After a few decades, I realised that how important and wonderful the friendship with you was for my parents, and for whole my family...." (Yoko).
We are very fortunate people to have such wonderful family.
A RELAXED DAY IN OUR HOTEL 
Oh, Those Onsen Eggs!
Our last day in Tokyo was one of complete relaxation. The Wada family had explained that because of the Corona virus issue, many people had decided not to frequent supermarkets or department stores. And as mentioned, all school were closed. 
It was a good excuse to spend another day in our hotel. And after travelling rough for so many weeks, it was a well appreciated luxury. But of course, the best thing for me was breakfast. And those Onsen Eggs!
When we confirmed our second stay at the Pullman, I had commented on the excellent breakfast and of course the eggs. To my delight, the management with a typical Japanese eye for detail, had responded with "We warmly welcome you back to our hotel. Your Onsen Eggs are waiting for you!" And they were.
Breakfast at the Pullman was a sumptuous affair. Alan chose a western breakfast. And he was in his element! Delightfully presented in its very own cooking pan, it comprised eggs, sausages, bacon, mushrooms and even a little saucepan of baked beans. The meal also included a plate of huge chunks of fried French toast, dripping with butter and accompanied by tiny pots of fresh jam and cream. Hardly good for the waistline. But it looked divine. 
But of course, nothing could top my Japanese breakfast. Presented in an elegant lacquered breakfast box, it comprised a wonderful selection of Japanese delicacies, including pickled and fresh fish, my cherished eggs and a generous serving of natto (fermented soybeans) and rice. The photo says it all!
A Relaxed End to Our Stay in Tokyo
Later in the day, I took a short walk around the hotel, wandering into a nearby tiny grocery shop. I love supermarkets of any description, but Japanese stores would have to be my all-time favourite. Exquisitely packaged sushi, seafood, vegetables and the individually packed single serve meals of delicacies such as pre-cooked tempura, crab souffles, boiled eggs and beautifully presented lunch boxes brought back great memories of my study tour days way back in 1994.
That evening we again enjoyed drinks with Ellen, Michelle and David. It was our last get-together and despite our now nagging concerns about Corona virus and our individual voyages back home, it was a wonderfully relaxed and enjoyable evening; a most pleasant and civilised way to end our 2020 overseas adventures. 
At that stage, it was fortunate that we had no idea of what was to come with the now-known COVID pandemic, the millions of deaths world-wide, the immense hardships for people nor more hedonistically, the complete lockdown on national and international travel. 
And little did we know, that our following morning flight to Sydney via Hong Kong, was booked on the very last scheduled flight out of Tokyo.  
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