Arctic Bay, Nunavut, CanadaARRIVING IN ARCTIC BAY
A Splendid Welcome to a Perfect Arctic Hamlet
Our flight into Arctic Bay was one of the most beautiful I have witnessed. Flying at low altitude over a gently folded landscape blanketed in rich fondant snow, our journey finally took us over steep mountains rising majestically from a glorious frozen arched bay.
But what were those black specks peppering the shoreline?
Nestled between a sheer escarpment and the frozen expanse of Admiralty Inlet, the specks were indeed, tiny cottages and outbuildings. What looked like a faint, pastel etching of a cricket pitch was an airport runway. We had arrived at the perfectly perfect hamlet of Arctic Bay. Videos of our approach to Arctic Bay can be found at https://youtu.be/dd27prNXIPc and https://youtu.be/z_6Kon-fNiM
On a glorious afternoon, we could not have asked for a better greeting to this strikingly beautiful destination. Again, an Arctic sky was disproportionately large. Like giant hands, delicate, cloud fingers radiated against a brilliant azure sky, seducing us into the charming bayside settlement. The sun smiled down on our aircraft as we ground to a halt, seemingly amid polar nowhere. Arctic Bay and its surroundings were glowing.
It was a breathtaking welcome. I don't think I will ever become used to that heart-pounding sensation of arriving at a remote Arctic location where there are no roads in and no roads out; the only external transport is by air or, in the summer, by ship or boat. Located less than 2,000 km from the North Pole and way above the Arctic Circle, Arctic Bay ranks among the world's top ten most beautiful Arctic locations. We could see why.
Teaming with new arrivals, the tiny airport was packed with people either meeting family or at least looking like they knew where they were going. As usual, we didn't... We knew that the hotel shuttle bus had broken down, but taxis were supposed to service the airport. That day, there were none. And, of course, our phone SIM card didn't work in Nunavut...
We must have looked more than a bit obvious. A friendly woman, Audrey introduced herself to me. Would I like to meet her while we were staying in Arctic Bay? She was a teacher-trainer based in Arctic Bay and could show us around if we wished. Perhaps we would like to join her for a picnic? More to the point, would we like to sell our yellow jackets to her at the end of our stay? Beautifully dressed in a stylish Arc'teryx jacket, I was slightly taken aback by her question. Why would she want to buy our jackets? And how could anyone have a picnic in these Arctic conditions? Then again, some strange things seem to happen to us...
As we were talking with one of the airport staff about possible transport to our hotel, a friendly voice asked us if we were staying at the Taqqut Inns North. Eric was the General Manager for Inns North Nunavut and kindly offered to take us to the hotel in his sturdy utility.
And that hospitable gesture just kept happening in Nunavut. We would be walking down a road when a friendly local would ask us if we needed a lift or would like an invitation to their house or office. As we were to find out, Audrey's straightforward friendliness was typical of the Nunavut culture.
The managers of our Taqqut Inns North Hotel, Tom and Shantelle, kept in close contact with us before our arrival. Friendly and helpful, they were prompt and efficient with our booking and answered any of our questions. It was the beginning of a great relationship we still enjoy today.
And meeting them at last was like being with old friends. Shantelle warmly welcomed us and showed us to our room. "I've given you a room with a larger bed," she explained. Like Rankin Inlet, most people staying in Nunavut hotels were either on business or hunting, and most of the rooms were equipped with single beds only.
Our room was basic but cosy and comfortable. It was considerably bigger than our room in Rankin Inlet and had a comfy long lounge. There were also tea and coffee-making facilities and a microwave. Best of all, the hotel had a restaurant. We were happy. "Oh, and dinner is at 5:30 pm" informed Shantelle. It was a bit of a shock for people who eat at around 10:00 pm. But funnily enough, we became very used to the early meals, and each day, would be surprisingly hungry by then. Lunch for us, however, was just not an option...
An Afternoon Walk Through Arctic Bay
An afternoon walk to the Northern supermarket was a must. Shantelle had told us that the local store sold SIM cards, but we were not optimistic. Once again, we were surprised by the variety and quality of goods. There were even reasonable quality avocadoes - a long journey for this fragile fruit.
And like most Arctic stores, it contained a bit of everything - from fresh and packaged food to clothing, materials, fishing gear and hardware. And yes, it even sold SIM cards! For a mere CAD 10.00 (my Australian-bought SIM card was AUS 150), our Lucky Mobile SIM* sounded cheap - and nasty. We sure didn't hold too many hopes about its coverage. Surprisingly, our phone worked throughout our stay in Nunavut and even back via Yellowknife, to Vancouver. But that's yet another story...
*Later, we learned that Lucky Mobile is a Canadian prepaid mobile virtual network operator and a subsidiary of Bell Canada. A very reputable brand - with a hopelessly tacky name.
Walking back to our hotel, a large covered paddy wagon pulled beside us. To our surprise, it was a Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) vehicle. Being of a guilty nature, I hastily checked that we had done nothing to break the law. After all, I did that all too easily in Pevek, Russia, when I inadvertently took photos of FSS (formerly known as the KGB) Border Guards - which, not surprisingly, landed me into a lot of trouble...
A friendly face smiled at us. It was Steve, a police officer based in Arctic Bay. "Hey, I saw you guys on the plane coming from Iqaluit. Where are you from?" Again, it was the beginning of another very cordial relationship with Steve and other members of the RCMP, with whom we would meet during our travels in Nunavut. Steve asked us to drop in at the police station one morning for coffee. An offer for which we were very appreciative. The more we could learn about life in the Arctic from people who lived and worked there, the better.
After returning to our hotel on a very cold afternoon, we chatted about our day. As we were to find, the more we began to know the Canadians, especially those in the far north, the more impressed we were with their genuine friendliness and generosity.
Evening in Arctic Bay
Reviews about the Taqqut Inns North always included references to the high standard of the restaurant meals. Tom prepared very good evening meals, varied with lots of vegetables and special touches, and always extraordinarily generous portions. Shantelle was the chef of the desserts, priding herself on providing an array of carefully prepared, homemade sweet delicacies. Both went to a lot of trouble to provide quality and interesting meals.
Our only problem was trying to do justice to the size of the dinners. These days, our meals are relatively small, and we felt quite guilty for not being able to finish Tom's delicious yet enormous Canadian-sized dinners. Looking disappointed, he agreed the next day to serve us smaller portions - which, with skipping lunch, solved the problem.
Evening at Arctic Bay was a very special time. By early April, sunsets were late, and the soft twilights were long. From our hotel, we could look out across the frozen hamlet, painted in pastel tones of pink, lavender and silver.
Arctic Bay was a very beautiful place.
DAY 2 IN ARCTIC BAY
A Relaxing Day
Breakfast was a leisurely affair. Tom and Shantelle provided a casual buffet-style Continental breakfast, which suited us perfectly. People seemed to wander freely in and of the hotel. Some were staff, others hunters, outfitters** and/or local tour guides. Some just appeared to be friends of Shantelle and Tom. It was all very relaxed, and everyone was warm and friendly.
It was acutely obvious, however, that we were the only "non-hunter tourists" at the hotel. And that should be unsurprising given the extraordinary costs of both getting to Nunavut and being accommodated there.*** And hunters were the only "tourists" we encountered throughout our travels in Nunavut. They were dead easy to spot. All seemed to have immense pride in their passion for hunting, always wearing traditional army-style fatigues and must-have military caps. And equipped with piles of guns...
It came as a real shock to realise how much of a "sport" hunting is in northern Canada; the industry is worth big money in Nunavut villages such as Arctic Bay.
From what we understand, hunting is heavily regulated. Non-Indigenous hunters must hire Inuit guides and pay considerable money to shoot polar bears and other large wildlife. Hunting large animals, such as polar bears, musk oxen, and caribou, can only be undertaken using dog team transport or by foot. Helicopters and light aircraft can only be used for transport, not tracking or herding wild animals. Ammunition and firearms for a hunt must meet prescribed requirements. There are also strict codes of practice regarding the age, sex, and breeding status of the animals. Proof of the animal's identity must be presented to local rangers.
Only Inuit inhabitants are allowed to shoot without a licence, but they also must show evidence of a kill. In all instances, the animals must be tagged for identification of legal requirements. A lottery system selects Eligible Inuit Hunters for polar bear hunting tags. Traditionally, they have used meat as food and skins for clothing. Even today, the meat from an Inuit-led harvested polar bear must be given to the community.
Similarly, all meat from a sport-hunted polar bear goes to the Inuit guide and their family or the community food bank. The sale of skins is, however, legal. Interestingly, many hunters are from the USA and, like Australians, cannot return bear skins to their country. I would say, "Why would you want evidence of such useless destruction of an animal's life?" But people obviously do.
We tried hard to hide our disappointment at seeing so many hunters. We "get" the killing of animals for food and materials, but trophy hunting we find abhorrent. How could you get joy out of killing a magnificent animal such as a polar bear or musk ox? We are yet to find any viable explanation.
In saying that, we met at breakfast that morning with several hunting people, all of whom we reluctantly admitted appeared to be charmingly nice. According to our point of view (which is always correct...), being a nice person and a trophy hunter has to be a true definition of juxtaposition. And meeting other hunters in Arctic Bay and Resolute, we came to the same conclusion.
Over breakfast, we talked with Harald, one of the hunters staying at the hotel. An engaging and friendly man, he told us about his passion for hunting and the countries he travelled to. Harald had hunted for the "Big Prize Animals" worldwide. We didn't ask, but we gathered he meant the big cats, elephants, rhinoceros, and polar bears.
Harald was about to embark on a ten-day Inuit-guided hunting trip by dog sled, camping out in the open tundra. We couldn't help but wonder at his ability to survive such extremes of outside cold. After all, he was not a particularly young man. Harald explained that the dog sleds were covered and heated, and the tents were kept warm at night. After seeing the size and obvious weight of the sleds, I couldn't help but feel sorry for the dogs, let alone the unfortunate bears. We kept our thoughts to ourselves... But for me, that wasn't easy!
Strangely, we did have in common our bear tour and travels to the eastern peninsula of Kamchatka in far southeast Siberia. The difference was that we were there to view and photograph the bears, not kill them. Harald had only just returned, and we were keen to ask him how he could enter Russia and travel there, given the worldwide sanctions and declaration of a No Go Zone by our country and many others. And what about insurance? Harald replied that he had no problems as an American travelling in Russia. He used Global Rescue for insurance, a company run by ex-army seals who guaranteed to rescue people worldwide, even in war zones. The company could keep their insurance premiums very reasonable by cooperating with local rescue teams. You needed a satellite phone, which one would think all hunters in remote locations would have. Our discussions about Russia were interesting, informative and helpful. We would love to return to Extreme Arctic Russia.
The notion of trophy hunting challenged our values. After all, I like fishing, but I eat the fish. We both eat meat, but rarely and only in tiny portions. Alan has often commented that one day, the human race will wake up to the fact that the killing of any animal is unacceptable. After all, who gives us the right to decide which animals live or die? I know he is right...
**Our hunting term learning curve was further enhanced by the term "outfitter". We had heard of it before when we tried contacting a travel agent in Magadan and were told to contact an "outfitter". But we didn't have much idea what business they were in. They are providers or organisers of hunting and/or hiking equipment, supplies, and sometimes guides for outdoor activities.
*** We understand about the costs involved with Nunavut travel. It is such an isolated and harsh environment. Everything must be freighted in, and understandably, the costs of just about everything are eye-watering, to say the very least.
INTRODUCING ARCTIC BAY
Location
Located on the north shore of Adams Sound of Admiralty Inlet on the northern part of the Borden Peninsula on Baffin Island (Qikiqtani Region), at a latitude of 73 °N, the Inuit hamlet of Arctic Bay is Canada's third most northerly community. In the Inuktitut language, it is known as Ikpiarjuk or "the pocket", a reference to its sheltered, almost landlocked bay surrounded by enormously steep mountains.
Topography and Climate
The dramatic terrain around Arctic Bay comprises fascinating geological formations, with hoodoos**** and sheer red rock cliff faces reaching heights of around 180 meters.
Repeated Ice Age glacial erosion created deep valleys and beautiful fiords, including Admiralty Inlet, the longest fiord in the world at 370 km.
Arctic Bay experiences a tundra climate, with long, very cold winters and short, cool to cold summers. July is the only month with an average low temperature of above freezing. The record low temperature in Arctic Bay is minus 53 °C. Precipitation of less than 250 mm per year designates the Arctic Bay region as an Arctic Desert. Thawing permafrost in summer and melting sea ice can lead to flooding of the hamlet.
****Hoodoos are tall, thin spires of rock formed by erosion over thousands of years. They are formed by two weathering processes that work together to erode the edges of a rock formation. They typically have a softer rock topped by a harder, less easily eroded stone. The softer rock erodes faster than the hoodoo cap, creating unique shapes.
Demographics, Education and Health
Arctic Bay boasts a population of around 1,000 people, 85% of whom are Inuit.
The community is served by the single Kindergarten to Grade 12 Inuujaq School, which has an enrollment of about 200 students. The student population is almost entirely Inuit, and the spoken first language is Inuktitut. There is also a Nunavut Arctic College host site where the Nunavut Teacher Education (NTEP) is taught - and probably where our friend Audrey worked.
The Arctic Bay Health Centre services Arctic Bay. The facility accommodates basic medical services, administrative offices, social services, community health and counselling services. Visiting specialists provide physician consultations, dental and eye services, psychological, psychiatric and physical therapy and rehabilitation.
The Qikiqtani General Hospital, a 22-bed acute care facility in Iqaluit, services the Baffin Island Region of Nunavut. The hospital serves approximately 16,000 people living in the remote parts of the region, which is home to twelve communities spread over approximately one million square kilometres.
We later discovered that our Frobisher Hotel in Iqaluit is a base for those visiting the hospital from remote parts of the region. This would probably explain why the hotel foyer was full of patients. Why they were camped on the floor, however, is still a mystery.
Wildlife
Arctic Bay is home to a wide variety of wildlife. Mammals include Arctic hares, marmots, lemmings, arctic foxes, caribou, polar bears, arctic tundra wolves, beluga whales, orcas, bowhead whales, narwhals, seals, and walruses.
Birdlife is also prolific and includes black-legged kittiwake, thick-billed murre, gyrfalcon, northern fulmar, king eider, pomarine jaeger, and long-tailed jaeger.
Arctic Bay History at a Glance
For nearly 5,000 years, the Arctic Bay region was occupied by nomadic ancestors of the Inuit people who came here because of the excellent hunting resources.
In 1872, a whaling ship called "Arctic," captained by William Adams from Scotland, passed through the area, giving it the English names Arctic Bay and Adams Sound.
In 1911, Captain Bernier of Canada arrived here in his sailing boat, also called "Arctic", to establish and proclaim sovereignty over the region's High Islands. At that time, Norway was also trying to claim the region.
The community as it stands today was established with the opening of a Hudson's Bay Company post in 1927. It closed the following year, forcing local Inuit to travel 240 km to Pond Inlet or 450 km to Igloolik to conduct trade.
Hostilities of World War II made Arctic Bay a useful military base, and a joint Canada-US weather station was opened there in 1941. It is the oldest building standing in Arctic Bay today.
The first school was opened in 1959. Medical and housing facilities were constructed in the 1960s. To consolidate the nomadic Inuit, the Government of Canada refused to provide social assistance money to Inuit families living off the land. As a result, most local people settled into the community in the late 1960s, with the last family moving off the land in 1971.
In October 1976, the hamlet of Arctic Bay was founded. In October of the same year, a lead-zinc mine opened 32 km from Arctic Bay in the small community of Nanisivik. It was the first mine in the world north of the Arctic Circle. Until its closure in 2006, the Nanisivik Mine provided Arctic Bay with top-class air and marine links to the rest of the outside world. It also provided "permanent" employment to local Inuit.
The closure of the mine and the depopulation of the community came as a shock to many Arctic Bay Inuit who thought that the mine "would last forever". The town was demolished. Former residents hoped to bring housing from Nanisivik to Arctic Bay, but this was banned due to lead-zinc contamination. However, a church was relocated and still stands proudly in the Arctic Bay hamlet.
A naval facility was planned for Nanisivik port to bolster Canadian presence in the Arctic. The original plans were downgraded after geotechnical problems increased the costs. Nine years after construction of the re-fueling base began, there are still doubts about its completion date.
In late June 2024, CTV News, Vancouver reported, "Nearly a decade behind schedule, the Canadian military’s long-promised naval refuelling station in the High Arctic could open as early as this summer, albeit with restrictions on the facility's operations and serious questions about its long-term viability".
The mine, military base and weather station however, contributed to transforming the community into a predominantly wage-employed society. Today, tourism and food processing of caribou and fish are still important industries.
From what we could see, the hamlet of Arctic Bay, like those in Siberian Russia, must be subsidised significantly by the Canadian government. People were well-dressed (many wearing designer-label gear) and appeared to live a very reasonable lifestyle.
Sadly alcohol, although self-prohibited in the hamlet, continues to pose enormous problems.
A RELAXED AFTERNOON
Perfect Yet Perilous...
A pleasant aspect of our trip was having time to chill out (not literally) and undertake some of the more mundane travel duties - like washing and re-organising our suitcases. Like many Canadian hotels we stayed in, Taqqut Inn had full laundry facilities, including clothes dryers, a blessing for travellers. I had time to take walks alone, while Alan preferred to read back to the hotel. Unlike our other trips, we had no commitments or deadlines. Some photos taken from my walks are below.
Our day was very relaxed. We had time to talk with Tom, Shantelle, and other hotel guests, some of whom were on business. We were especially interested in how we would fill in time on our return to the city of Iqaluit. After all, we had a very long five days in a city that had given such a poor impression on our forward journey. We laughed when some people we spoke with said, "The best thing to do in Iqaluit? Hey, just get out of the place!" It was sort of funny, but although we didn't say much to each other, I know we were both worried about the situation.
Shantelle had also told us a disturbing story about another Australian guest who had stayed with them the previous year. Like us, Caroline (name withheld) was a "non-hunting tourist". Interested in the village's way of life and the region's wildlife, she organised a tour to camp out on the ice for six days. After two days of camping in the extreme cold, she decided the tour was not for her and requested to return to Arctic Bay. One of the guides agreed to take her back.
Spring can be perilous in any Arctic region. And Arctic Bay was no exception. Sudden snow melts can cause large chunks of frozen lakes or fields to break off at any time or form ravines, leaving people stranded until they can find a way around the obstacle.
Caroline was returning to Arctic Bay by snowmobile with her guide when they encountered such a situation - a deep, impassable ravine having been carved out of their trail. Telling her he could travel much faster on his own, he asked Caroline to dismount while he took off with the snowmobile to find another route back to the hamlet. And there she was, left with no transport, shelter or phone coverage amid frozen nowhere for six very long hours. It must have been terrifying. The extreme cold and possibility of frostbite and hyperthermia were real enough, but there was also the chance of more land and ice breaking away. And even more terrifying, the danger of a hungry polar bear finding her.
We are not sure how the rest of the story went, except that she was eventually picked up by the guide and delivered safely via another much longer route back to the hamlet. Caroline then spent the week at the Taqqut Hotel with Shantelle and Tom. Understandably, she was deeply disturbed by her experience.
DAY 3
More Adventures of a Perilous Type...
Coming a little earlier to the restaurant that morning, we noticed there was only one person having breakfast. A young man dressed in mandatory hunting fatigues sat staring into space. He didn't respond to our cheery greeting. We shrugged and organised our toast and fruit juice. And left him in peace. No sooner did we sit down than he quickly got up, crashed his plate onto the table, and stormed off. From what we could see, he had not eaten anything.
Later, we heard that the young man had a somewhat similar experience to Caroline's. He had paid considerable money to hire guides, equipment and ammunition for a ten-day hunting trip out on the Admiralty Bay floe edge.
While on the floe, the ice began to crack around the team, leaving them what had become a floating island of many square kilometres. With a strong wind, the island began to move quickly into Admiralty Inlet. The young man managed to find land, but tragically, the guide and his team lost all their equipment and two of their eight dogs. Mercifully, no human was killed.
Back on land, the hunter ordered the guide to use his satellite telephone to organise the charter of a helicopter back to Arctic Bay. Unbelievably, he would not agree to the guide and his team boarding the flight, leaving the hapless group and their six dogs alone while he flew back to Arctic Bay. Thankfully, the team arrived safely back at Arctic Bay some time later. We actually met them at the hotel the next morning.
The hunter was still at the Taqqut Hotel, but we never saw him again. Apparently, he locked himself in his room until he left Arctic Bay.
It was horrible to hear that he would not help his guide and team in this treacherous situation. Worse still, he blamed his guide and did not offer him a tip. Tips were essential to the guides, comprising a significant proportion of their profit. Yes, he would have been disappointed, but surely he would have been insured. After all, in such an extreme environment, these events are well outside of anyone's control.
Morning Tea with the Royal Canadian Mounted Police
There was no doubt about the northern Canadians. They really were a friendly, cruisy lot...
Arriving at the police station, everything was snowbound and the building appeared locked. Eventually, a young policeman answered the door. "Yes, what can I help you with?" he asked politely. "Oh, we are here for coffee with Steve!". "Are you? Well, come on in then!" he said, smiling. To our surprise, he didn't ask us for our credentials. Maybe we didn't look like criminals? But then again, what would a criminal be doing visiting the police?
Steve was also warm and welcoming. He and the young officer Matt were both based at Arctic Bay at the time. We understood that Steve was nearing retirement and doing "locum" jobs across hamlets in Nunavut, which he obviously knew very well.
We spent a delightful morning talking about the way of life and the challenges of living in a small remote community like Arctic Bay. Both officers had a refreshingly positive attitude to their work. In their opinion, the role of the RCMP was to help the community rather than "police it". It seemed they were involved in all sorts of extracurricular activities, ranging from attending emergencies to driving people to and from the airport or being a taxi service to the needy. And pleasingly, they actually liked the people in the community...
Steve talked extensively about the local Inuit people, for whom he had great respect. He asked us if we knew about the forced relocation from 1950 to 1975 of Inuit families from Quebec Province to Resolute and Grise Fiord, the two northernmost and, at the time, uninhabited locations in Canada. Yes, we had heard about forced Indigenous relocations from Roger Gruben at Tuktoyaktuk in the Northwest Territories, but we had never heard what had happened in the Qikiqtani region.
Steve outlined a shocking story, which we later looked up online. It was much worse than we could have imagined. The tragic events leading to the "Qikiqtani Truth Commission" report are detailed in the following blog entry on our visit to Resolute.
Before we left, Steve offered to take us for a drive the following day around the surroundings of Arctic Bay. Perhaps we could see some icebergs that were frozen into the bay? Obviously, it would depend on their workload and/or weather conditions. Oh, and he would contact one of the police officers Quentin, based at Resolute, to look after us. We were delighted.
DAY 4 - MORNING AT THE TAQQUT HOTEL
Early in the morning, our hotel was filled with dismay and concern about the sledding incident at the ice floe edge. The atmosphere was palpable. The guide was at our hotel, talking animatedly with staff, guests and numerous locals. Highly distraught, he told of the loss of his equipment and, of more concern, the loss of two of his dogs. Not only had he lost his equipment, but it would cost over CAD 13,000 to replace. And even if he had the means to pay, he would not been able to purchase the equipment and have it delivered before the end of the season. And the problem was the same with his lost dogs. Furthermore, his income for the rest of the season was gone. Everyone was visibly upset.
Alan and I expressed our condolences. We felt so sorry for him. But so many questions stayed in our minds. "How did they get off the ice floe and get home with no sleds?" However, it was not the time to ask, and we never found out. Interestingly, there was no sign of the hunter.
Events such as this reinforced the degree of difficulty people have living in such an extreme environment. Shantelle and Tom had told us about their car, which had broken down several months before. There were no mechanics at Arctic Bay, and they could not get parts until the ice thawed in spring.
Purchasing a vehicle of any description in such a location is no easy process. Delivery was the main issue. There is no road in and out of Arctic Bay to major centres, so heavy and bulky freight, such as vehicles, etc., must be brought in by Sealift*****. In the meantime, Shantelle and Tom had to borrow a vehicle or walk to the local Northern store to buy goods. Running a hotel without a vehicle in that extreme climate must have been extraordinarily difficult for them.
*****Sealift (also a military term for delivering weaponry) is critical to survival in remote Arctic communities. It is the primary way to resupply isolated communities in northern Canada with essential heavy goods like food, fuel, vehicles, building materials, and medical supplies. This is the most common method used for the coastal communities of northern Canada due to the lower cost and the larger capacity of ships and barges over aircraft. An annual occurrence in the Arctic, the Sealift is usually performed between July and October, when the sea is ice-free.
Note: Shantelle and Tom eventually had their vehicle repaired. A mechanic visiting Arctic Bay for another matter ordered a new engine and repaired it for them. The hotel truck was replaced with a new vehicle that arrived by Sealift.
AFTERNOON TOUR OF ARCTIC BAY SURROUNDINGS
Steve, having kindly offered to take us out in his police vehicle for a tour, had been out with Matt in the morning trying to locate the icebergs they told us about - but were unable to find them. Furthermore, work duties meant they could not take us until after 3.30 pm.
In the meantime, Tom had organised to borrow a truck to take us out. Now we have two offers! For people who had not booked any tours, we were very fortunate. But who would we go with? We knew Tom and Shantelle were looking forward to a few hour's break from their hotel duties. But then again, Steve had kindly offered first and had followed up with us. In the end, it would have been easy to offend everyone. And we probably did... To cut a painfully long story short, we opted to go with Tom and Shantelle. Steve was very generous, saying we would be more comfortable in their vehicle anyway.
We set off in fine style after Tom had completed his lunch preparation and cooking duties.
Tom did a great job organising our route. Our trip was staged in three legs. Firstly, we would head south over steep mountains to the southernmost point of western Arctic Bay, on the edge of Admiralty Inlet. Secondly, we would retrace our route back through the Arctic Bay hamlet and head north across an isthmus of land to Victor Bay. The third leg would take us southwest along the airport road to a viewing spot that looked back onto Arctic Bay hamlet.
To the Southern Point of Arctic Bay & Admiralty Inlet
Our borrowed utility truck looked very sturdy. But the going was very difficult for Tom. Our route took us over an unsealed steep mountain track, and how he managed to steer the truck up the steep and slippery slopes, with sheer drops below, was beyond us. The utility swung and slewed at awful angles, but eventually, we made it to the top. The weather looked ominous too, but it certainly didn't deter Tom. I must say I was very pleased it was him driving and not me!
We came to a great viewing point on the shores of Arctic Bay where we could look back onto the hamlet. Obligingly, Tom stopped often to allow Shantelle and me time to take photos. Arctic Bay looked so tiny, the village a mere sprinkling of faded dots on a beautiful arched frozen, moulded bay.
Further on our journey, we came across a dog sledding base. No dogs or people were around, but plenty of covered dog sleds used by the tourist hunters. Made from heavy wood, they looked like a load to pull for the dogs, especially as the hunters we met (we didn't meet any women hunters) were big men. And then there was ammunition, tents and food supplies to carry, as well as heating equipment. People we met later in our travels in Resolute told us that the dogs were often rubbed raw from their harnesses and exhausted when they returned from their arduous trips.
A picnic area beside Arctic Bay Harbour was almost totally covered with snow. Almost an amusing site, I thought about Audrey's offer to take us on a picnic. Looking at the sad, isolated spot, I decided it was not for us at that time of the year.
As we drove along the stretch toward the point of Admiralty Inlet, Shantelle told us about the summer months - the time of the midnight sun - when Inuit children as young as four or five years old walk unaccompanied by adults from Arctic Bay along this route around 2:00 am, for a swim. And then walk back! The route was a ten km return trip over a steep mountain. No wonder these kids were tough! And I guess they need to be to survive in this extreme climate.
The afternoon clouded in, and huge purple snowstorm clouds looked threatening as we drove back toward Arctic Bay. As often happens in the extreme Arctic, there was no colour, just a monochrome environment of silver and varying shades of grey-black, which actually enhanced the dramatic nature of rugged surroundings.
Our drive took us back through the outskirts of Arctic Bay, where we noticed new dwellings being constructed. Long poles were indicative of the systems vital for ensuring the stability of buildings in a permafrost environment. The poles are mostly driven several meters into the ground.
From what we saw in some villages in Russia, where buildings had collapsed and power poles had fallen, the extensive permafrost posed terrible problems.
North to Victor Bay
Our trip took us back through "town", where again, we had great views of another aspect of the hamlet and surrounding mountains. Shrouded in heavy mist, we could just see the tip of King George Mountain.
During our trip, we discussed local life in Arctic Bay and also our lives in Australia. It was all so very different. And this is why travelling to such exotic places in the Arctic is so appealing. Shantelle and Tom were interested in a trip to Australia. They had obviously discussed this with the unfortunate tourist Caroline during her stay with them, and we chatted excitedly about meeting up again - but next time in Australia. But little did we know...
Our fourteen km trip to Victor Bay was through a flat but beautiful tundra. The gravel road was in good condition, and our trip took no time. On arriving at Victor Bay, we came across a group of cabins with dog sleds. There was no one around. Perhaps they were out on a tour? It was a curiously eerie feeling.
Again the scenery was monochrome, but the sky revealed the faintest pink tones. The bay was an opalescent white. It was a truly beautiful environment.
Tom walked around the surroundings while Shantelle and Alan sat in the warmth of the car. It was very cold - far too cold for walking. Tom, being vastly more agile and adept than me at handling snowy conditions, took off at the rate of knots while I stumbled about, endlessly plummeting into snow drifts, sometimes up to my waist. Taking photos soon became my preferred option.
Along the Airport Road to a Viewing Point
Our final leg of the trip took us southeast along Airport Road to a particularly lovely viewing point. Behind was the tall peak of King George Mountain.
Freezing conditions set in as we drove along the snaking road - the only "highway" in Arctic Bay. A low fog hovered, and we all thought we were in for a heavy snowfall.
Looking over the distant airport, I felt a pang of remorse. The next day, we would fly out to our ultimate destination, Resolute Bay.
Our four days in Arctic Bay had just disappeared. It only seemed like yesterday that we arrived, so full of anticipation and excitement.
Steve had kindly offered to take us to the airport. I'm not sure what we would have done without him, but we probably could have found a lift with other travellers. After all, we found there were no taxis in Arctic Bay anyway!
As we drove back to our hotel, Tom said he would like to make us a special meal for our last dinner with them. Would we like some salmon with couscous and fresh vegetables? We love fish, so it was a perfect choice.
Back at the Hotel
Tom and Shantelle gave us a wonderful tour, an opportunity to appreciate the surroundings, and an insight into life at Arctic Bay. On the way back to the hotel, they called the Northern store. While they had the utility, they would stock up on as many supplies as possible. It was yet another reminder of how difficult it would be not to have a vehicle.
Tom made us a splendid evening meal. He also prepared some stuffed bell peppers, to which I have since become addicted. He was kind enough to provide me with the recipe, and I make them regularly back home. And Shantelle made some chocolate cupcakes topped with exquisite red icing roses.
It was a lovely finale to a great day and a wonderful stay in Arctic Bay.
Just a glass of wine would have been a nice touch!
DAY 5
Farewell, Arctic Bay...
Shantelle was worried about the weather. "If you can see the airport from here, then it's clear enough for flights to depart", she said. We couldn't see the airport. Heavy fog and clouds had settled in, making visibility to the airport impossible. Conditions were not looking good.
But it was early, and who knew what the weather would be like by 11:30 am when our flight to Resolute was scheduled to depart?
As we chatted over breakfast, Shantelle told us about one guest stranded in Arctic Bay for almost three weeks. She was due to get married within the month and flew out just in time to attend her wedding. Well, things could have been worse, we concluded. But we desperately wanted to spend our precious time left in Resolute. It was yet another reminder of what was starting to sound like five days wasted on our return journey via Iqaluit...
Steve called us a little later. The weather had improved. Flights were departing, and his offsider Chris would be taking us to the airport. It was a mixed feeling. Going on to Resolute was exciting, but leaving our friends at Arctic Bay was sad. We consoled ourselves. Hopefully, we would be seeing them again next year in Australia. But strange things can happen...
We bade Shantelle and Tom a fond farewell. We really enjoyed Arctic Bay, their welcoming hotel and their warm company. We promised to stay in contact, and we have.
Our transport to the airport in a police paddy wagon was very amusing. If you are not a prisoner, that is... It was not exactly comfortable, and there was no way with all the window bars, you could be a prisoner and photographer! We then understood what Steve had said about our trip the day before - we would be more comfortable in Tom and Shantelle's borrowed vehicle. How right he was!
On a blizzarding, freezing morning, we departed Arctic Bay.
Yes, perfect. Yet perilous...
Werner Jagusch
2024-12-05
I thoroughly enjoyed your visit to Arctic Bay. I am still one of your faithful fans.
crowdywendy
2025-01-01
Thank you for your kind comments Werner! It makes my day to see that people still read my blogs!