Police Interrogation: Oh, and Welcome to Pevek!

Tuesday, March 20, 2018
Pevek, Chukotka Autonomous Okrug, Russian Federation
EARLY MORNING ARRIVAL IN PEVEK....
4.30 am, Monday 19th March 2018
Dog tired after our gruelling 16 hour journey along the ice road from Bilibino, we flopped into our hotel room. It was probably a good thing we were too fatigued to take in much of our surrounds. It was still dark and our room was uncomfortably cold. But like most Russian hotels, it had tea and coffee making facilities. "Let's have some coffee before we try to get some sleep" suggested my weary friend. "You can have coffee. I'm having a scotch" I announced firmly. "But it's early morning" protested Alan. "No, it is very late evening" I insisted. Needless to say, Alan didn't take too much convincing and after several scotches we fell into a deep torpor, not waking up until around 9:00 am - unheard of for us.
Alex arrived agitated. "My room is cold and dirty. And someone has vomited on my bedspread!" he gasped. He was right. The hotel was not great. It reminded us very much of the old hotels we used to stay in during our early travels in China. The plumbing didn't work; there was no water pressure and the shower leaked into the main living area. Even by late morning, our room was still cold and dark; the barred windows giving it a depressing "prison cell ambiance". 
Looking outside was not helpful. Thick snow was battered up against the window panes and the day looked bitterly cold and miserable. People disguised as "coats with feet" trudged along the pathways, only their upper bodies visible above the massively deep trenches of snow.
Alex was keen to change hotels. Our problem was that to his knowledge, we were staying in the only hotel in town! At that stage however, we were not overly concerned. After all, we were only staying in Pevek for three nights before flying east to Anadyr....
We had not eaten properly for quite some time and we were ravenous. Like Bilibino, the hotel did not have a restaurant and we readily agreed with Alex that our first mission was to find a decent cafe (in fairness, the hotel staff had made us some sandwiches for which we were grateful). Although it was Alex's first visit to Pevek, he had a very good sense of direction and a great love of food. For such a slight person, he had an astonishing appetite and we always knew his restaurant choices would be good. And his decision that morning was spot on. It was to be our introduction to the Romashka - or Camomile Cafe.
WELCOME TO THE ROMUSHKA - OR WAS IT THE POMULUKA?
The Romushka Cafe* was a really nice little place; cosy, pleasantly furnished with friendly staff and good food. And best of all, it had free-for-one-hour wifi, something we came to really appreciate in the wifi-less hotels in Pevek.
While we were enjoying those irresistable Russian pancakes and good coffee, Alex chatted easily with a young couple sitting opposite us with two small children. They were apparently moving to Pevek and were there for a few days to find suitable accommodation. We wondered why such a young couple would move to remote Pevek but we found out later that the husband was apparently being stationed there on business for two years.
A jubilant Alex returned announcing the couple had recommended a much better hotel, on the other side of town. "We can't stay in the dirty, cold place we are in. We must move". And so we did.
*During our stay in Pevek, Alan one day asked innocently whether we would be having a meal at the "Pomaluka Cafe". Initially perplexed, Alex was suddenly overcome with uncontrollable mirth. Oh, you mean the Romushka!!!! Well, Alan could be well forgiven for pronouncing the name as he did as this is what it looks like in Cyrillic - "Pомашка"! 
And after all, in the English alphabet those "p's" should be pronounced as "p's" and not "r's"! And that funny looking Cyrillic"W" does look like an "l" and a "u" joined - and definitely not a "sh"! From that time on, every time we spoke about the Romushka Cafe, Alex would tease us mercilessly.
A MOVE TO THE REAL PEVEK HOTEL
As it happened, we were apparently not staying at the Pevek Hotel as we thought but another smaller, private establishment. The real Pevek Hotel (otherwise known as the Pevek Municipal Hotel) was actually the one suggested by the couple in the Romushka. It was a few kilometers away, and quite close to the coast. We would Alex said, need two taxis to move us and all our luggage. We opted to walk, putting our massive amount of gear into one taxi. As we were to find out, nowhere is very far away in Pevek. But what we didn't bank on was just how bitterly cold it could be walking for any length of time outside in these temperatures. It was apparently minus 39 degrees C.
Tired and irritable, we were not keen at all to move. The thought of re packing and unpacking all our gear was just too much of an effort. But thankfully, Alex insisted. Not surprisingly, the staff was not at all happy with our decision and it was hardly a fond farewell.
Our new hotel however, was so much better. Alex was concerned though that our new room was inferior to his and wanted us to change. Apparently, once a room is assigned to a person or couple in Russia (and we imagine it would be much stricter in the closed town of Pevek), then it cannot be changed. We were quite happy where we were but Alex managed to talk the initially quite reserved manager Lilia* into changing us to another room. Another lot of unpacking, repacking and unpacking.... And somehow I had lost my toothbrush....
Our new room however was far superior; larger with ample windows and nicely, if very simply furnished with lots of hanging and storage space. Furthermore, it included tea and coffee making facilities, and a small dining table and chairs - and it was spotlessly clean. By the end of our stay, we became eternally grateful to the insistent Alex as we were to spend considerably more time in Pevek than we had anticipated.
As we sat looking out of our hotel window at this very foreign looking settlement perched right on a frozen Arctic Ocean, we realised that it was our first real opportunity since we had arrived, to have a closer look at Pevek town. It was perhaps even more exhilarating than on our arrival to Bilibino. 
Despite all odds, we had finally reached our ultimate destination: Pevek, the most northern settlement in all of the Russian Federation, and in all its bitter winter glory. 
Alan was always adamant that he would not travel to Chukotka unless the trip included Pevek. His ambition was realised at long last.
 *We were very grateful to the manager Lilia for taking the somewhat difficult decision to upgrade us to another room. We were to become very friendly with her and two other staff Lydia and Nastia during our time at the Pevek Hotel. Again, once we got to know them, they were fantastically friendly and helpful.
AN INTRODUCTION TO THE CHAUN REGION AND PEVEK TOWN
Chaun Region
The Chaun Region is located in the far north-west of Chukotka Okrug. Spanning a massive 58,200 square kilometers, it houses a population of just 8,600 people and is interestingly the most developed and densely populated region in all of Chukotka. The main industries are gold mining together with emerging opportunities in silver, tungsten, antimony, mercury, as well as reindeer herding, fishing and some agriculture.  Thanks to its mining industries, the Chaun Region was the first in Chukotka have roads, power plants and transmission lines built. Similarly, its road system is better developed than anywhere else in Chukotka with villages linked to Pevek by unpaved roads and ice roads in winter. Other transport is by air or sea. 
Chaun experiences a typical Arctic climate with long frosty winters and short (two to three months) summers. The average annual temperature in the Pevek area is a chilly minus 10.4 C! Even the warmest summer days do not often exceed 7 - 8 degrees C and winter temperatures can drop to minus 30 C or lower. Annual rainfall is a mere 150 to 200 mm and by the end of September the ground is covered with snow. Winter usually brings strong winds, the strongest wind as mentioned being the "Uzhak" which can rise from zero to 30 meters per second in less than one hour.
Chaun Region fronts onto the East Siberian Sea, a place of heavy ice conditions, storms, fogs and strong tidal currents. Even in summer there are ice flows near the shoreline. Similarly, Chaun's rivers remain frozen for most of the year. The Chaun tundra vegetation which reflects its severe Arctic climate, is mostly dominated by mosses, lichens, sedges, low shrubs and cotton grasses. Animal wildlife includes bears (Brown and Polar), Arctic foxes, wolverines, sables and a vast array of bird life. Sea life includes whales, seals and walrus.
Pevek 
Pevek is the administrative centre for the Chaun region. Located on Chaunskaya Bay in the East Siberian Sea, the town is squeezed between the Arctic Ocean and the treeless tundra hills behind.
Pevek was first settled by Chukchi and Yukagir tribes. It is thought that its very name is derived from the Chukchi word "peekiney" meaning "rotten place" or "foul smelling mountain". Legend has it that the unusual name appeared after a particularly bloody fight between Chukchi and Yukagir tribes, which covered kilometers of land with decaying corpses. For centuries, the place apparently remained deserted; the Chukchi refusing to settle there, using the land only for grazing reindeer. 
Pevek, like most cities in Chukotka is a relatively new Russian settlement. Seafarers' sightings of the Chaun coastline were recorded as early as 1764 (by merchant and traveller Nikita Shalaurov) but the actual foundation of Pevek began in the 1930's with the active exploration of the North-East Passage. In 1933, Pevek became the centre of the newly organised Chaun region of Chukotka National District.  
In 1936-37 geological expeditions discovered rich tin and gold deposits, and the port became a vital transport conduit for mining equipment and vehicles. As the mining industry grew, the population of Pevek increased and by 1949 the town boasted 1,447 permanent residents. From 1939 to the mid 1950's Chaun region was home also to the prisoners of Stalin's infamous gulag camps. The two largest camps North and West housed prisoners working in the uranium mines, some four hours by vehicle from Pevek.  Like the gulag sites of Heta and Dneprovsky which we witnessed in Magadan in 2017, the hastily abandoned barracks are apparently almost fully intact. Having experienced the bitter climate of Pevek during our travels, the thought of those poor wretched prisoners does not bear thinking about.
In the 1960's Pevek became a major industrial centre for Chukotka, with a growing port, transport network and construction industry. In 1947, construction began on the Chaun's coal fired power station and in 1950, Pevek became an official urban community. In 1965, the transmission line to Bilibino was completed and by 1980 the population exceeded 13,000 people. 
Like many other towns in the Far East, Pevek's population declined rapidly after the demise of the Soviet system. 
Tin production became unprofitable and many of the mines closed down. Nevertheless, the town is still a major hub for productive gold mining and mineral exploration.  
Today, the town houses only 5,800 permanent residents. Pevek is however an important transport hub for Chukotka. It is still a significant port on the Northern Sea Route situated on a natural bay sheltered by the proximity of the large Ayon Island, and it has newly constructed winter ice roads to Bilibino to the south-west and also to Cape Schmidt and on to Egvekinot to the east. Furthermore, Pevek boasts a sizeable airport, the second largest in the Okrug and which is located at Apapelgino, a village built for the airport community some 17 kilometers (20 - 30 minutes by scheduled bus along a good unpaved road) from Pevek. Flights operate to Moscow, Magadan, Bilibino and Anadyr.
Arctic weather conditions however, make transport especially in the colder months highly unreliable. The port is frozen over for much of the year and frequent high winds and blizzards often result in delayed or cancelled flights. And of course in summer the melted ice roads are unable to support any traffic.
The old coal fired power station is scheduled for demolition following the construction of a unique new floating nuclear power plant which is planned to begin operation the early 2020's. Demolition works are planned also for many of the older buildings and extensive renovations scheduled for parks and children's play centres.
Today, Pevek because of its strategic position and military sensitivity remains a Closed Zone where even Russian people must have a Special Permit for entry.
A QUIET AFTERNOON - AND AN INVITATION!
Tired after our long journey and repeated unpacking and packing, we opted for a quiet time for the rest of our day. It was a particularly cold afternoon and a brief walk around our hotel was quite enough.  
We enjoyed yet another good meal for our dinner at the Romashka before catching a taxi back to our hotel. As our taxi slowed down, a large ATV swerved in front of us making quite a statement that we were to stay right where we were. 
In no time, four robust looking officials alighted the vehicle and were making their way to our car. I joking murmured to Alan "Gosh, if you didn't know better you'd think this was the KGB....". Well, it wasn't actually the KGB but it was the Border Security Police, an arm of the Federal Security Service or FSS**. 
An official stared inside our taxi at us. "Passports" he demanded. Fortunately, we had them with us but it took the poor officer quite some time to locate our visas (at the time we had three previous visas for Russia). "You will come to the Border Security Headquarters at 9:00 am tomorrow morning" he snapped.
Being in a Closed Russian Zone, we knew that the interview was just procedural - but it was quite intimidating. Alex did his best to allay any fears saying "This is quite normal procedure for Chukotka". Well, yes we knew that but we were also very much aware that we did not have printed copies of our Special Permits, only those received by Alex on-line - and at the last minute....  
**The former KGB (Committee for State Security - Russia's well known intelligence organisation) was dissolved in 1991 and split into the Federal Security Service (FSS) and the Foreign Intelligence Service of the Russian Federation.
A GRUELLING INTERROGATION - AND AN EMBARRASSING SLIP UP....
We arrived at the Border Security Police Station on the dot of 9:00 am, thankful we had opted to take a taxi as it was quite a distance from our hotel on the higher southern side of town. 
Not surprisingly, you don't get too far inside a police headquarters office in Russia. A tiny mud room also housed an official counter area where were we told to take off our outer clothes and surrender any watches, phones, cameras - or anything else digital. 
It was not friendly and I cursed myself for taking my phone and camera with me. Stumbling as usual in taking off my gloves, mittens, hat and coat I also managed to drop most of my backpack contents on the floor. Yes, it was rather pathetic and did not contribute to the noticeably hostile atmosphere.
Alan was beckoned, or rather summonsed, first through a large heavy door. "One at a time. Not you!" commanded a fierce looking red headed official; both of his hands held up near my face, palms and fingers outstretched. I didn't need any convincing. This was really intimidating.   
To my relief, we were all sat together in a large and daunting empty room and on the other side of an equally imposing black desk. A handsome, rather gentle faced young officer who from the submissive behaviour of his peers was obviously very senior, eventually sat opposite us and through Alex's interpretation explained that he was going to interview Alan and I individually. We could however stay together during the process. I felt slightly better but it was hardly a relaxing atmosphere....
The questions were complex, detailed and lengthy. "Why were we in Pevek? Where exactly were we travelling to and from? Provide all details please, with exact dates and times. Where were we educated? What year did we graduate? What were the subjects we majored in? What were our parent's full names? Where were they born and what year?" The questions went on and on. Then they were repeated several times but in a different format. We had to really be on our toes not to get confused ourselves.
Russian visas applications are notorious for asking questions with an impossible amount of detail but fortunately we had filled out enough applications during the last years to have had this information recorded to the last minutae. And we had filled each application out many times as the on-line form format was so tricky we often had to repeat the process three or four times. It was also a good thing I write blogs as goodness knows how anyone could remember such intricate travel information. We were proud of ourselves that we could almost recite the answers off by heart!
Initially, we were confused by being asked so many seemingly meaningless questions in so many different formats. It was only later that we realised the officer's methodology was very clever. The information probably didn't matter, just the consistency of our replies. They had all this information from our visas applications anyway. We guessed, it was merely a means of establishing we were who we said we were. 
And all the time, the young officer wrote detailed notes on a paper pad, but looking at us right in the eye as he continued his interrogation. 
His last question asked us to list every country we had visited during the last ten years, including dates of entry. Ahh, we knew this one off pat! Happily we recited every visited country we could think of before he put his hand up with an exasperated "Enough!". I think we had exhausted him. And I think I saw a wry smile form on side of his mouth.
The young man's body language changed accordingly. He seemed to relax ever so slightly and asked Alex what places we were intending to visit for the rest of the day. Alan obviously a bit more relaxed too, jokingly asked if it was possible for him to organise for us to visit a lookout above the town which we had been told was too difficult to reach because of the snow bound conditions. "No, I cannot take you there. It is too risky. But I could take you somewhere else that perhaps you would not like...." he said with a slight smile. I am sure he was joking but it sure had a chilling effect on both of us....
Our police officer then spent some time on the phone. He was apparently organising for us a personal tour of the Pevek Museum. One of the officer's wives was the director and she would be waiting for us, he informed. 
We were escorted to the police headquarters door by the senior officer. On leaving several of the other police came to say goodbye; the ferocious looking red headed fellow grasping my hands with both of his, smiling and formally nodding "Прощай" or goodbye. It was all a bit mind blowing..... Yes, we were on a very steep learning curve in Pevek.
There was no doubt about our sheer sense of relief to have our interrogation behind us. But it was not the end of our relations with the Border Police. Nor was it the end of our constant encounters with them during our stay in Pevek. But as we knew, it was of course their job to keep a close eye on us.... After all, there were no other foreigners to be seen and as we were to find out, very few ever visit Pevek town.
The Border Police headquarters are located at the top of rather a steep hill, and where the nicer buildings in Pevek are located. As we walked down the steep road, there was a sudden crash and moan. Alan had slipped over backwards, flat on his back and was sliding inevitably down the icy glass-like surface. Neither Alex nor I could provide any assistance. As soon as we tried to go to his aid, we fell too on the lethal road. And poor Alan - as soon as he tried to stand up, down he crashed again, with Alex and I skidding over around him.  
I could just imagine what the Border Police were saying. Looking back up the hill, they were all gathered outside the police building watching - and roaring laughing I would guess!
Note: The above photos bear no relationship with our Border Security Police Meeting. Not surprisingly, I have no photos of that event! 
VISIT TO THE CHAUN MUSEUM OF HISTORY
Poor Alan was suffering something awful after his fall. Together with his broken ribs, his bruised back was giving him a very hard time. Nevertheless, he agreed we should walk back to our hotel and then onto the museum; a distance of a few kilometers. And despite a feeble sun and clear blue sky, it was bitterly cold. 
After our police visit, we would have liked to spend some relaxed time exploring the town but there was no opportunity for that. The Border Police had rung Alex several times since we had left to see where we were. Apparently, the museum director Valentina was waiting for us. And anyway, where had we been?
A willowy, pretty young woman with lovely strawberry blond hair, was at the museum foyer to greet us. During our comprehensive tour of the museum, the friendly softly spoken Valentina went to great lengths to explain to us about the history of the establishment and the various exhibits. For a museum in such a remote town, it was very impressive institution.
The museum, which was founded in 1977 dedicates various exhibits to the history of the Chaun Region, a display of Chukotka petroglyphs, the history, present day life and clothing of the local indigenous people and their specialty of walruss tusk carving. A large hall is devoted to local minerals, another to the native birds and animals of the region. An exhibit was also devoted to the Chaun gulags.
The petroglyph displays were particularly interesting. Found around the Pegtymel River in east of Pevek and only 50 kilometers form the East Siberian Sea, they are thought to have been created between 1,000 BC and 1,000 AC. Depicting mostly dancing figures wearing mushroom shaped head dress they are thought to be symbolic of the use of what is more commonly known as "Fly Agaric" and which looked awfully like the highly poisonous white spotted, red capped fungi known to us as Amanita. These fungi were used for centuries for medical purposes, and also for their psychotrophic effect. Goodness knows how many people they must have killed as they are some of the most toxic mushrooms known.
The Gulag exhibit was especially well done with chilling displays of a prison cell, prisoners' clothing, old documents and photographs.. 
During the tour of the museum, the Border Security Police rang again. Valentina thought it was all very amusing, obviously allaying any concerns they may have had. It certainly did not worry us. After all, they were only doing their job and we were such obvious foreigners in a town which receives so very few tourists. But it was obvious we would not want to put a foot out of line in Pevek....
INTRODUCING THE ARABIKA CAFE....
Alex in true style had found another restaurant for our evening meal. The Arabika Cafe was quite close to our hotel and like the Romashka (Not-Pomaluka!), was cosy and cheerful with good food - and to Alex's delight, had a very charming young Chukchi waitress.
We were becoming very fond of the Russian tradition of soup followed by a salad - and their speciality Caesar Salad was fabulous. And to our delight, the restaurant had a good selection of local and overseas wines.
It had been a long and quite confronting day, and we were pleased to have some quiet time to chill out and enjoy our meal. But just who was that heavily dressed man sitting watching us at the end of the restaurant?
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