We decided to take another short drive up into the mountains before leaving Sicily.  This time we were after bread and a good ristorante, not another fortress.  Our hostess Nancy said that Isnello, a mountain town an hour’s drive from Cefalu, had a great panificio (for bread) and a couple of good restaurants, and our map suggested it would be a pleasant winding drive, so we headed off into the hills in warm sunshine.  By the time we got to Isnello, it was cloudy, breezy and a bit wet, but it was another pretty little town with some ruins at its apex.  Our “learning and discovery” for the day was that you cannot buy stamps at a post office.  Seems odd.

We found the bread shop and one of the restaurants for another good “inland” meal.  By inland, we mean focused on meats rather than seafood.  We also ordered just one course plus antipasti, having learned our lesson (repeatedly – we are not fast learners) the hard way.  In fact, we should have just shared one antipasti between us because we didn’t have room for dessert there (had to pass on the tiramisu) or even gelato when we returned to Cefalu.  We drove back on a different route and passed through Collesano, another small mountain town with a Norman ruin at its high point.  Along the way, we again navigated through a bunch of cattle being herded down the road, this time by a young man with an umbrella (a multi-use tool, as it had poured rain during our lunch).  The sun emerged again by the time we reached Cefalu, but the air was cool and there were few people along the waterfront walk.  Yesterday may have been our only chance to see swimmers.