Migran to Vigo 12 Miles, plus 3
We believe the bar below our room closed at 2:00am, but we think all the patrons moved outside, below our window, reveling until at least 3:30am!
We were moving around by 8:00.
After packing up (getting really easy with so few things), having a breakfast of yogurt and a banana on the balcony, we were on the road by 8:45.
We headed down toward the big shopping center and before we were able to follow the map that was drawn for us last night, we spotted a yellow arrow taking us on a gravel path into the woods, hard to ignore a yellow arrow!
With our best ‘we’re lost faces’ we were able to solicit directions, first from a cyclist, then a farmer working with hand tools in his field, for directions to the official Camino marker - 120.29 kilometers to Santiago. At this same intersection there was a shepherd trying to heard his flock into an enclosure, only half the flock was cooperating.
This whole morning there was a low overcast with intermittent mist, if there were spectacular vistas, they were hidden from us. We climbed nearly 1,500 feet along rural neighborhood roads and rocky rough trails through dense eucalyptus forests, which had large sections logged out.
In these 8 miles, there were no services and only a handful of pilgrims. Sitting on a rock in the middle of the forest, we took a break and split a banana. Our first and only coffee of the day came at Cafeteria Atenea in Iglesia San Salvador.
Leaving this town, we lost the coveted yellow arrows. We had been warned that in and out of Vigo would be difficult because of the lack of Camino signage. We followed a gravel path along a creek that was heavily traveled by local walkers and cyclists, but no pilgrims.
Without the miracle of GPS guiding us to our hotel, we would never have found our way into Vigo and eventually our hotel. Our first experience in Vigo was the very large and raucous crowds cheering for their soccer team in front of their stadium. We learned later that the Vigo team is RC Celta, which is the top tier of Spanish soccer, but usually at the bottom of that tier. Today they were playing Barcelona, the top team of the division.
Probably a mile or so beyond the stadium, the GPS led us right to the Hotel Vigo Los Galeones. Checking us in, they copied our passport info and stamped our Camino credentials. Our room was on the 5th floor, modern decor, queen bed, and TWO chairs.
After a brief rest, we headed down to city center and the harbor. We were impressed with the many cool modernistic-type sculpture monuments, sidewalk cafes, Sunday afternoon strollers and views over the harbor. At one of the several squares, we selected Canaveral for lunch. We had an avocado taco, an egg, and ham fratada. We felt it was a bargain at 26 euros.
We walked back UP the mile and a half to the hotel and cleaned up and tried to figure out where to eat on a Sunday night. We knew we didn’t want any more climbing and wouldn’t need a big dinner. After sitting down at the first place with sidewalk tables, we were informed they didn’t serve food. We had a glass of wine and small beer while trying to figure out Plan B.
It seemed that the only places that were open were packed with RC Celtic fans watching the match with Barcelona. They were definitely more bar atmosphere than restaurant. We kept walking, saying one more block. After probably six of those repeated conversations, we stumbled onto La Imperial, a perfect find.
There was a TV on and most, including our very nice waiter had one eye on the match. It was a very comfortable place. We ordered grilled octopus in oil and Padron peppers. While waiting, we were brought a tuna, pea & carrot salad-like appetizer. The octopus was great and we don’t think we will ever tire of the Padron peppers. For dessert, we were given a cookie and when we settled the bill, two truffles were sent along with us. Don’t think we have ever been served better.
Even in this nice restaurant environment, the place exploded when RC Celtic went up 1-0. Walking back to the hotel, at a corner with three bars, they went up 2-0, and those places also went crazy. We learned the next day that the locals won in a major upset 2-1.
Back to room for a little blogging and put an end to a pretty hard but great day.
2025-02-09