We Made It Out of Vigo!

Monday, June 05, 2023
Redondela, Galicia, Spain and Canary Islands
Vigo to Redondela 10.5 Miles
We had heard exiting Vigo was a challenge and many just give up and take a taxi out of town. We had several notes written on our itinerary, but worried if we could find our way out. When we checked into the hotel, the receptionist showed us a route on the city map, but when we asked again in the morning, a different receptionist pointed us a different way. We asked a few people and were offered unsolicited directions from a few others, but when one actually said the magic name of Rua Toledo, we knew we were close. You can’t trust FB posts, but one said that Rua Toledo would put you right on the Camino at the Immaculate Conception Church and there it was! The first arrow appeared.
Within minutes of the arrow, we saw the corner Cafe/Bar Arpemar. There were only a few patrons, but now that we had found “the Way”, we ordered two coffees and two breakfast tortillas (eggs and potatoes).
We had a huge 500 foot climb to break free of urban Vigo. We found ourselves on a flat plateau for six or seven miles above the harbor. It was a really nice walk with very nice houses and exquisite gardens for part of it and then wooded areas with a couple of waterfalls. Unfortunately, this is where we started to see more and more pilgrims. We were just a little over 100kms from Santiago and in order to get a Compostela (certificate of accomplishment) for walking the Camino, you must walk at least 100km. For “the purists”, it is difficult to have so many who do the minimum, do not carry their packs and fill up the beds that are meant for those who are walking long distances. It is the reality, and the sagger-slackers outnumber those who walk a full Camino carrying their packs. We have decided that should we do another Camino, we will never walk the 100km portions.
The typography map showed this day to be a steep ascent, followed by the flat plateau, with a really steep descent. The descent was brutal into Redondela.
Just before Redondela there was an impressive monastery. Thinking we would not be coming back that way, we walked up a steep incline only to find it closed.
The first umbrellas offering food and beverages looked so appealing that we made a beeline to it. Mark and Melissa from Dublin were there and we caught up a bit. It was a chaotic mess. The inside and outside were filled to the max and when you asked to be helped, the servers were rude and acted as if you had no right to be there. We finally got chicken tacos (really chicken fajitas), tuna salad and sangria. After several attempts to pay, we ended up going inside to pay. The first bar is never the best!
Our accommodation, A Boa Estrela Pension, was 10 minutes away, right on the Camino. We got checked in, 2nd floor private room with a shared bath with one other room.
We felt a little bad because the American woman we were sharing the bathroom with came knocking on our door before we got our packs off. She was super friendly, from San Diego, but she caught us off guard. She explained we were bathroom buddies and that she and her friend were done. We kind of shrugged her off since at that moment we needed a little space and down time. Never encountered her again.
We chilled in the room, both showered and did a little laundry. We hung our clothes out in the window ledge. After the hanging of the clothes, it was easy to spot our place from the narrow pedestrian street where the pension is located. 
 We wandered the city center streets with the intention of walking to the beach. Beautiful stroll along a channeled river which was full of large fish. Many locals were strolling here and we encountered a grandmother with her granddaughter. We asked them about the beach and the grandmother gave her granddaughter the opportunity to communicate to us in English, but Grandma definitely had the better English. She said it was nearly 5 km and not a great beach. We decided to spend time in the old town center. It was very impressive with lots of outdoor cafes and shopping.
We ran into Peter and Gudule from Rockville. This is Gudule’s 6th Camino and they were ending this one here in Redondela. We had a great conversation and became FB friends since we live close to one another. Hopefully, we will see them again.
We went to dinner at Restaurante Casa Consejo, less than a block from the pension. Sue had scallops on the half shell (actually attached)and Dave had grilled octopus, and we shared a mixed salad. Phenomenal and great service.
Back to pension in two minutes. Since we are right on the Camino, we should have a quick getaway in the morning.
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