Beautiful Pontevedra

Tuesday, June 06, 2023
Pontevedra, Galicia, Spain and Canary Islands
Redondela to Pontevedra 13.6 Miles
The A Boa Estrela Pension probably had 8 to 10 guests and doors were slamming and sounds of packing started at 6:00. We managed another hour of rest and we were on our way by 8:00.  We noticed that down in the small lobby/kitchen area there were seven roller bags ready to be shipped ahead to Pontevedra! We’ve been calling these pilgrims sagger-slackers, might change that to “Rollerbaggers”. 
Lots of up and down on the narrow city streets of Redondela.  Historically known as the aqueduct city, we passed under a couple of them.  It was difficult to know when we left the city and entered the suburbs and then the rural. The streets got wider, multi-story housing became more single family, and gardens grew into fields.
There was a short but very busy and fast highway before our first and only coffee stop in Cesantes. We bumped into Mark and Melissa there just as they were leaving. Melissa recommended the chocolate filled pastry - great recommendation, should have had two rather than splitting!
As we started to climb off the highway into the woods, a taxi dropped off two pilgrims, guess they weren’t up for the thee mile up hill from Redondela. Unfortunately for them, they missed some spectacular views looking down on the river valley below.
Intermittent breaks between the woods and rural roads. As we approached Arcade, there was a historical marker describing the old Galatian laundry system before there was running water. It was all made of stone, an 8’X8’, 2’ basin, fed by a small stream - todays community laundromat.   What made the stop extra cool was an adjacent pond with hundreds of frogs singing. The green frogs blended perfectly with the green vegetation covering the pond. You could only see them when they jumped. They were really LOUD.
Entering Arcade, you cross a very impressive stone bridge with a dozen arches.  A real photo stop for us and a couple dozen of our best friends - just kidding! 
The first, and really last town, that had services was Pontesampaio. Unfortunately, the Camino route was placed on a detour for street repair work. On the detour, we saw a couple of spots for lunch, but we passed them by, thinking ‘let’s get back on the official route’.  By the time that happened, all opportunities were behind us. This was the last chance for a real break until Pondevedra.
This would be our hottest day, temps in the mid 80’s.  There were at least three “oasis” stops. Entrepreneurs who had tables set up with snacks, Camino souvenirs and bottled drinks.  We knew we didn’t have enough water to make it to Pondevedra, so we bought a bottle from one of the vendors.
On this stretch there was a team of about six supporting a wheelchair bound pilgrim. They pushed him on the more level and gravel sections and on the steeper, rocky places they would carry him and the wheelchair separately. Thankfully for them, and all of us, it was in the woods and mostly shaded.
We caught up with Mark and Melissa and walked with them several kilometers as we approached Pontevedra. They were undecided how far they would be going, both having some foot issues. We took a short break and they moved on.  
Finally entering Pontevedra, we were in need of food and drink and getting our packs off.  We took the first place we saw which was the Sirius Bar, seriously. We had the lunch plate for 7 euro and added two cold beers. One plate was breaded chicken fillets and the other, stewed chicken, sides of salad and fries.
The yellow arrows took us to edge of old city center.  From there we followed the GPS down to our private residence, our overnight. It was a condo on the 5th floor.  The owner, Maria Jesus San Martin, buzzed us in and we took the elevator up. She was renting one bedroom and bath of her rather large flat.  It kinda felt like a B&B.
We cleaned up and washed a load of clothes in Maria’s machine, with no dryer, we hung the clothes on the outdoor lines, off her kitchen window. 
We headed into the heart of the old town which had several squares, all lined with sidewalk cafes, which was great, except they were all full.  One place, we waited 15 minutes and no service, so we moved on. Another place had 15 tables and one server who was also working the bar, so we moved on.  We ended up at Bar Estrella, a block off a main square and got service and a couple vino blancos within minutes. It was owned by a Panamanian who had been here for 16 years and is very proud of the Estrella.
As pilgrims, we went into Iglesia de La Virgin Peregrina, a large church located on a square by the same name. We got stamps there. Uniquely, the floor of this church is shaped like the Camino scallop shell.
Still in the city historic center, we spotted the Borana Restaurante. We had a sidewalk table and a very attentive waiter.  Ordering from a tapas menu, we thought smaller portions, so ordered three things: salad with shrimp, sardines, tuna, an order of salmon avocado toast and grilled shrimp. It was all delicious but enough for four people! Embarrassed to say, there were not any leftovers.
We stopped for a night cap at Botica, the most lively place we had seen.  The sidewalk seating had to accommodate 100 people and it was at capacity.  Looking around, we were the only ones there over 30. 
Only a few blocks from the apartment, we headed there to get our clothes off the line and called it a day.
Other Entries

Comments

2025-02-07

Comment code: Ask author if the code is blank