Caldas de Reís to Padrón 12 Miles plus 1

Thought we would sleep like babies with our first soft bed. Didn’t happen. We were on a busy street with traffic all night, and was also just one of those nights.

On the Camino by 8:30. We crossed a pretty old bridge and then began a climb on small paths out of town. At about 1/2 mile, a huge tour bus unloaded 40 people. We knew our timing was all wrong.  It was difficult to have so many people on these small paths trying to outdo each other.

We soon met up with Mark and Melissa from Dublin and walked with them for several miles. The scenery today was similar to yesterday with trellised grapevines, beautiful houses constructed of large, stone-cut blocks, corn and other crops. Very picturesque. We climbed up to and through many small towns. It started to rain and we had to put our rain jackets and pack covers on. We were determined not to make the same mistake as yesterday and stop at the first bar/restaurant. Mark and Melissa stopped, but soon caught up to us saying the cafe was over crowded. We did stop at the next town and had a good crowd but it was not overwhelming. We ate our tortilla sandwiches made by our hostess at our guest house and had some cafe con leche. We sat at the table next to the San Diego Padre fans and had a nice conversation. It was a Grandpa with his #1 Grandson. 

Continued down the path, but while stopping for a picture, we were overrun by a group of probably 50 kids and their chaperones. It was fun to see them because they were so excited, but it was hard to be in the middle of that pack. To eliminate that mob, we stopped for our second coffee to let them get a head start. 

The sun had come out and we were happy to be clear of most of the bus tour people and the kids. 

Trying to savor our second to last day, we stopped at the next town at Buen Camino Café for a snack and beer. Unfortunately, we started seeing dark clouds and hearing thunder so we decided we best head out. We started out with Katie and it started to rain. She blamed us and we her because we walked yesterday in heavy rain together. Not far, she realized she had left her hat somewhere and she headed back and we headed on.

The rain only lasted a few minutes and we never did put on our raincoats. We have learned they can produce as much moisture from the inside as a light rain.  We had about 4 miles to our overnight town of Padrón, and kept up a good pace, hoping not to get caught in another shower

We continued through a few more towns, and when we got within a mile or so from our albergue, we left the yellow arrows  and followed the GPS directions.  It was funny because the walking directions took us off the Camino onto a dirt path and then it met up again to the Camino. We definitely confused some people.

Entering Padron we bumped into Katie’s cousin, Michelle, and her son, Drew. They were enjoying a quick lunch of Padron Peppers. 

Our Albergue, Albergue and Rooms Murgadan, is very new and nice. We have a private room with a real walk-in shower, AC, and coin-operated washers and dryers. The guy checking us in was really friendly. He showed us the room, laundry, etc.  Asking for a map, he pointed out all the must sees.  All were related to Saint James.

The recommended first stop was the church Igrexa de Santiago de Padrón, only a block from the albergue.  This church houses the Pedron. The Pedron is a large and ancient stone that Galician history claims the boat carrying the body of Saint James was moored up to. It occupies the exact location as it was at the time of the boat’s visit.

Unfortunately, recent investigations suggest that the Pedron was in fact an early Roman alter stone (possibly used in the original church of Santiago) and not the artifact that many would like to think, but there is evidence on both sides. In any event, the stone was actively used for some Christian purpose up to 2000 years ago and can clearly lay claim to its heritage as a religious artifact.

The church’s main claim to fame is its housing of the Pedron, but there has been a church on this site since 1133 AD and the foundations still contain an inscription dating back to these times.

We crossed the bridge over the River Sar. Right at the foot of the bridge is a small chapel at the site of the Fonte do Carme.  It is said that St.James caused this fountain ti gush water when he thrust his staff into solid stone, as a demonstration of God's power.

We climbed up a steep, ancient stone, walled stairway to Santiaguino do Monte or San Gregorio’s Mount. This historic spot was said to be the preaching ground of Saint James while he was in Galicia. Today it is a collection of stones and boulders with a stone cross at its head.  

Santiaguino Mount is an important stop off point for pilgrims doing the Camino.  By climbing the Mount you allegedly pass through three separations in the rocky formation known as Hell, Purgatory and Glory to meet the Camino's requirements. Only by doing this can you claim the "Jubilee" at the end of your journey.

Our last touristy stop was the church Igrexa de Santa María, next to the Municipal Albergue. There, after checking our passports and credentials, we were officially pardoned (and received a certificate) for passing through “Hell, Purgatory and Glory”. Think that means we can go to Santiago tomorrow!

Enough touring, we were starving and made our way into a busy square for lunch, it was already 3:30!  At Cafeteria Bocateria Alfoli, we got an outdoor table and ordered a hamburger, chicken sandwich and an order of the famous Padrón peppers. After eating, we enjoyed a wine and a beer while working on our blog. A heavy rain moved in so we had to move in.  Also there was the Grandfather and Grandson from San Diego, this was our second meeting today.

When the rain finally let up, we headed to the albergue to clean up, did a load of laundry, worked a little blog and looked for dinner options. On the latter, Trip Advisor had us zero in on O Paraiso.  Can’t always trust TA, it was our first bad food.  The tuna salad was fine but the “small red meat”, we could hardly eat. On the menu, we thought it sounded better than “secret meat”.

Rainy night and a hard 25 kilometers tomorrow, meant early to bed.