Pascua (Easter Sunday)

Sunday, April 01, 2018
Angra do Heroísmo, Azores, Portugal
April Fools Day, more appropriately, Happy Easter! We checked the schedule for Easter Mass at the Cathedral Ogreja do Santissimo Salvador and found that the Bishop would be celebrating Mass at 11:00. 
We arrived before 10:30 and sat toward the front right behind the pews reserved for the choir. Other than the impressive church itself, what jumped out immediately, were the five TV/movie cameras and floodlights. This not only would be a high mass, but would also be televised.  
We had a 30+ member choir, a 10+ member orchestra, with conductor, a half dozen attending priests and, of course, the Bishop. The music was beautiful and being all in Portuguese, we didn’t understand a word of the service — good thing we are practicing Catholics, we knew what was happening and when.
Back at the hotel, we changed into hiking clothes, made lunch and packed our knapsack. Up in the lobby our rental car guy, Andre, was waiting for us. We would have a car for four days for 100 euro, a brand new, blue, Opel. After brief paperwork and inspection of the car we were headed to the mountains for a hike.
We quickly left the city to drive up through the grazing, lava-rock-mosaic walled landscape that was spectacular. The green of Ireland has nothing on the island of Terceira! Just as quickly, we left the pastures, entered dense cedar groves. Our destination was Misterios Negros, part of the Santa Barbara National Forest Reserve. This hike was highly recommended and was #1 on our list. We parked the car and in full rain gear made it about a quarter mile in 25 mph wind and a driving rain. We both decided this was crazy and headed back to the car.
Plan B was quickly formulated. Looking at the map, we decided to explore the northern coast of the island and headed to the coastal town of Biscoitos.
Driving down from the mountains, the ocean opens up in front of you. The coastline, here as everywhere, is all black lava rocks or high cliffs. The crashing waves along Ponta dos Biscoitos called for a 1,000 pictures, yet none of them truly give justice to this place. 
At Biscoitos, and all around the island, are coastal swimming holes. With the rocky shorelines there are no, or very few sandy beaches. Instead, the natural rock formations, coupled with man made modifications, swimming holes are created. Many even offer bath houses for changing. During low tide, the water may be only a few feet deep, but at high tide, over your head. We felt the water and it was cold and we saw no bathers, but we were told that in the summer months they would be packed.
Unlike the rain and wind in the mountains, the coast was all blue sky, though it was windy. We drove an hour or so to the east and then backtracked through Biscoitos, circled to the west and back to Angra do Heroísmo. Our drive took us the breath of the island, south to north and half the circumference.  We stopped at almost every lookout and marveled at the beauty of this place. 
These roads, though in great shape were not designed for two way, modern vehicle traffic. This was especially true in the small towns where the buildings on either side came right to the road’s edge.  To make things just a little more interesting, parking halfway in the middle of the traffic lane was not uncommon - all added to the ambiance!
Though not as common as mainland Portugal, Fado can be found a couple of nights a week on Terceira. We had made reservations for dinner and Fado at the Posada Sao Sebastião. It is a hotel located in an ancient walled fortress. 
We were the first to arrive shortly after 7:00 and were seated at a window table with our name on it.  By 7:30, the dining room was full with nearly 50 people - a fair mix of English and non-English speaking.  This was a four course, wine paired meal with a Fado set between each.
The wines flowed freely, the food OK, and the Fado was great. The music came from two men on the mandolin and guitar; two women sang the Fado.
For 30 euro per person, it was a great night and highly recommended. It was nearly 11:00 by the time we left. 

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