Oh, My Goodness!!

Monday, April 02, 2018
Angra do Heroísmo, Azores, Portugal
Full Day Island Tour
Because we were delayed by a couple of days, we asked Getaways Azores to compensate us with a tour. They suggested the full-day Island tour which was scheduled for today. We met our guide, Marina, in the lobby around 9:15am and headed back up to Monte Brasil. This was quite different from our approach on Saturday because we were now in a large tour bus. Getting through the small fort gate was a little sketchy, but we made it both in and out (no one breathed)!
As we approached Pico das Cruzinhas, we saw a couple of deer. Evidently, they are not native and are only found in this area. We made a stop up at the cross where Marina gave a description of the importance of the city of Angra do Heroísmo and the Fort that protected it. This city was probably discovered in 1432 and quickly became the Center of the World because of the shipping channels to Africa, Europe and the  Americas.  Because of this importance, this monument was built. It overlooks the city and Santa Barbara, the highest peak, can also be seen.
Also up on Monte Brasil, we stopped to look at the large, perfectly formed crater. This is the only area of the mountain that is off limits since the active fort personnel use it as a firing range!
As we were driving out of the city, we stopped at the new bull fighting arena with an impressive three-bull sculpture nearby. Bulls are a major economic drive in Terceira with over 200 “running of the bulls” events in all the little villages in the summer and approximately 6-8 major bullfights. In the Acores, the bulls are not killed (only tormented)! Later in the day we saw the huge bulls who are used in the arenas (slow and big) and the fast, smaller bulls that run the streets.
Our next stop provided an amazing view of the Isheus das Cabral aka Goat Islets (the two largest islets of the Azores). These islets are uninhabited and are a very important bird sanctuary. There is a very rare bird similar to a seagull that migrate through the area. No one is allowed to visit the islets but boat trips circle them.  Across the street from this stop was Duke, a very friendly St. Bernard that many tourists were more interested in than the islets.
We had a nice coffee stop in Porto Judeu which had a spectacular view of the islets and fantastic cheap coffee. We spent most of our time on the large patio admiring the view.
As we passed the Bay of Salga, we were told about the important battle that took place there between the Spanish and the Portuguese. Some very smart local women heard about the Spanish coming and rounded up a large herd of bulls. After rousing them into a frenzy, drove them toward the approaching Spanish Army, driving them back into the sea. The bulls and clever women were credited with winning the battle and Terceira was named the Capitol of the Azores for a year!
We then drove up to Serra Cume for an unbelievable view of the patchwork landscape made up of the volcanic rock walls that are iconic of this volcanic island. The panoramic views are endless.  Everywhere you drive on the island you see small plots of land with these well built walls and small stone shelters that once held supplies and shelter from the elements. The landscape tapestry is spectacular.
Our next drive-through was quite sad. Lajas AFB is still an active US base, but with only 400 personnel compared to 6,000 only 5 years ago. Now, most of the military houses (which look really nice) are unoccupied and it is truly a ghost town. Marina was so sad about its demise since she remembers how vibrant it was and a place where the locals could buy American products and even go trick or treating! An important meeting between Tony Blair and George W. Bush took place there where they strategized the Iraq War. 
On to Praia da Vitória, the second largest town on the island. It has a sheltered beach with black sand, a picturesque harbor and many beautiful churches, buildings and squares. We spent about a half hour meandering the streets and finally wound up in the only souvenir shop we have visited this trip. We purchased a coffee mug (Dave always has to have one) and returned to the bus for our short drive to our lunch spot.
We had lunch in a cute little yellow house called O’s Moinhos where we were served local cheese and locally grown olives; a cabbage/kale soup; and the traditional pot roast marinated in white wine and cooked in a clay pot called Alcatra; and cake for dessert. It was very tasty and the place was charming. Of course, we also had wine with our meal and dessert wine (server called it moonshine) with our cake. If you like wine, the Azores does not disappoint!
Our lunch was just outside Sao Sebastiao so we continued into the village where we visited the oldest church on the island. It was a pretty church, but the real treat was seeing the frescoes inside painstakingly being restored (an inch per day). These frescoes were discovered after the horrific earthquake of 1980. Much of the island was destroyed during this quake, and after a massive three year restoration project, Angra became a UNESCO World Heritage site, the first in the Azores. Across the street from the church was a magnificent example of a Holy Spirit Chapel (imperio). There are 72 Holy Spirit Chapels throughout the island and they are always very brightly painted.
Considered to be the largest crater in the archipelago is Algar do Carvao, famous for its 100 meter deep caves and interior lake. We walked inside an extinct volcano where we explored a fern grotto and a deep lagoon. Quite a sight.
We then quickly stopped at Furnas do Enxofre, an active volcano. It was spewing steam and you could feel heat coming through the ground. We expected the sulphur to be smellier, but it wasn’t like Old Faithful! So windy that it was hard to hold the camera to take a picture.
Our last stop of the day was the Biscoitos Wine Museum. The distillery and museum are interesting but the gardens showing examples of the vines growing within the lava rock walls in deep holes (curraletos) producing a warm micro climate are fascinating. We were able to taste the Angelic liqueur wine (Verdelho wine) which was a sweet white dessert wine that had been aged in barrels for 12 years — sure wish we were checking bags!
We got dropped at our hotel after 6pm. A very full fun day. We did have some quirky fellow tourists. One woman from Rhode Island was so impressed with everything and must have said “Oh, my goodness” two hundred times! We thought she was sweet, but we couldn’t help but be amused! 
We had a reservation for dinner at Cais de Angra next to the harbor in Angra. We walked there and got there right about 7:30 which is evidently very early. There were only a few tables occupied. After our large lunch, we ate a little lighter. Sue had a grilled shrimp salad and Dave the fish of the day, Imperador. Not sure if the fish name can be translated, but it was tasty. By the time we left, there were many tables occupied.
“Oh, my goodness”, we really enjoyed the day!

Comments

Jean
2018-04-04

Thanks for sharing sounds like an amazing trip!!!

2025-02-10

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