We had our buffet breakfast early so that we could be ready for a transfer to the ferry. Although the ferry terminal was not far, it would be hard with luggage.
Victor picked us up right on time and we teased him that we only had a 50 Euro bill. When we arrived, he led us into the terminal and showed us where to check our bags. There was also a large cruise ship in the harbor. The ferry was quite large and we took seats on the top so that we could take some pictures and enjoy the views. The ride to Madalena, Pico was only 30 minutes.
Upon arrival, we were met by Ana Isabela from the car rental company. She took us to a bench outside to do paperwork. Then, we inspected the car. We have NEVER had such a ridiculous inspection. She marked down spots that were truly unnoticeable by anyone other than her. She also had specific directions for everything, including how to “top off” the gas. We called her the Rental Car Nazi and were a bit worried that we could not pass her inspection when we returned the car.
Ana Isabela gave us directions to our B&B, Calma do Mar, and we arrived within five minutes.
We were told that we would have to call the owners upon arrival, but when we knocked on the door, Edna answered. She showed us around and we stored our bags.
Our first stop was at the Cooperativa Vitivinicola (winery cooperative) to find out about the tours and wine tasting. The last English tour was at 6:30 and you could taste until 8:00pm. No reservation was needed.
We drove to the Whaler’s Museum in Lajes which was a beautiful coastal drive. We saw a sign for a museum, but when we went in, found out it was the whale processing museum. We found the museum we were looking for, located in three original 19th century boathouses. It had a good film that showed how whales were hunted as well as fascinating exhibits including boats, whale jawbones, scrimshaw, tools, photos, etc. It was interesting to learn about the social and economic impact of whaling on Pico Island. The last whale to be caught and processed was in 1984.
We were in search of lunch so we found a cafe and enjoyed bean/vegetable soup, salads and beer. Perfect amount for lunch.
We decided that since we were halfway around the lower part of the island that we would continue the drive. The scenery was beautiful.
Back in Madalena we made a quick stop at a supermarket to purchase supplies for our lunch on Mount Pico the next day. We bought prosciutto, cheese, buns, oranges and water.
We dropped the car at the Calma do Mar, selected our rooms and headed back out.
A main attraction on Pico Island is walking through the vineyards on the outskirts of Madalena.
It is a linear route called Vinhas da Criacao and is designated as a World Heritage site since 2004. All the vines are located in small plots protected by lava rock walls. The vines are low-growing and are protected from the sea-winds by the walls. With a thousands acres, and hundreds of lava rock-walled plots, it is an incredible sight! The trail is very scenic and includes ”rola-pipas” (carved slopes to enable the sliding of the wine barrels to the boats), “relheiras” (tracks left by the wheels of the ox carts), the shelter houses, the wine cellars, and even a well preserved historic windmill used for grain milling.
After driving the island we did not have time to walk the entire trail, but decided to go as far as the windmill. We had trouble locating the trail so went up a drive where some workers were spraying some vines. One of the workers yelled at another one and the second one seemed to know where we needed to go. Unfortunately, he sent us in a completely wrong direction. We walked quite a long way before seeing a man in his backyard where we asked again.
He sent us back to where we came from and we finally found the trailhead.
After this huge delay, we didn’t have much time before a 6:30 tour of the Cooperative. The four of us walked through this unique landscape in awe of the lava rock walls protecting the vines from the elements and watching the waves crash along the coast. We made it to the lighthouse which offered an elevated view of the vineyards. The Moody’s wanted the guided tour of the Cooperative so they retreated. We wanted to wander some more in this beautiful place so we continued on the trail.
We all met up at the Cooperative at 7:00pm for the wine tasting. Pico wines are quite different and Marianna was an excellent sommelier. We tasted two whites, three roses, two reds and three fortified wines. Pico whites are the most famous and were quite good. The reds and roses were unusual and the fortified were very good. The Moody’s bought a fortified for us to share in the evenings and we bought a white.
We needed to drop our purchases off at the B&B which was only a block away from the Cooperative.
Nuno, the young owner, was there and we asked about different restaurant options for dinner. Since it was so late, we opted for a close one, Taberna do Canal. It was a small, local place. Three of us had steak and frites that was recommended by the server. They were very good. Dave had a whole fish which was also yummy.
We got back to Calma do Mar and assembled and packed tomorrow’s lunch. We also had a chance to visit with some of the other guests. Two couples had done different whale watching tours - one spotted one whale and the other two. The islands of Pico and Faial are supposed to be the best in the Azores for whale watching but we were only on these islands for two days each, and there was simply no time to squeeze in a whale watching trip. We would have to wait for that adventure until San Miguel.
So far, Pico is an amazing island.
2025-02-12