The Trek Begins

Monday, November 25, 2019
TOUR IN PERU - Machu Picchu Tours Peru, Cuzco, Peru
Pisca Kucho (8790 ft) to Huaylia Bamba Village (9735 ft)
Day started early to be ready for Oswaldo at 8, Sue up at 5:10.  We had another good breakfast in the dining room where we had dinner last night. We were down about 7:15, and the only ones there. As we were leaving another group came in. Our omelets were made to order.  Great pineapple, watermelon and papaya.
Oswaldo was waiting for us at 7:45.  After checking out (we had to pay for last night’s dinner), we were on the road by 8:00. We had a new van and new driver.  Joining us were Valeria, our cook, and Rubin, a head porter. While we would be touring Ollantaytambo, they would be buying all the food and supplies for our trek. 
On our drive to Ollantaytambo, Oswaldo explained that our porter crew were all from a single community.  Andean Adventures rotated their crews from several communities in an effort to spread the jobs around. He said that in all likelihood, all of our porters were farmers (their day jobs).  
It was a pretty drive to Ollantaytambo, the mountain sides were all terraced and lush green. Oswaldo pointed out and named several of them. Like seeing images in clouds, the Incas named mountains by the images they saw in them.  With a little coaxing and a few hints, we could actually see what he was seeing!  
He also pointed out an open salt mine. The harvesting process that Oswaldo explained was pretty cool. During the rain season, pools would form and in the dry season, when the pools evaporated, the salt would be gathered.
Ollantaytambo would be Bligh and Brennan’s first massive visual of the Peruvian ruins left by the Incas. Really think it was an OMG experience. The ruins rise up the mountainside from the valley level where the town is situated.
Before entering the ruins of Ollantaytambo, Oswaldo gave us a tour of the town, which dates, like the ruins, to the 15th century. Many of the buildings are original. He pointed out, still functioning aqueduct systems.  
Oswaldo took us to a friend’s house/museum. This is one of the original structures built by the Incas. The museum room was dirt floored with dozens of guinea pigs scurrying around. We even got to feed them! Guinea pig is considered a real delicacy and are raised commercially. This original one room home had a corner set aside for sleeping, another for cooking, and cubbies throughout for storage.
The ruins of Ollantaytambo are simply amazing. There are probably 25 terraces leading up to the temple at the highest point.  The massive stones that make up the temple were brought from a quarry seven kilometers away and across the river. The river crossing would have happened in the dry season. 
The temple, as with many of the Inca ruins unearthed, was a work in progress. There are many of these huge stones, some partially carved, just waiting to be placed. Its construction includes earthquake resistant features, smaller wedge-shaped stones between the larger pieces. Further ingenuity and genius are the sundial equipment which told when to plant, when to harvest, etc. 
On a facing mountain, Oswaldo asked if we could spot the image of Tunupa.  A face was obvious and the legend is that Tunupa showed the residents of Ollantaytambo a better way to farm and saved them from starvation.  Out of gratitude, his image was carved in the mountain, just like Mt. Rushmore!
These impressive ruins were the perfect setup for getting us pumped for the Inca Trail. As we came out from the ruins, our van with Valeria, Rubin, food and supplies was waiting for us. We would have no boiled water this first day, so we bought enough to fill all of our bottles.
It was a little more than an hour drive to the trailhead. We followed the Urubamba River on a very rough dirt road passing through several small communities. The river was running fast and brown from all the recent rain. 
At the trailhead, our team was all assembled and packing up.  At this first checkpoint they checked all of our passports to make sure we were listed on the manifest of the 500 people allowed throughout the trail for that day. The 500 includes tourists, porters, cooks and guides.
Since our trip of 2014, they have added a museum at the trailhead and other amenities, like flush toilets.   The museum focuses primarily on the flora, fauna, ruins and diverse micro-climates on the Inca Trail. Oswaldo also explained that being so close to the equator was the reason that at 10,000 plus feet, snow is a rarity. Cusco last had snow 20 years ago.
Crossing the foot bridge over the Urubamba is the point of no return, the official start of the trail. We had to wait for a pony/mule team to cross before heading out ourselves.  
The river was really roaring.  Oswaldo showed us the remnants of an old cable crossing. He remembered in 1986, crossing the river on the cable with feet dangling just above the rushing water!
The first hour or so we paralleled the Urubamba and watched several of the 20 daily trains from Cusco to Aguas Caleinte. Children living in these remote communities would ride the train for an hour, after walking an hour, to get to and from school each day. 
Veering away from the river and up a new valley we started our first real assent. Between the clouds, we got glimpses of glaciers in the distance. A light rain started and we had to put on rain gear and covers. We stopped at a small oasis run by a local family that had shelter from the rain, banos, and a shop offering bottled water and snacks.
After a snack and as the rain let up, we headed back out.  Throughout the first half of today’s trek, we saw several people either by burro, pony or motorbike on the trail. Only the locals living in the park can use animals or motorized vehicles. The hillsides off the main trail are zigzagged with mini trails leading to family farms and communities. Can’t loose sight of the fact that all farming is on terraced, steep slopes. We walked in sight of a grandma, mother and granddaughter for quite a distance. Next thing we knew, they broke off and were headed up one of these local trails, heading to the top of yet another mountain.
Only one real climb and we were at the Llactapata Ruins. From above, we took pictures down on the ruins; this was Dave & Sue’s first overnight back in 2014. They were the only ones camping that night, but unfortunately, it is no longer used as an overnight campground.
Valeria and team had our lunch tent all set up when we arrived. Located within a small community complete with chickens, a big tom turkey and children playing.  Lunch of juice, tomato soup, chicken/green bean salad, yuca and a peach for dessert. 
The trail to our overnight at Huayllabamba was pretty rolly-polly, gradual up and downs, or as Oswaldo explained, “Peruvian Flat”. The green mountainsides continued with their beautiful terraces. We were surprised by four green parakeets flying over the trees.  Their song keyed us in to them before they took flight. Seemed like we watched them forever as they flew down the valley disappearing in the distance. 
The Huayllabama campsite is in the valley and a community of the same name.  As we entered the village, we were greeted by a sow and her three piglets. When we arrived, our tents were set up and warm water waiting for us to freshen up with. We wouldn’t have needed our air mattresses as the tents were set up on a soft grassy terrace.
It seemed like we just had lunch but fresh popped popcorn, crackers with butter and jelly were waiting for us in the dining tent. Following our “snack”, we headed to Dave & Sue's tent and played cards until called for dinner. 
We had a beef, onion and pepper dish (lomo saltado) that rivaled what we prepared back at the cooking class in Cusco! Dinner always ended with dessert, tea, coffee or hot chocolate. By the end of the trek, Brennan got pretty creative mixing the instant coffee, powdered milk, sugar and cocoa.
After dinner it was pitch dark and the stars were phenomenal. Bligh reported that at 3:00 AM they were even better!

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