Machu Picchu, Cusco, Peru
We were all up, packed and down for breakfast by 7:15. The early start was needed to be able to meet Oswaldo and catch the 8:00am bus up to Machu Picchu.
Breakfast was the most simple of the whole trip, including those by Valeria while on the trail. That’s more than okay because we only paid $45 per room. We checked out and stored our bags. We only needed to carry rain gear and water.
We only waited a few minutes at the rendezvous spot for Oswaldo and only had to walk a couple of blocks to the bus depot. At the head of the queue, we ended up with zero wait.
The ride up the multi-switchback road to Machu Picchu was only about 15 minutes and the line getting in was about the same. Oswaldo, as throughout the week, gave excellent background of the why and how of the construction of these marvelous Incan wonders.
He explained how the American explorer and archeologist, Hiram Bingham, discovered Machu Picchu in 1911. Suspecting its existence, he paid local farmers as his guides and to prove his theory that this was a burial site, he offered one Sol for each skull they would bring him.
Oswaldo was all smiles when he told the story of Pablito, only a teenager, being Bingham’s primary guide through the area and yet uncovered ruins - therefore, Pablito is credited with being Machu Picchu’s first tour guide! We think Oswaldo is proud to and really enjoys following in Pablito’s footsteps.
We explored the lower areas for about an hour before heading back out to the entrance to use the bathrooms before continuing the tour. Typically, there is no re-entry, but Oswaldo was able to talk our way back in. Ours was a more complicated group. Dave, Bligh and Brennan would be climbing up Wayna Picchu, which was an extra entry charge and separate ticket to the normal admission. Sue had only purchased the single entry, so Oswaldo had to do some arm twisting to get her back in. We would be here all day rather than just a couple of hours, therefore the need for the exit. The double entry was just to get a “pit stop”. No facilities were inside.
Back inside, we made our way up to the Sun Temple. Very cool how at the summer equinox everything lined up. The Incas were definitely astrological geniuses. Like almost all of the ruins we had visited, the Sun Temple was in mid-construction. That construction, as with most, had earthquake-preventing design.
It was much more crowded than five years ago. Oswaldo estimated 5,000 visitors per day in this shoulder season and over 7,000 during peak times. Most people use guides and over hearing the “Schtick” of some of the guides, it was clear, we had the best in Oswaldo.
He even corrected, somewhat heatedly, some restorers who were using metal tools rather than bamboo.
Following the tour of Machu Picchu proper, Oswaldo, Bligh, Brennan and Dave headed up to Wayna Picchu. They had to check and sign in. Of the hundred or so signatures in the ledger, Dave was the oldest. Sue would spend the next couple of hours wandering, exploring and taking pictures (and being harassed by aggressive llamas)!
Looking up at Wayna Picchu, the mountain rising above Machu Picchu, there is no sign of a trail and it appears to be straight up. Luckily, there is a well defined trail and it is straight up!
However, the climb offered spectacular views of Machu Picchu and the Urubamba River Valley. Near the top there are Inca ruins of what would have been a military lookout.
As they neared the top, the trail became narrower and eventually one-way. At the peak, it was very crowded, almost elbow room only - you must remember, this is peak. After we got our triumph pictures at the top, we descended a short distance for a break and a snack - what a great spot! Do you think Oswaldo has done this before?!
Back down and out the gate, Sue was waiting for us. She had a scare because a rescue crew was sent up with a stretcher, which she knew was for one of us.
We leisurely made our way back to the main entrance, taking a few pictures but also feeling a little sad leaving all this behind, probably for the last time. We waited in the queue for the bus for nearly 30 minutes.
Back in Machu Picchu Town, we had a late lunch at La Retama del Che, a cute place on a busy commercial street, paralleling the Urubamba River. We had a window table overlooking the river. Oswaldo joined us and we said our goodbyes, not the easiest to do.
We returned to Samuels House to retrieve our bags before heading to the train station. The station was packed. As mentioned earlier, there are nearly 20 trains a day up and down this line, with Aguas Caliente being the terminus.
An agent announced our train and led us to it. We all had assigned seats on the Vistadome train. It offered picture windows, tables, sandwiches and drinks - not the train Oswaldo and locals would have taken.
Due to problems down the line, our 4:43 train was delayed about 45 minutes. While daylight lasted, it was a beautiful ride through the Urubamba Valley, with the river roaring and majestic peaks rising, not to mention a pretty spectacular sunset.
If all that wasn’t enough, the staff put on a fashion show up and down the aisle to music and costumed dancers.
They modeled high-end Peruvian clothes for both men and woman. Everything looked high end and the prices confirmed it.
It was after nine when we arrived back in Cusco. Christian and Walter were waiting for us and took us back to La Mirada Suites.
On the drive we discussed with Christian what we should do the following day with our flight not leaving until late afternoon. We decided on an animal sanctuary, specializing in the recovery of condors. It was only about 30 minutes from the city and Andean Adventures would arrange the whole day trip for a very reasonable price. We were all set for a 9:00am pick up.
Back at the La Morada, we checked back into the same suite. Dave and Sue headed out in search of some live music and a pisco sour. They struck out on both and settled for a large bottle of beer from a local market. Returning with it to the hotel, they enjoyed it with Bligh from the patio overlooking the beautiful city-lit skyline of Cusco. Another perfect ending to a nearly perfect day.
2025-02-15