Kangaroo Island Four nights

Tuesday, January 11, 2022
Kangaroo Island, South Australia, Australia
Day 5 Adelaide, Port Jervis, Penneshaw and Kingscote
If you click on the link here you can see where I am talking about on a Google map
The Wikipedia entry for Kangaroo Island can be found here.
Our bus was waiting for us at the station where seven more people joined us. 
The bus took us via the coast road to Port Noarlunga  where we stopped for a photo opportunity. 
This was on the way to the Richard Hamilton wineries at Leconfield where we had a wine tasting and lunch.
We sat on the veranda looking out to some very attractive flower beds.
We then drove through the McLaren Vale area and then through the pretty little towns of Myponga and Yankailla, most of the houses being built in the local stone. We arrived at Cape Jervis in time to board the 3pm ferry to Kangaroo Island.
The ferry had a small van which parked by the bus, our luggage was transferred and the van driven on the ferry. Very convenient.
About a 50 minute crossing, quite calm 
On arrival at Penneshaw we transferred our luggage into another bus which will be ours for the next five days.
Our first activity was gin tasting at the Kangaroo Island Spirits.
Here we had five different gins (with ice) 
Five gins with ice interesting! Nicely presented with a written explanation of each gin. They were different however not much to my taste.
Short drive to the Aurora Ozone Hotel which will be our home for the next four nights. Dinner at leisure so we had some very nice fish (Victoria Whiting) and chips in our room overlooking the Bay of Shoals.
Day 6 Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary, Remarkable Rocks, Admirals Arch and Kingscote surrounds.
Click here for the days destinations
The day was wet and coldish so we needed our rain jackets.
It was a 8am start for the hours drive to the western end of the island.
While the island is well serviced with roads only a main loop road is tarred all the others being various stages of roughness.
About two thirds of the island has been cleared and is used for farming, however, there are large national parks at the western end and mid south of the island.
What we did notice was the much wider strips of vegetation on either side of the road as compared with the mainland.
This was good for us (as tourists) and acted as conduit for the local wildlife however was a problem during the bushfires in that the fire could do the same.
Here is a photo showing the extent of the island affected by the fires
Much of the vegetation has begun to regenerate after the 2020 bushfires but they did loose about half the koala population. This was a blessing in disguise since the National Parks had been trying to reduce the koala population for some years prior to the fires.
Owen had arranged for us to go into the Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary  Most of its buildings had been destroyed in 2020 however a guide took us for a walk looking for koalas.
We didn't have to look far since there was a resident koala in the tree next to where the bus parked. 
I decided to wait in the bus while the other went on the walk, in drizzly rain, to see more koalas.
Our next stop was the Remarkable Rocks
These are a iconic Kangaroo Island sight and can be seen from a distance sticking up beside Sanderson Bay. The visitors centre had been destroyed by the fires however, a new boardwalk and toilet block have now been constructed.
unfortunately we could not stop since there was no where for the bus to stop.
Admirals Arch is another iconic KI sight this also had a series of steps down to it, on the way we could see plenty of fur seals, some with pups.
On the way to Vivonne Bay we passed some Blue Gum plantations these were planted some years ago, unfortunately the company went broke so now nobody knows what to do with them.
Our lunch was pre-ordered from a café at Vivonne Bay, being a Friday the place was full so we found a convenient campsite BBQ table to eat our chicken wrap.
Before getting back to hotel we had a short drive to Kingscote Jetty where free settlers arrived in 1860? not good water so settlement failed after a few years. 
We had dinner with the group in a private room, it was set up with tables of eight so we could talk with our group.
There are 27 of us on the trip and we had met about three quarters on previous trips.
It was good to catch up.
Day 7 Seal Bay, Rapto Domain, American River, Clifford Honey Farm and Emu Ridge Eucalyptus Distillery  
8:15 start with the weather being overcast and coldish.
Click here to see the map 
First stop was Seal Bay Conservation Park which is on the middle of the south coast of the island. 
This has been a source of fur seal exploitation since European settlement but since the '60s has been protected.
The visitors Centre was not affected by the bushfires so most of us walked down to the beach and got up reasonably close (10m) to the seals.
Leith and I, however, walked on a another boardwalk which gave us a view of the beach and many seals from afar, we did see a number quite close in the dunes.
We saw a skeleton of a humpback whale in the sand dunes (see photo)
On walking back we caught still hear the pups calling. It was a low guttural sound perhaps vaguely related to a penguin but quite penetrating since we could hear it say 300m distant. 
About a ten minute drive away was the Raptor Domain . This was a bird sanctuary and rehabilitation place where injured birds were brought back to life (many after the bushfires).
Some were released but others were taught to come out and be shown off to the tourists.

About 60 of us for the 11:30am show, first a couple magpies were brought out and they picked up some rubbish and put in a bin.
Then a tawny frogmouth was brought out. People were asked to volunteer to hold the bird. They come out, put on a heavy glove the bird hopped onto the glove and photos were taken. 
Next was a barn owl, his trick was to hop from knee to knee of the people sitting in the front row.
Then we had the Mopoke owl followed by a hobby falcon followed by a Pacific Baza (crested hawk) followed by two Kookaburras.
The event finished by a large wedge tailed eagle being brought out for show. The whole event went for about an hour. Great fun. For an extra $15 you could have your photo taken with the wedge tailed eagle on your arm. One of our party did this and said the bird was quite heavy.
Our lunch stop was to be American River, I spent a good five minutes searching for a river of that name till I was told that it was a place! In fact quite historical since Mathew Flinders landed here in 1802, some American sealers camped here in 1803 and built South Australia's first boat.
This boat is being reconstructed by some local enthusiasts. They are progressing well and we gave them $20 They have an impressive website.
Also impressive  that day was our lunch.
Owen had organised local Oysters and prawns for most of us,
 for some reason a couple people ate something else. Fresh bread, cheese and ham plus drinks followed.
This was doled out at the local campsite BBQ area. Excellent.
No rest for the wicked, since we have two more places to visit.
Clifford Honey Farm

Started in the late '80's by a local couple it now a great range of honey products. It also had an indoor hive with glass panels on both sides so that you could see the bees working as well as the Queen bee. The hive was connected to the outside by a tube. The queen was noticeably larger and some space around her.
We had some honey ice cream which was delicious

This has been going since the 1930's and as you can see from the link has expanded over since then.
There was a nice shop with good coffee.
They use to cut the Narrow Leaf Mallee - which is an eucalyptus with a very high oil content - by hand but they now use a modified harvester. The leaves are then heated with water and the resulting steam distilled with the oil and water separated out.
We did buy a couple of  bottles as it is very useful.
Day 8 Parndana, Wildlife Park and Aquarium, Snelling Beach, Stokes Bay and Lavender Farm
Since today is Sunday we had a late start, boarded the bus at 9:00am. It is a lovely sunny day forecast 26! which is much better than the 20's over the last few days.
Click here for the map
As we drove out of Kingscote, we saw a COVID testing station. No queue
Our first stop was Parndana.
This used to be thriving township for the surrounding solder settler farms set up after the WW2. About 120 families each had been given 1200 acres, but unfortunately the soil wasn't good and most failed after some years.
Today the town is very quiet. It has been bypassed due to the construction of better roads giving easier access to bigger townships.
Luckily the township was saved during the 2020 fires by a wind change.
We stopped and looked at some agricultural machinery since the museum was closed.
Our next stop at the Wildlife Park and Aquarium 
This was like an open air zoo with enclosures of various animals.
We were allowed to walk  through with the KI kangaroos which are special sub species unique to the island. The same with the koala enclosure.
We also saw various parrots, dingoes snakes and even a wombat who was in an enclosure open at one end and glass panel at the other through which he (or she) was visible. 
We then drove to the northern coastline of the Island passing cleared paddocks to Snelling Beach, there was a lovely view of the beach as the road dropped down to sea level.
Snelling Beach as a large fig tree, so large in fact, that there a restaurant has been established under its branches. 
Along the coast road for awhile (rough dirt road) to Stokes Bay where we had a coffee and loo break not too mention a walk into the Secret Beach, so called because the entrance is via a path through a rock ravine.
Finally to our last stop for the afternoon Emu Bay Lavender Farm
We arrived just after 4pm so the cafe was shut however we could buy products not to mention look at rows and rows of lavender in bloom.
Arrived back in Kingscote for our last dinner with the group. This was in the hotel.
Day 9 Cape Willoughby, Dudley Wines then to Adelaide
Our last day on the Island, a lovely sunny day
Our map for the day is here
We were booked on the 2:30pm ferry from Penneshaw which gave us time to explore the eastern side of the Island.
As you can see from the map (click on the link above) there is a narrow part of the island, there is a feral cat proof fence across this part however there must be gap for the main road to pass through! They are still working on the solution!
It was a 75 minute drive to the furthest point of the Island the Cape Willoughby Lighthouse which is in its own National Conservation Park.
A fine example of 19c lighthouse architecture with three adjoining cottages. In fact we arrived on its birthday (it opened or first flashed on the 10th Jan 1852).
Leith and others climbed to the top, it now has a LED light so the Fresnal Lens is now on display, a section has been removed so one can get inside it. See photos.
Our last lunch on the Island was at Dudley Wines  who had a lovely establishment overlooking a valley. We sat on the verandah and ate a charcuterie plate then a series of pizzas very pleasant and filling
Finally we had to leave to get the ferry.
A smooth crossing .
On the drive into Adelaide there was a major panic as Leith and I and a number of others who had booked on the 1055 plane Adelaide - Sydney were texted a message to say that our plane had been cancelled and we should see our travel agent.
Our travel agent (Owen) was of course in the bus so he spent some time on the phone trying sort it out.
He was finally able to give us the option of going on the 0605 flight the next morning or the 1055 flight the day after. We chose the civilised time. 
Some of our group did choose the 0605 flight luckily they did not disturb us.
We are staying at the Mayfair Hotel. This is right in the middle of town
Very convenient
Day 10 Hot day in Adelaide
So we had the day in Adelaide with the forecast of 39c.
After a leisurely breakfast we caught the tram down to the Central Markets. Not that busy but always interesting to browse.
Then the tram back then a walk of about 750m in the heat. By this time it was 35c so we glad to be to Museum for a cool down and drink. The Museum had virtual reality presentation called ‘Thin Ice’  We wore the googles to see a recreation of Shackleton's voyage and his walk across South Georgia to get help. It was well done through the efforts of Tim Jarvis who recreated Shackleton’s journey. I guess it will come to Sydney soon. 
We had simple lunch at Museum since it was not crowded and cool.
The walk back to the hotel was via the Rundle Mall which had slightly more shade. 
I spent the afternoon organising this blog and downloading our boarding passes for tomorrow 
Day 11 Flight back to Sydney
Lovely sunny day left the hotel about 9:30am we were too mean to pay for breakfast knowing that we could a free coffee and something at the Qantas Lounge .
Uneventful trip back 
Many thanks Owen for another great trip

Comments

LL
2022-01-22

Well done. I felt i was there. Ha Ha

HEATHER GRANT
2022-01-22

Great reminiscing from our trip some years ago.

Louise Wilson
2022-01-22

How the other half lives, eh! Very interesting - I had no idea there was so much to do on Flinders Island. It's great that your love of train trips has led to so many varied adventures - and gourmet eating and drinking! I love the quirky things you notice while travelling, David. Great photos too.

Louise Wilson
2022-01-23

Oops - just goes to show your brain plays tricks on you when you live in Victoria, where Phillip Island and Flinders Island pop into your mind on automatic. I meant Kangaroo Island!

Deb Ringe
2022-01-23

What a great trip. Good to hear they are recovering from the devastating bushfires, it's a slow process. We went some years ago, left the caravan on the mainland and based ourselves at a house in Vivonne Bay for 3 or 4 nights, did day trips from there. Great that covid didn't impact too badly on your trip, and good to see you both out and about, enjoying your train travel.

Wai Yoong Chin
2022-01-24

Sounds like a wonderful trip. Maybe we will get to do this trip with Owen once things settle down a little. Thank you for posting. It's something to look forward to.

Stu Knibbs
2022-12-02

Enjoyed yr description, thanks David! We are going on the same trip this month so are much better prepared now.

2025-02-07

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