I'm typing this sitting in a little gem of a harbour right on the very edge of Sweden, called Utklippan. It is 4.5 miles from the next nearest island to the mainland, called Utlängan. It consists of two almost barren islands, Norraskär and Södraskär which have had 4 breakwaters joining them enclosing a square harbour in the middle, capable of holding a couple of dozen boats. The original function of the harbour was to house vessels carrying supplies for the lighthouse keepers and their families but the light was automated in the 1970’s thereby freeing up the harbour for the use of yachtsmen. Today, there is a small business here, providing meals and even overnight accommodation (there is a bridal suite apparently) but the season must be very limited, as it would be hard indeed to get into the harbour safely in any sort of sea.

We realised that this would be a popular stopping-off point for north and south-going vessels and we were keen both to see it and to secure a space, so we left Kristianopel quite early, around 07:15, figuring on getting to Utklippan by lunchtime . It was almost windless when we started and indeed the winds remained very light so we had to engine all the way, arriving as predicted by midday, having covered 25 miles.

The islands and the lighthouse are visible from some distance, which come to think of it is the idea of a lighthouse but anyway, even in slightly hazy conditions we could see it from afar. We had strange weather on the way, sun, then cloud, then rain and back to sun and the sun then stayed with us for the remainder of the day, making it a very pleasant day. We knew we would like this place and we were already favourably disposed when we started spotting seals, apparently both the grey and harbour seal are in the area but I think I’m right when I say that the one in the photo is a grey, not the endangered harbour seal.

The entrance into the outer harbour is surrounded by rocks and once inside, the way into the inner harbour is even narrower but once in, you’re a safe as houses . When we arrived, there was room to spare but by the end of the afternoon, boats were 3 deep. Luckily for us, a lovely, classic wooden boat on its way home after the rally season in Sweden placed herself outside us, that put anybody else off rafting outside again, so that leaving tomorrow we only have to disturb one boat. Actually, they professed to want an early start anyway so that’s not an issue. What might be one is the fact that I have less than 3’ between our bow and the boat in front and the same behind and they are 3 deep, so the angle I have to take to get out will be quite extreme. Fingers crossed that it is not too windy when we actually go.

After lunch, we set off to have a look around. To get from one island to the other there are some dinghies one can use, which saved us pumping ours up. Apart from the lighthouse, there is not much to see really, which I suppose is the whole idea, the solitude and all. The granite rocks were very pretty and the evidence of glacial activity was everywhere, the rocks being very smooth and rounded . It really is a delightful, other-world sort of place and we both loved it, particularly as the weather was so nice. Returning the dinghy, we decided that the best way of spending the remainder of the afternoon was to enjoy the sun and read our books, which we duly did.

That evening I made a lamb curry and we decided to watch an episode of 'The Bridge’, another Danish subtitled programme that I’d downloaded a few months ago. However, when we came to play it, I’m afraid it was in the original Danish so it was useless to us, unless I can find a way to marry the subtitle file to the video that is. Ah well. We watched an episode of ‘Yes Minister’ instead, a present from my sister in law Cherry the Christmas before last and saved for these sorts of occasions. They may be dated in terms of dress and when they refer to money but they are absolutely on the button in all other respects, quite brilliant I believe. And so to bed, with an early start scheduled for the morning.