Thursday, August 10, 2023

Iceland’s second biggest waterfall is right in front of me. We are sitting on my jacket in the grass on a steep hillside just above the falls. As elsewhere, the bottom of the falls is shrouded in eternal mist. 

Flowing bare green mountains all around us. In the distance are 4 people eating lunch like us. On a rock next to the water is a young man. Initially I thought he was meditating, his hands devoutly joined. Then I realized he was piloting a drone.

We are enjoying this gem of nature alone; mind you, we had to reach this village consisting of one house. And then we had to walk a trail over the bare mountain side for half an hour. A few other people who enjoy hiking like us also walked over the hills, and not a building anywhere. 

The road here from Egilsstadir led over high mountains, until we reached a barren plateau. Rocks strewn all over, some areas swampy. Completely uninhabited.

Then the road descended until we reached  Laugarfell, one house on a hillside covered in grass and short heath.

We continue our hike and pass several more impressive waterfalls. For a while the trail follows the edge of the canyon of a river. Unlike in other countries there is no protective guardrail or anything. I really like it. Personal responsibility, nobody to blame but yourself if you get to close. We saw that everywhere. Maybe a thin rope to tell you where to stop, but if you want to cross it…

When we finish the hike we are back at the one building of Laugarfell, and in the grass are two hot springs. One is 44 C (111 F), the other is 39 C ( 102 F). We can’t resist and spend an hour relaxing in the hot water - although the hot one is approaching the pain threshold.

Alone in the hot bath, I listen to the silence. Around me is common grass, and small flowers like clover, dandelions and buttercup. After a long time I recognize that the faint hissing sound is from a waterfall far away at the next mountain chain. I can just see the white ribbon in the distance.

Then we start driving back but when we pass a waterfall we decide to take a look. It turns out that the trail is very steep, going to the highest part of the mountain. We are a bit tired from our hike so the climb is not fast, but the falls are beautiful, especially the colors of the rock formations behind it. We talk a bit with a Swiss American couple from Connecticut and then start the steep descend.

At the car we realize that we might just make it back in time for the supermarket. We do. Didi drops us at the entrance with four minutes to spare. Enough to get milk and salmon, which Sisi turns into a spectacular dinner (the salmon, not the milk).

Despite an hour in the hot springs I still take a shower. And now I sit in the common room to finish my diary.

It’s packed. Three elderly Spanish eat together. Two young italian couples also. At the counter five Italians are cooking and eating together. Across from me on the sofa is a German couple. And I hear Dutch too somewhere.

It’s cozy here, and warm. And almost 22:00, my bedtime.

Buona notte, amico mio!m

PS: This east side of the island definitely has more trees. Happy to see replantings on many hillsides.

PPS: If you are planning to travel here: credit cards with chips accepted everywhere. Even to go to the bathroom ! I haven’t seen any Icelandic money yet.