Wednesday, August 16, 2023
It rained during the night, and I love to lie inside my warm sleeping bag and listen to the sound of the raindrops on the tent canvas.
But then you have to get up…
We are early and the shower is ours. As the end of our trip is approaching, we take a good look at our food supplies and try to adjust our diet to the remaining items. It means cornflakes and instant noodles for breakfast.
The ‘Golden Circle’ is the commercial name for a group (actually three) attractions within easy reach of Reykjavik. We expect a lot of tourists and we are not disappointed. Included are many older tourists who stay in hotels in Reykjavik and are bussed to the attractions.
Our first stop is the Strokkur geyser. It’s not as impressive as the Old Faithful, but it does jet up impressively - but only for a moment.
Unfortunately it starts to rain heavily. By the time we reach the steaming land and the boiling pond from which the Strokkur rises, it comes pouring down. Protection of my cell phone is becoming an issue. But we are able to take some nice pictures.
The water in the tiny pond moves up and down, and suddenly, every ten or fifteen minutes, a huge bubble burst up and steaming water spouts up to 40 meters (120ft) into the air. But indeed it immediately collapses.
Because of the rain and the grey weather, the steam is sometimes hard to distinguish from the clouds.
By the time we are totally soaked we return to the car for hot tea and snacks. And ten minutes later the rain stops.
We go again and take more pictures.
Our next stop has more significance for me. It’s the continental divide, more specifically the place where the eurasian and the North American tectonic plates touch. And - in fact - slowly drift apart. This fissure is extremely long, of course - some 16.000 km (10,000 miles). And it divides Iceland.
This drifting apart - at a rate of 2,5 cm (1”) per year causes earthquakes and sometimes volcanic eruptions.
In the Thingvellir national park we walk between two rock walls that are drifting apart. One side is European, and the other American.
It means something to me to walk in this spot. Just like it meant something to me to walk in Galapagos and see the hotspot in the earth’s mantle and the tectonic plate floating over it. There new volcanoes and islands are born. Here Iceland grows a bit every year. It’s as if for a moment, in our very short lives, we can experience geologic time, which is measured in eons.
And another fact makes this place meaningful. It’s the place where the ancient parliament of Iceland has met since the year 930 AD. And it held its sessions there until 1798, when it moved to Reykjavik.
This makes it by far the oldest parliament in the world. This site was packed with people in 1930 to celebrate its millennium. In 2000 there was another grand celebration, the millennium of Christianity in Iceland. And on other occasions the Icelanders gather on these sacred grounds to celebrate their unity.
As was the case in 1944 to declare their independence from Denmark. Negotiations had started in 1940, but then the war started. Denmark was occupied by Germany and after four years the debate in Iceland was: shall we wait until the end of the war or not? The majority decided to declare independence, and it happened right here. In this ancient place. The king of Denmark - under house arrest by the Germans - sent a telegram to congratulate the new nation.
And now I walk here and look at the ancient lava, and I think of my old geography teacher. What an inspiring man he still is.
Our last stop is at the Gulfoss - the golden waterfall. It’s grand, it’s huge and beautiful. But what a tourists! It’s really an adjustment for us. Nevertheless, we admire the views get sprayed by the thundering falls and feel satisfied when we finish this last point of interest on our expedition.
However, the camping manager has given us a discount for a hot spring in the village, and Sisi can’t resist the temptation to spend a short hour in a large hot pool in the open air. The smell of sulphur is mild but pungent. The last time before Iceland that I bathed in geothermal water was in Fédéración, in Argentina. What a different world.
Lamb for dinner, eaten outside, makes a perfect ending of the day. Hopefully it stays dry tonight.
Good night…
Roy De Hair
2023-08-17
Spectaculair!