We sail for Naples

Sunday, December 03, 2023
Via dei Tribunali, 120, Campania, Italy
Sunday December 3, 2023
The alarm rings at 05:20, so the night is short. Quickly we get ready, pack our bags, leave the key on the table, and we leave our Capri home.
Outside it is still dark, and over the cobble stones we walk to the bus stop. Two regular garbage trucks are being loaded with the trash collected by the narrow electric carts that are able to enter the narrow streets.
The bus arrives at 06:00 and with a few others we twist down the hairpin loops to the Marina Grande. I have to hand it to the drivers, they know their vehicle. Often we pass near stone walls, at a distance of less than my hand’s width. I sit next to the window and can’t help but feel impressed.
At the harbor people help us in de darkness, we get our tickets and step onto the dock. Majestically, with a hundred small lights showing the outline, the large ferry lays at berth.
Under the harsh harbor lights we walk to the ramp, tickets are torn, and we go upstairs over the metal staircase.
Under a strong wind the boat manœuvres out of the tiny harbor, and at first light we see Capri appearing as we head out.
It’s a beautiful view and for a long time we stare at the receding island. Our Capri. We  point out the lit roads we walked the last few days. There is the mountain hump with Tiberius’ palace, there is Anacapri. Memories already…
Now I have to detail a minor personal occurrence. When leaving the room, the fridge held one bottle of ice cold milk, that - being Dutch - I didn’t want to throw away. So I drank it all, even though it seemed to have a layer of cream on top. Strange for low-fat milk.
Well, with the dancing of our boat on the stormy waters, I soon start to realize it was not cream but rather it must have been the effect of some overactive bacteria.
Without becoming graphic, let’s say it was good that we stand at the railing of the aft deck. 
After this minor incident I start to feel a lot better, and thoroughly enjoy our passage through the Gulf of Naples. On our left is the island of Ischia, on the right the coast of the mainland slides by, dominated by the slumbering giant, the Vesuvius.
Did you know that very recently the sea floor in this area moved up and down by more than a meter (yard)? Looking at the endless buildings on the shore, an agglomeration of more than 2 million people, I can only pray that the Vesuvius stays dormant a little longer.
After mooring we go on land and outside the harbor get caught up in groups of tourists with guides with small flags. We are right in the historic center where people primarily seem to be taking pictures of tiny streets full of flags and posters of the erstwhile soccer star Maradona. Being completely devoid of any knowledge of soccer (or sports in general), I have to look up his name on the internet.
Our apartment is brand new but only accessible through a building that suggests complete abandonment. Entered through a small door inside a huge unpainted and scratched door, we find ourselves on dirty concrete with puddles. But once inside the apartment everything looks perfect.
We walk through the streets packed with tourists, and visit the famous ´underground Naples,’ aptly described as Pompeii under Naples. We descend under the foundations of an old church and enter excavations that have unearthed a complete Roman market, with shops, a bakery, places where cloth were dyed and more - of course mostly in ruinous condition. But it all being underground makes it a fascinating experience.  
After a comfortable siesta we visit the Naples cathedral, an overwhelmingly beautifully decorated building. It feels as if I am taking a bath in culture. No matter where you look, there are paintings, sculptures, ornately decorated ceilings, mosaics. And nothing modern that needs an explanation. The hands of the masters are obvious.
After a quick bite in a fast food restaurant, Sisi (and I!) conclude Sisi’s cooking is much better. We pass a carrefour and  prepare a chicken and soup at home. 
Thoroughly satisfied we retire with tea and a good book. And I write my journal.
Good night, dear reader.

Comments

Roy
2023-12-03

Wij zijn ook in Napels, Hercolanum en Prochida geweest. Wat een cultureel hoogstaand gebied. Zit in mijn Top 3. Geniet ervan@

Roy
2023-12-03

Ga nog naar het permanente kerststraatje in Napels!

durieux
2023-12-04

Roy! Wat nu? Praten over kerst voordat de Goedheiligman is langs gekomen is je reinste heiligschennis! Maar Procida zal ik voor een volgende reis zeker in gedachte houden. Dank!

2025-02-07

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