The National Archeological Museum of Naples

Monday, December 04, 2023
Via dei Tribunali, 120, Campania, Italy
Monday December 4, 2023
A day in the National Archeological Museum of Naples. 
After a comfortable breakfast in our apartment we walk through the busy streets of Naples to the museum, only 15 minutes away. A grand classical building on a rather busy street full of small shops.
Inside we get the option to go to the mosaic section immediately, because they let people in at specific slots, and there are not many slots.
We receive protective cloth to put over our shoes, and then we forget the time in this section. The mosaics - of course - are beautiful, but I spend even more time on the archeological display of greco-roman objects.
As you undoubtedly know, ancient Greece was not very fertile. So as population in city-states grew, food became scarce, and hard decisions were made. A portion of the population had to find a home elsewhere. These new places were called ´colonies’. And the people who went there received much support from the mother city. Many of these colonies were founded in south Italy. In fact, the island of Iscias that we passed by boat yesterday, was probably the oldest greek colony.
South Italy became part of Magna Graecia, the greek speaking area. This was bound to run into trouble with the expansion of Rome, which ultimately led to the romanization of both southern Italy and Greece itself.
But the Romans recognized the superiority of greek thinking, and educated their children with greek teachers.
And the art created in this period (300 BC) is on display in this museum. Very beautiful and refined. Much is related to tombs, including statues of people, painted vases and urns, but also earrings, makeup boxes and bottles and jewelry. 
A hollow feeling in our stomach brings us back to modern times, and we eat lunch in an inner courtyard garden.
In the afternoon we spend most of our time in the department of Pompeii and Herculaneum. We see the originals taken from the excavations and I love the wall paintings of the Greek myths and sagas.
Especially pungent is a painting of Achilleus, forced to hand over the girl Briseis to king Agamemnon. Achilleus is so angry that he refuses to fight anymore. He has had it. And completely. Even when the Trojans force the Greeks back into the greek camp he refuses. 
Finally the Greeks convince Patroclos, Achilleus best friend, to ask for the weapons and pretend to be Achilleus. When Patroclos asks for the helmet and weapons, Achilleus doesn’t care. ´Do what you want, I don’t care.’
When Patroclos, dressed with the helmet of Achilleus, appears, great fear befalls the Trojans. They start to flee, but Hector, hero of the Trojans, encourages them to stay and fight. And he gives the example by attacking ‘Achilleus’ - and he kills him, because it’s Patroclos. And the fighting for that day is over.
Then the greeks bring the body of Patroclos to Achilleus. And Achilleus cries. Oh, how bitter he regrets now. His own stubbornness over a girl has resulted in the death of his best childhood friend. 
And that changes the war…
And another painting of Pelias, unrightful king of Iolcus. He had become king by killing all descendants of the rightful king, except Jason, smuggled out as a baby. An oracle had told him that he would lose his power when a man with only one sandal would appear.
One day Pelias and his daughters are offering a bull when Jason appears. He has lost his shoe while crossing a river.
Theresa painting shows Pelias, frozen in position. He sees only one thing : a man with only one sandal. He knows his reign is over. Marvelously painted.
And yes, this is the Jason that goes with the Argonauts to the Black Sea to find the Golden Fleece.
Ah so many stories. I wish I could teach an elementary school class, and tell them all about this. I would change their lives…
By now we are home again. Had a great dinner of chicken soup and noodle with meat.
Time to write my diary and relax. What a blessed man I am.
Buona notte, amico mio.

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batchie
2023-12-05

wonderful

2025-02-12

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