Our aim today is to reach Lobo, a small settlement north in the Serengeti.  The migration of the Wildebeest is towards the north now in the dry season, and the more spectacular sights are the river crossings. 

But me being me,  I don't want to watch it with lots of people (with lots of comments) around. So we hope to reach the Grumeti river, where according to our literature  the crossing is supposed to be more interesting than at the Mara river in the north. 

The Mara partially forms the border between Kenya and Tanzania, and the bordering area in Kenya - the Massai Mara - is one of the biggest tourist attractions in the region. I, therefore,  like to avoid it. 

We take our time in the morning to watch more wildlife, and even watch two cheetahs charge a group of gazelles far in the distance, and then start the trip north. 

The road is very bad, and although we can drive 50 or even 60 at some moments,  there are deep ruts, and in many places the road is washed away, so we have to stop completely and crawl through it. 

Also, in many spots there are big stones on the road. 

Nevertheless,  we make good progress, until an approaching car blinks his lights to indicate something is wrong. 

Despite lions and cheetahs I get out of the car, and see that the six supports of the roof rack have bent, and the rack is almost onto the rooftop. 

What to do? I see cracks in the metal, and with this road, the whole rack will break off. 

We take everything off and put it on our laps, but it becomes hard to breath and move. No room with the tents and backpacks on top of us. 

What to do? Back to Seronera and give up the migration? That is a bitter medicine. 

We stop another car, and the driver tells us there is a workshop in Migration camp. Also a luxury lodge is just over the hill. 

We decide to continue north! The Migration is calling. 

Half an hour of agonizing driving later, we see a sign for the Serena lodge. Stop? Continue? Drop off all extra luggage ?

We decide to ask for advice and drive over this new road through the wilderness. 

After 15 minutes we reach buildings and a man in uniform.  Behind him a large building that radiates luxury. 

His crisp safari-type uniform contrasts starkly with my dust covered clothes and face full of grime. 

He points us to another road to the staff camp. When we reach it, we are all hot and sweaty. The camp staff in simple clothes lives in small barracks without airco or running water. 

'Can you weld our roof rack? '

'No, because the power is off until the clients return. '

One man brings me through a path to the lodge, where a cool uniformed manager looks at my hot sunburned and dusty appearance.  

She is friendly but concerned about expenses. I tell her my credit card is good, and she relaxes. 

Soon we are back at the staff camp, empty the rack and with the help of many black hands, lift the rack off the car. An electric welding torch appears, pieces of metal are cut and two hours later our rack is stronger than ever before. 

I ask Didi to buy 10 Coca-Cola in the staff store, but he is allowed to buy only two. 'Does your father realize a bottle costs 1000 shilling? (40 cents).

It gets dark when we reach a cold and very windy campsite in Lobo. What a contrast with the heat further south. 

We cook with the locals in the caged area. When doing dishes in the dark outside next to a water tank, a guide washes for 16 people.  He loves singing and sings several Spanish songs. He does not know the meaning, so i try to translate what I can. Among others the intro song of 'Desperados' where Antonio Banderos sings: 'Yo soy un hombre mas honrados, que le gusta lo mejor...' 

When we are ready to go he asks us to wait for him, because he is afraid of leopards in the pitch dark. 

Serengeti nights...