More Wats & Water in Sukhothai

Friday, January 29, 2016
Sukhothai, Thailand
We've travelled 200 miles north and back in time from the kingdom of Ayutthaya to the previous kingdom of Sukhothai.



Capitalising on the Khmers' weakening hold on central Thailand, two Thai generals founded the kingdom of Sukhothai in 1238 which spread to incorporate most of modern Thailand and could be said to be its birthplace. Sukhothai flourished for over 200 years until it was absorbed by the southern Thai kingdom of Ayutthaya. The third and most important King was Ramhamhaeng who designed the Thai alphabet and adopted Theravada Buddhism as the state religion.

Thai art and architecture styles also began to develop at this time bringing the Sukhothai Buddha which have an ethereal appearance, as if rather than meditating, they are are already enlightened. Most are seated but artists also pioneered the particularly sinuous and elegant walking Buddha. Many of the chedis were modelled on the bell-shaped reliliquary tower symbolising Buddha's teachings ringing out far and wide, as well as introducing the graceful lotus-bud chedi, comprising a slender tower with a tapered finial in the shape of a lotus-bud which represents the purity of the Buddha's thoughts nudging through the muddy swamp and bursting into flower.

All these features can be see at Wat Maharathat, the most important and largest temple, with the main chedi also having a line of 168 Buddhist disciples clasping their hands together in salutation, round the base and a walking Buddha in an alcove.



 



When I was choosing an image from the Internet for the front of the blog, until we had taken our own photos, I used a photo of a seated Buddha from this wat, complete with lots of pink water lilies. When the latest Rough Guide was published, the same view was on the front cover! Hard acts to follow, and no pressure, especially as the lilies we not being very generous with their blooms, but this is the view we actually saw! We also returned at sunset and later to see the floodlit monuments.

 



Wat Sri Sawai shows its Khmer heritage with its three prangs, similar to wats at Ankor, and probably began as a Hindu temple. Stucco of nagas and deities provide a roost for pigeons and the side wall shows a common design to increase ventilation. Oh and look wat Chris found on the way to the wat ... happier after a drink but surely to young to be out on his own!

 


 
Wat Sa Si, entirely surrounded by water has a bell-shaped chedi and a metallic replica of a walking Buddha, full of grace.



These wats are all within walking distance, set within a park with just bicycles or tuk-tuks for transport. The grounds are beautifully kept and several of the wats are surrounded by moats or reflected in ponds and the pink water lilies are lovely.



After all those temples we deserved a cold drink and a rest, and ordered a lemon soda and green tea ... and look what we got! 

 

We are staying near the Historical Park in Thai Thai Sukhothai Guesthouse where we have been made most welcome.
 
 

We took a trip out to Si Satchanalai which was built to defend the kingdom northwards in Sukhothai's heyday and was ruled by one of its crown princes. Later when Sukhothai declined, it was annexed by the Lanna kingdom of Chiang Mai to the north. We hardly encountered anyone as we wandered round the six main wats making the experience quite atmospheric.



Wat Chedi Jet Taew is named for the 7 rows of small chedis thought to enshrine the royal rulers, which is why there had been an earlier ceremony offering respect to them.

 

 

The walking Buddha at Wat Phra Si Ratana is a fine example and while the 39 elephants at Chang Lom might be fully standing and larger than life, they are in a bit of a sorry state.





On our last day, we took a tuk-tuk a little out of town where we saw this restored Buddha in a hall decorated with paintings showing how it was made, Sukhothai in the past and the King visiting.

 

 

The most striking feature of Wat Sri Chum is the large solid mondop with a single narrow slit through which you can glimpse the serene face of a single large seated Buddha. There is a passageway between the inner and outer walls which was lined with pictures from the Jataka, depicting the life of Buddha and we saw them in the museum. One told the fable that if you take a horse to the same waterhole every day and it may not drink, but take it to a different waterhole each day then it remains happy and interested and will drink.

The Buddha image is itself quite striking, known as Phra Acana, which means 'one who is not frightened'. The long delicate fingers of his right hand extend down to summon the Earth Goddess and have been covered in bits of gold leaf by contemporary Thais. There are legends suggesting this Buddha can talk, either to inspire the Siamese army or frighten the Burmese army depending on the version, but both relying on the acoustic affects of the building and a hidden person speaking.


 
We couldn't miss Chang Lom, another Wat surrounded by elephants, some of which had been restored and given back their trunks. At the bottom of the info board it mentions chang means elephant and Lom means surround ... 


 
So taking a tip from the local beer ... 



when we looked round a family pottery still making Sawankhalok ware which was famous in the 14C for its grey-green glazes and plant and animal motifs, we chose an elephant and lion to bring home.



We spent the afternoon relaxing round the pool at a local hotel and tomorrow we leave the central plains and travel another 200 miles north ... to the mountains!

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