After a nice couple of days of riding, we reached Agra. We had more interesting sights along the way. A big surprise for us has been the camels. We see many camels every day, pulling carts loaded with all manner of things. One time I saw a caravan of 3 camels, and in the back of one cart was a mama goat and her baby, nestled into a bunch of bedding, and seeming to be enjoying the sunshine and the ride! So cute! We also saw a tractor pulling a cart full of bricks, only the cart was upside down and the rear of the tractor was up in the air. Reminded us of the spilled truckload of bricks we saw on the muddy road in Cambodia!
The road into Agra was the most chaotic thing we have ever experienced! Imagine a 2 lane road, with the obligatory multiple vehicles across, a foot deep drainage ditch along the edge, pony carts, tractors, the occasional cow, motorcycles galore, trucks, and a total cacophony of noise. To top it all off, we thought we had missed a turn, so at one point we crossed the road and backtracked along the sidewalk looking for our turn.
Fortunately, at that moment our sweep rider came along, and after we crossed the road again, he led us to the hotel! We never felt unsafe, but we will certainly have amazing bike handling skills when we get home!
On our rest day we hired a tuk-tuk to take us to the Taj Mahal and the Agra Fort. Both were wonderful! The reading I had done prepared me to be disappointed in the whole Taj experience: massive crowds, pollution, and difficulty actually getting a good view. However, we had a wonderful visit. After we passed through the massive red sandstone gate building, the Taj stood there in all her majesty. The crowds were light, the sky was blue, and the building glowed a glorious white. It was truly the awe-inspiring moment we had dreamed about! Our guide also took us around to the back side of the Taj complex. It is a huge complex, surrounded by the ubiquitous red sandstone walls, with ornately carved and decorated corner towers.
The Taj was built by Emperor Shah Jahan after the death of his favorite wife Mumtaz Mahal.
The were married for 18 years, and had 14 children together, and she died giving birth to the 14th. Of the 14, only 6 lived, 4 boys and 2 girls. The saddest part of the story is that later in life, one of the sons killed his 3 brothers and put his father under house arrest at the Agra Fort, where the royal family lived. From there, the Shah spent the last 8 years of his life gazing across the fields to the glistening dome of the Taj and mourning his wife. Or, so the story goes. When we visited the fort we were able to stand in the courtyard where it is said the king mourned.
The Agra Fort is a spectacular fort. Construction started in the mid-1500's, and succeeding rulers added on for the next 100 years. It is a huge red sandstone edifice with gardens, courtyards, halls for public and private audiences, and of course the royal living quarters. It is hard for us to imagine building on such a grand scale with only hand tools. The same can be said for the Taj Mahal.
Altogether, Agra did not disappoint!
Kate Vos
2019-02-02
Wow! You are having an amazing trip. I have never had a desire to go to India but I am so enjoying your trip. Eve you are an amazing writer. You could easily write for a travel magazine or even a book about your biking trips. The pictures are so good and your descriptions excellent. I am so glad you and Greg are able to do this! It’s a bit more exciting than Planks on a Friday night isn’t it! Be safe. I miss you.
Sally k
2019-02-02
Brings back wonderful memories. Love your pictures.
Blanche
2019-02-02
Loving reading about your adventures, Enjoy!!!
Jessica
2019-02-02
I love India. I am enjoying the reminder of what a beautiful country it is. I am not sure I’d have the courage to bike there though!
Camille
2019-02-02
Wonderful blog, Eve!! So glad that you are enjoying your trip.
Patty Nightingale
2019-02-04
The Taj is beautiful! Were you able to go inside it? Love the photo of you two with the Taj in the background.