Istanbul, back to the future!

Tuesday, January 14, 2014
Istanbul, Istanbul Province, Turkey
 









 
 As posted on Roscoe's Facebook page....
"Istanbul....1981 population 3mill, Efes beer, Raki, the Pudding Shop, Blue Mosque, water-pipes, kebabs, clack of backgammon, chai runners, rug shops, horns, touting shopkeepers, crowded trams...2014 add population 14mil, modern trams, skyscrapers, freeways, ATM's...but the character, heart & soul of the people is still here!"For Roscoe this is a return to a place he connected so closely with 33 years ago, for Evi, a tour of discovery to a place she has heard so much of yet has never visited. The adventure began in Salzburg and a flight of just over two hours with Turkish Airlines. Our first surprise was during the flight with the best service and food we have ever had in all our travels. The menu was based upon traditional Turkish recipes and was perfectly prepared, served and presented. Jumping forward we had the same experience on the return flight five days hence. In all we give Turkish Airlines a Five Star tick of approval.
  
Istanbul's Ataturk International Airport, one of two airports in Istanbul, was surprisingly large, incredibly busy, modern and efficient. We had read on Trip Advisor reports of chaos, long lines, delays and pickpockets being part of the Turkish welcome, however, we found facilities aplenty and very efficient Passport Control and Customs. Travelling with only hand luggage saved us from the tiresome process of baggage collection so we were through to the reception hall within 15 minutes. Our only displeasure was needing to pay for visa's (Roscoe US$60, Evi US$20).
 
We had intended to catch the train and Metro into Sultanahmet, which is the Old Town, which is about 22klm from Ataturk. As it was now after 6pm and was dark we opted for a taxi so that we could settle into the hotel then talk a walk. We knew that the journey should cost about Turkish Lira TL$40 so we asked the driver what would be the maximum cost if traffic was bad and he replied no more than TL$50 (Aus$25). It cost TL$38 as the traffic was so light, and we had a benchmark.

Istanbul? Just replay the descriptions of this ancient city from history books, novels, news. Remember the scenes in so many movies set in this metropolis....they perfectly describe the city but fall short on the sounds, smells, the assault on the senses and especially the vitality of the people. Since 1981 the city has been beautified, parks re-designed, paved roads re-paved and many of the ancient monuments totally renovated, and some, such as the underground Cisterns have been opened to the public. It is a very modern city now, and from Sultanahmet or from a ferry on the Bosphorus the skyline boasts glittering skyscrapers on both sides of this busy city. 
 
Just as everything changes, much stays the same, especially the Grand Bazaar which is arguably the oldest and largest undercover marketplace in the world. We have been told that up to 500,000 people can be found in the busy alleys, vaulted halls, arcades and streets of the Bazaar district, a number easy to believe once you have spent a full day exploring this awesome building. The bazaar has many entrances, but the main archway heralds a wide internal street which dips and rises slightly only to disappear in definition in the distance. This is the street of jewellers displaying an unknown tonnage of gold, ruby, sapphire, pearl, diamonds and enough watches to deafen you. 
 
Sultanahmet was a memory reawakening for Roscoe as he and several friends journeyed here in his VW stationwagon in 1981. We found the tiny boardinghouse where they rented a room, which was next door to The Pudding Shop, a cafe established in 1957 but made famous in the movie Midnight Express in 1981. The shop was actually very well known during the late 60's thru the 80's as a meeting point for both intrepid young travellers on overland journeys from India to Europe, and also for the hippie culture who enjoyed the freedom, and adventure, of Istanbul. We stopped outside to have a look and the manager came out to talk. It turns out that he worked every day in the Pudding Shop as a boy, and he was sure that he must have served Roscoe and his friends in 1981. We were invited inside and served Chai (black tea with sugar in a "waisted glass" like an hour glass) and he brought out photos and news clippings from that time for us to see. His hospitality and manners reflected all our dealings with the Turkish people.  
 
We both left this city tired from activity, excited by what we dis and in love with the essence of the place, the people and the culture. Now let our photos do the talking! 

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