Friday, May 10
Dusseldorf - Zakynthos - Kellini - Kefalonia
So, this post is getting done a little sooner than expected. You see, I've got some time to kill waiting for the ferry to Kefalonia. And no, a ferry to Kefalonia was not originally in the plans for today. The explanation is coming up. But first back to Dusseldorf - and for that I'll borrow (steal?) a line from Erin: "Have you ever met a Dorf that wasn't awesome?" Now, it only just dawned on me (I blame the lack of sleep, delicious German beer and sudden change in travel plans) that Erin actually is a Dorf.
My hotel was perfectly located on the edge of the Altstadt so after a quick shower and change into some not-slept-in-on-the-plane clothes I was out the door to roam the Old Town and bordering Rhine riverbank.
Within seconds I was left with no doubt that Dusseldorf had rightfully earned the "World's Longest Bar" title. It took only that long to notice that the preferred method for exploring the Altstadt is with a big beer in your hand. Then again, I suppose that's the preferred method for a lot of things. Safe to say open container... yeah, that's not a thing here. And special props to the guy wheeling around a mini-keg in a wagon. In the middle of the day. On a Thursday.
While there's no question beer-in-hand is the general rule, when it comes to music, anything goes. Within a few steps of each other packed bars and clubs were trying to outdo each other blasting an almost indecipherable mix of German death metal, techno, traditional beer garden favorites and... Eye of the Tiger. But that cacophony was nothing compared to the mass sunset salsa dance fest I stumbled upon along the Rhine.
Getting a drink in Dusseldorf is clearly not an issue. Food, on the other hand... let's just say there were a number of restaurants that were quickly eliminated from the equation.
The only thing to rival the number of bars (and by rival I mean measure maybe 5% of the number) is churches. And as it turns out, the World's Longest Bar thing? Well, for some people, it seems the line between bar and church was a bit blurred at times.
By about 9pm, the hours of wandering along cobblestone streets mixed with the five hours of sleep I got on the red-eye and the realization that I'd have to leave for the airport at 4:30 in the morning (and oh yeah, the walking around with big beer thing) were all starting to take their toll so I said gute nacht to the Dorf (Dussel not Bollen) and made my way back to the hotel.
A quick check of my email resulted in the next (extended) installment of good news / bad news and the previously promised explanation of today's ferry adventure.
The good news: After days of bad winds delayed Francis and Erika's departure from Sicily they had finally arrived in Greece.
The bad news: The winds made getting to Zakynthos impossible so instead they arrived at Kefalonia - the island north of Zakynthos.
By the time I read her email, Erika had already started looking into options for me to get from Zakynthos to Kefalonia.
Good news: There are many ferries in the Greek Islands.
Bad news: Direct ferries from Zakynthos to Kefalonia doesn't start until May 15th. So, yup, more bad news... connecting ferries.
Good news: Erika had found schedules for the ferries and the bus I'd have to take from the ferry port on Kefalonia across the island to Argostoli.
Bad news: This caveat.. "Please don't rely on that information. I only hope it is correct."
Right. Me too!
And with that, it's time for Planes, Trains & Automobiles, the Greek version: Planes, Ferries & Buses.
Auf wiedersehen Dusseldorf.
Turns out Air Berlin's approach into Zakynthos took us right over the bay at which I was supposed to meet Erika and Francis. I know this because figuring my Greek was a little lacking (or more accurately, non-existent) I printed out a little map and planned to point it out to my cab driver.
Instead I got to use some hastily learned (thank you Google translate) and incredibly poorly spoken broken Greek. Remarkably "porthmeio va Killini" got me to the ferry terminal. By myself. Four hours before the ferry.
A sign in the locked up ticket booth said tickets were available in town - just a short walk to the other side of the harbor. Well, short if you're not lugging a 16 kilo (about 35 pounds) duffel and a backpack. I made it to the sales office and continued on an ill-advised backache-inducing walk through Zakynthos Town before wising up and parking myself at a taverna for some tzatziki, grilled octopus and a chilly Mythos. And that's when I saw this behemoth pulling in. The Ionian Star. Slightly larger than the boat I planned on joining in Zakynthos.
An hour ferry ride landed me in Killini and my second taverna of the day, with my second Mythos of the day, waiting for my second ferry of the day. The bartender here is clearly a fan of the 80's - this could be my ipod playing right now. I'm in that "I wonder what will come on next" mode. Hello New Order.
Erika's planning was spot on and with a bit of good fortune there was a bus to Argostoli waiting at the Poros ferry terminal. I didn't even have to break out my well-rehearsed "lofori'o va Argostoli?"
Finally, six hours, two taxis, two ferries, one plane and one bus later, I had arrived at the Argostoli terminal where Erika and Dodger the dog were waiting.
(Not even) One Night in Zakynthos
Friday, May 10, 2013
Zakynthos Town, Ionian Islands, Greece
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