Sound Of Silence

Tuesday, December 21, 2004
Te Anau, New Zealand
So here it is, merry Christmas - and we're having fun despite 'unseasonable' weather (but they said that last year...). A sudden sunny day sent us rattling up the Milford Road from Te Anau to the Divide, the lowest point of the Southern Alps, for an assault on the other end of the Routeburn Track. A sweaty climb was well rewarded with spectacular views, including snow-capped peaks, Lake Marian in a hanging valley and an avalanche. Tearing ourselves away, we returned via Howden Hut and its adjacent pretty lake to the road, where a kea flying display was in progress. (they get bored if there are no hiking boots around for them to wreck). A helpful DoC parkie interrupted his cup of tea to confirm that yes, it was sunny that afternoon at Milford Sound. Exit in a cloud of dust...

The Milford Road is an engineering marvel, running past colossal rockwalls, and goes through the rough-hewn Homer Tunnel, down a serious switchback, through forests and then ('ta da') to the Sound . And there it was - Mitre Peak, the Lion and all the rest in sun, with snow on the
tops, inaccessible forests and a daylight moon above. As we arrived it would have been quieter at Heathrow, but within a few minutes the flights had gone and we had the place almost to ourselves. The only noise was a roaring waterfall and a few seabirds, and it took a real effort to tear ourselves away for the 2 hour drive home. This was extra fun as they turn off the traffic lights in the tunnel after 6pm - although there are passing places, it takes an act of faith to go through!

As I write we are ensconced in one of our favourite hostels, Jimmy's Freestone Backpackers above Manapouri, with the tinsel contrasting nicely with the foxgloves and lilac flowering outside. (very odd!) Andy is having fun cooking with the pot-belly stove and chopping wood, and its on to Wanaka on Christmas Eve.

with no TV and limited radio, this Christmas has sneaked up quietly, so instead of our usual cry of 'bah humbug', we wish you a hopeful Christmas and a brave new year, and all the associated good things.lots of love and enjoy the turkey!
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