Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, France
Today is our last day in Nice. We decided to walk along the Promenade Du Anglais; the area in which the terrorist used a large truck to rundown and kill some 80 locals who were out celebrating Bastille Day back in 2016. We weren’t drawn to this area because of this, more that we wanted to sample our own little bit of the Côte d’Azur (French Riviera). We had heard about the beaches, wide avenues and the seaside eateries.
We had planned to see more of the city via some tram surfing for a little while. Nice has a major tram network which creates a backbone through the centre to either end. A trip that takes some 50 minutes from end to end. We find travelling on these networks, gives us a wider perspective and understanding of everyday life. We do this wherever we can. I found the suburb names such as Saint Charles, Jean Medecin, Palais de Expositions, St Roch all interesting. Indeed, I find the French language interesting. Not that I can say not much more than “bonjour, wee (especially when I am looking for a public convenience) and merci.
At the conclusion of our tram rides, we decided to walk toward the seaside boulevardes passing the Nice marina area where many boats like those in Monaco were moored. Many similarities to this marina to the Billionaires’ Quay in Monte Carlo. Further around the headland and to the well known panoramic viewing area which looks down the promenade. At the northern end, it is known as Promenade Raula Capeu. The more southern end is the Promenade Des Anglais.
The area overlooks the Côte d’Azur and just off the coast (about 200 metres), serves as the flight path for landing air traffic at Nice airport. The latter providing a spectacular view every few minutes with the planes that were coming into land. Shadows from the very low flying aircraft positioned on the very azure blue water fascinated me. Fred was somewhat non-fussed !!
However, these planes were “stacked” up (aeronautical term) and tracking to land every 3 minutes or so. The flight path paralleled to shoreline, and then banking left to line up the runway.
Quite an unusual site really. I could have sat there for a sustained period and be entertained.
Typically, we along with many others were here to take advantage of the elevated position to look along the beach and admire the many hues of blue (azure) that were in the water. We have included one to highlight this in addition to the aircraft shadow in the picture gallery. “Quite stunning”, I recall Fred remarking. For a moment I thought that she needed to go to “specsavers” as I thought she was making reference to me. After some clarification, it became apparent that she was making reference to a French fellow walking past.
The beach in Nice is entirely rumble and pebbles. Some quite large: remnants from the weathered down limestone and dolomite which requests this whole area. The limestone would also assist with the water colour.
Such beaches are rare in Australia: we are commonly used to the sandy ones. As most of South-East Australia has sandstone headlands, when this breaks down, obviously sand is then washed up and deposited.
The beaches here are also very narrow: generally about 10-15 metres wide. Still, from a geomorphological perspective, these are beaches: areas where sea going sediment, is deposited. It just seems a little crazy that people lay on these and find it comfortable.
It was time to descend to the beach and promenade: the locals were then treated to a rare sight. Many couples were walking down the promenade, staring into each other’s eyes and trading the odd passionate kiss. Not to be left out of this act of true love, another couple were seen to join in. After all, a little bit of “amour” in France is appropriate, isn’t it ?
I could sense many were watching: perhaps jealous or even contemplating emulating ? One did not know whether to continue or perhaps undertake a self-restraining position and cease this on this occasion. After all, it was a Sunday and there were children around. For the moment, a decision was made to continue. It seemed that she was enjoying the attention and oblivious to the world orbiting the sun and the moon, with jet’s landing noise in the background.
Being scantily clad and thereby receiving more than the appropriate dose of vitamin D, one felt it was time to cease this rather amorous act. It was an individual, spur of the moment decision: most eloquently performed.
All I did, was to walk between this pair. Enough was enough. Besides it wasn’t all that long ago that I had breakfast !! Fair is fair I thought. My safety was in question, as while I was preoccupied watching this amorous couple, I ran into a bench, tripped over 2 dogs and walked into a light pole. It was my civic duty to intervene. I wonder what Fred would have done. She was off seeking out a public convenience at the time.
I then felt that I should do as the locals and join them on the beach. I looked for a small flat area upon which to lay. Fred laughed and recalled the time that a similar situation happened when we were in Turkey. “You still look the same: a fur seal being washed up”. I know the truth does hurt sometimes, but I tried not to show any superficial reaction to this: deep down however I was scarred for life.
Further down the promenade, after passing the point at which we thought the act of terrorism had occurred, we decided to treat ourselves at one of the Plages. These are restaurants set up on the beach.
Here we had a very nice (as opposed to Nice) Rose ( I did ask for a “rose B”, of the waiter: no response) and seafood salads. The latter was rather exceptional. A great couple of hours spent here in the French sun.
The Promenade Des Anglais is only a short walk from the old city; our next target. Time for a “pit-stop”. In Europe you pay for the convenience. Generally, €0.50 per person. Fred presented the female attendant €1 for both of us. To which she replied “oui” (“wee”). I think I got a good deal, because unbeknown to the attendant, I had intentions of doing more than a “oui”. I didn’t mention anything, as I feel she have become somewhat flushed had I told her. Better left as is, I thought.
Further down the way, after securing the necessary gelati and Fred admiring the statute of Apollo (she had practised on David in Florence and so now had become quite adept at this occasion presenting itself) we walked around looking at antiquities.
Finally catching the light rail back to Gare Nice Ville. The station very near our hotel.
Just a word on the trams. It is reputed that the tramway is (perhaps) the largest art gallery in the world. When designed, a number of artists were commissioned to provide some aspects of the light rail with their skills. Resulting in different designs of the many stations, mood music for the announcements on the tram itself and the design of the carriages. For example, the announcements of the upcoming stations, are vibrant and jazzy in the mornings, whereas in the evening, these are much more seductive. The locals seem oblivious to these; Fred and I felt they were amusing. A novelty nonetheless less.
Nice overall, is a place well worth a visit: perhaps not all that much in the city itself (other than the promenade), but more for its location. A trip to Monaco (especially should you desire biscuits) and perhaps Cannes: the latter we did not go to due to lack of time.
We had experienced the French Riveira.
John Dunn
2019-04-11
I was a bit surprised you did not find the Arnett's factory even with Monte Carlo and Nice. Are you sure you could not find Tim Tam. I don't think you looked hard enough Parno. Great to see that you are hsaving a good trip. JD
David D
2019-04-12
More chuckles! Not sure I know of rumble on beaches ? In the jungle maybe? Keep up the good work. I can imagine the numerous distractions you’re so admirably avoiding
Julie&wayne
2019-04-12
Great photos. Beatiful scenery. Hope you both have great holiday. “”Don’t lose all your money at the casino “. Enjoy. Par on in action
Julie
2019-04-12
Sorry Ian I made the mistake in showing Wayne your amazing email of your grand tour of the Rivera WHEN HE WAS WATCHING THE “” PANTHERS “happy to see you are have a great time. Be careful of those rocky beaches
John S
2019-04-12
We are enjoying your travel experiences but have to admit that we are a little bit envious. Thelma loves the locations and I the food!! Take care and enjoy.
Jilliann Eldest Daughter
2019-04-15
WOW that water is crystal clear
Jacquie
2019-04-30
I must say Nice still looks nice (it's been a while since I was there).