Freezing at Ziro

Sunday, February 15, 2015
Ziro, Arunachal Pradesh, India
For long I have wanted to visit Ziro. With a name like that, its an irresistible attraction ! Arunachal Pradesh is full of places with interesting names - take your pick from Miao, Singing, ....... I chose Ziro !

Ziro is an old town, located at a height of 8000 ft . Summers are very pleasant, but winters are cold - at the fag end of winter now, it's still very cold. It's the home of the Apatani tribe, one of the important tribes of Arunachal Pradesh. Ziro has been on the shortlist for UNESCO World Heritage Site status ; one of these days that is bound to happen.

The scenery around Ziro is lovely. Pine clad hills, and rice fields all around makes for very pleasant surroundings. This is not the best time of the year to come here - during and post rains, I believe the greenery is even more stunning. But this is good enough for me and I am drinking in the atmosphere suitably braced for the cold. One of the advantages of traveling by car is that you don't have to watch what you pack. My car looks like a small shop. So no shortage of woolens - fully clad, I must weigh twice my normal weight !

I am staying in a log cabin - wood being one of the best ways to keep out the cold. It's a charming place, away from the town itself . Completely serene and silent, it makes for a lovely stay. Power is infrequent and is only for about 12 hours a day or so. Mobile connectivity is poor. What better way to be cut off from civilization, although the town itself, where everything exists is only 4 kms away. The place is new being just 3 years old, and was opened by the daughter of the British administrator who founded this district -Subansiri - in 1946. He , and his family, are held in high esteem by the Apatanis. This is a recurring theme, we will find all around in Arunachal Pradesh . It was the British who brought the tribes into the mainstream and the person who did it is much loved and respected even today.

The Ziro music festival, held in October, has become a cult event. It is apparently the largest outdoor music event of its kind in the country. The music is however rock, heavy metal and all modern stuff - no traditional music at all. Groups from all over the country and some from other countries come . Hordes of visitors land up . The meager accommodation around gets filled up and most visitors simply pitch tents around the venue. Not my type of entertainment, but if you fancy such things, come to Ziro in October.

The only negative of Ziro is the appalling roads that lead up to it. It took me 8 hours today to cover 150 odd kms. Its going to be like this for all my time in Arunachal Pradesh - speeds of 10-20 kmph is all that is possible. Twisty hill roads require intense concentration and this is the first time I am feeling the solo drive ; there just isn't the time to look out of the window and take in the glorious scenery of the drive. Would any of you like to fly in and take over half the driving ? Vincy ?!!

PS : No internet or mobile connectivity for the last three days; hence the silence. I am doing good; thanks to all who enquired. Even now, the bandwidth is tiny; so I can't load photos. I'll publish the text and then notify you when I am able to upload the photos (probably in 4 days). The photos are lovely; so worth waiting for !!

PPS: Photos uploaded now
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Comments

Suja
2015-02-17

Oh I just have to go to Singing one day! Who can resist such names?? Not me!! Ziro sounds great but I confess, much as I love the beauty of wilderness, I prefer to stay in comfort! Running hot and cold water, flush toilets, reasonable heating or cooling, clean and comfy beds- these make travel so much more enjoyable to me!! My kids go camping, pitch their tents in the middle of nowhere, go without a shower for a few days and wash up in the river, heat tins over campfires- and I wonder how they think of it as fun!!!

Sandhya Sriram
2015-02-17

In a wooden cottage freezing at Ziro, what an experience. i had never heard so far that a place called Ziro existed in India and waiting eagerly for the pictures. But your description is so lively, i can already visualize what it must be. amazing Ramesh.

Vincy Joseph
2015-02-17

Freezing at Ziro - I am glad your pun is intact, inspite of the weather. ha ha ha and what fancy names around Arunachal pradesh.
Joining you in your travel - am ready anyday, but you know what Ramesh, today I hit 90 km/hour on the highway and thats an accomplishment of sorts for me. :-) So 10 -20 km/hr speeds are not very attractive. :-) :-)
When you say the greenery is attractive, it should be - will await the pictures.
And yes you are really cut-off from the civilisation.

Anne in Salem
2015-02-18

10 - 20 km/hr?? How much worse must it be during the rains?

Are you catching up on your reading during this disconnected time? What a wonderful opportunity, even if you are freezing. Oregon is almost summery now, with daffodils and crocuses blooming a bit early.

Eager for pictures!

Asha
2015-02-18

OMG! It sure seems like an eco-tourist place and i am also sure most of the world would'nt have heard of these places...Ziro, singing,Miao.....new nouns in my vocab now. Turn this travel experience into a book and it sure will hold a honorable place in my book shelf. And yes, please an autographed book.

Many thanks for this virtual tour. Do you interact with the localites there?

A big Zero here
2015-02-18

I had no idea about Ziro and everything else you write about ...
will watch out for the photos .... safe travels, even at 10 mph ... (yes, mph, not kph!!!)

indigoite
2015-02-19

@Suja - Oh, I have all of that here. I too am partial to those comforts, considering that the youthful; days of adventure are somewhat behind !!

@Sandhya - This should be he headquarters of GBS !! What say you !

@Vincy - Oh wow. I'll have to wait to come back to Orissa to get back o 90 kmph. Expert driver you are turning into ! So creditable.

@Anne - Rains and this becomes strictly SUV territory. Monsters of the type our good Prof has only allowed ! Not reading much. Talking to lots of people though.

@Asha - Totally flattered. Gone to my head :)

indigoite
2015-02-19

@Not a big zero - MPH ????? Grrrrrr

Thomas
2015-02-20

Thanks for the tip - I hope to be able to attend the Ziro festival to enjoy the music and the scenery one fine day ! Looking forward to see your pictures of this amazing region. Cheers, T.

indigoite
2015-02-21

@Thomas - Ha Ha. Not your type of music I suspect,

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