Kaza, Himachal Pradesh, IndiaKaza : Altitude - 3750 mtrs ; 12,300 ft
At long last, I am finally here.
Kaza, the headquarters of Spiti District and my base for the next few days. It is to get here, that I have been driving all these days !
Kaza is a small town, but this is where all Spiti travellers come to. Hotels, guest houses and home stays abound. The population doubles in the summer and autumn months with all the travellers coming here and staying for a few days. But in another 20 days, all hotels will shut down and everybody but the long term residents will leave as the town bunkers up for the winter. Its already well below Zero in the nights. December onwards temperature lows are below minus 20. Water completely freezes up and there is no piped water.
It's convenient for travellers because it has all the visitor facilities and is at a relatively lower altitude of 3800 mtrs where you can come down to sleep after exploring nearby at whatever altitudes you want to. It's in the valley between high mountains and right besides the Spiti river.
There is obviously a monastery here, the Sakya monastery - after all this is deep into Tibetan Buddhist country.
And of course I went to the morning prayers, this time at a more civilised hour of 8.00 AM. The prayers were a group chanting by the monks, complete with blowing of the conch, crashing of the cymbals and the beating of the drum. It was a great way to start the day, warming the heart, inspite of the bitter cold. They didn't allow photos, and respecting that, I didn't take any.
Visitor numbers are dwindling as this is the fag end of the season. And so, it wasn't crowded which is one reason why I chose this time of the year to come ! In any case, those who come are the serous travellers and so I wouldn't have minded if there were lots of them anyway. No children at all - families won't take the risk with AMS. This is an adults only destination, for different reasons !
Foreigners need permits to come here, Indians can come freely. There are still a fair number of foreigners here; its become a magnet for the exploring global traveller. I had met a Chinese guy in Kalpa who wanted to come here, but the authorities refused to give him a permit - Chinese are not wanted !! Israelis have become notorious here.
They used to come in droves, but I was told their numbers are declining. Presumably high altitude and weed go together and they have become so notorious that many hotels have banned Israelis altogether and they have to make do with homestays ! This is something new about Israelis that I had no clue about.
I am staying here at a small hotel run by an amazing guy. Very young, he spent his teens and twenties cycling around Latin America. He has travelled to half the world probably, and then "retired" from this at the ripe old age of 30, fell in love with Spiti and started a hotel here ! I could talk to him for months, except that everybody wants to talk to him and he has his hands full running the hotel.
Meanwhile I refuelled my car at what is being billed as the highest fuel station in the world !! Indians love such claims. Tomorrow I climb to the high villages. Driving, of course. I am too old to trek. There will be a couple more of such claims in the days to come.
Sandhya Sriram
2018-10-05
You are probably the best example that age is only in the mind... so you can never age... yes you can choose to different things like trekking with your trusted horse instead... !!! Btw, can you touch the snow in this place?
Shobhit
2018-10-05
Wow Chief, You could also very well be the best storyteller with great eloquence. thanks for sharing..Loved the journey, experiences and how you have spent this time. Waaah!!
indigoite
2018-10-05
@Sandhya - Aww. I shall remain forever young if I have you as a commenter regularly flattering !!
indigoite
2018-10-05
@Shobhit - Hey Shobhit; great to see you here. If you ever take your beast to Spiti, it will be an altogether different matter :)
Suja
2018-10-06
I'm fascinated by your travels..
Vishal
2018-10-06
Well... I could only gasp and wait !! This journeybof yours is truly incredible and awe inspiring... may be one day some day for many such days !!
indigoite
2018-10-06
@Suja - :)
indigoite
2018-10-06
@Vishal - Thanks Vishal for your comments and for following this travelogue.
Anne in Salem
2018-10-07
You are an inspiration to us all - a gentle reminder to enjoy the journey, not just the destination. Most of your fellow visitors missed 90% of the experience by focusing on destination only. Love your writing, enjoying the respite in my day to read it, jealous of your adventure.
Anne in Salem
2018-10-07
I told Peter you went paragliding, his favorite hobby. He's flown on three continents so far but hasn't been to Bir. He certainly knew of it though!
indigoite
2018-10-07
!Anne - Awww. Thank you. Oh Peter is an ace paraglider is he ? Yes, he may have heard of Bir as the world paragliding championships come there sometimes.
MCS
2018-10-07
Glad to know you managed to stay out of rains - seems I am also travelling with you - u have a good narrative style - Dada told us about your trip (to answer ur earlier Q) - look forward to the tales from the rest of the journey - tc - wish I could travel like you
indigoite
2018-10-07
@Srikanth - Hey Srikanth, thanks for travelling with me. Much appreciate your comment on narrtive style, but the WAC RA gave me only a B+ :):)
Shachi
2018-10-08
Hmm so no kids because of AMS - this backward reading of your posts is not good :). Fascinating write up again - I’ve heard and read about this place, it you bring it alive. And as others have echoed, it’s not the destination but the journey to get there that we will cherish.
indigoite
2018-10-09
@Shachi - Plus this is not a kid's place. There's little to interest them. Magnificent vistas are very adultish, isn't it.