Shimla, Himachal Pradesh, India
Had a long, but uneventful drive to Shimla. The previous day, there had been a big landslide and traffic was completely stopped for the whole day. No buses could get through to Kaza and therefore there were no buses going down today. The road had opened, but many people were stranded because of no buses. I gave lifts to seemingly an endless number of people, but sadly I had to say no to many more , simply because there was no space in my car. I picked up a lady first as soon as I left at 6.30 - she had been waiting on the roadside from 4.30 AM in the bitter cold . I picked up a jawan going on home leave to Vizag. I picked up two elderly Kinnaur women. A few men too. Chatting with all of them made the return trip interesting.
The drive brought me to Shimla which is the gateway to exit the state. I am guilty of disparaging Shimla, especially to my good friend Anuj, who has a strong connection to the place. I imagined Shimla to be the usual messy, impossibly crowded, dirty, chaotic hill town. Why would anyone want to go to Shimla, I remarked to Anuj.
Boy, how wrong I was.
You see, as the evening wore on, I went to the Mall. And got thoroughly charmed. The Mall is, of course a reminder of the British Raj. It is a pedestrian only street (I can't remember any other street in India which is pedestrian only). There's a nip in the air, but it has not yet become cold here. Perfect weather. The visitors are obvious to spot - they are all holding cameras. The locals are gaily attired.
As I entered the Mall from one end, the Army Training Command has an imposing building. And right there is the photo and homage to Second Lieutenant Arun Khetarpal PVC. He was the 14th recipient of the Param Vir Chakra and was martyred in the 1971 War in the Battle of Basantar. He was from the Poona Horse; so not sure why he is remembered in Shimla, but anyway it was fitting to salute a hero. Onwards on the Mall, the charm is obvious. The colonial era buildings. People are sitting in the park benches chatting. The shops have retained their character - its not a chaotic shopping district.
Cafes are lovely. The Simla Club. The Cecil, more than 100 years old as a hotel. Of course there were many people on the Mall, but it wasn't crowded. I went into a cafe and ended up having the most gorgeous coffee gazing into the skyline of Shimla.
As I sipped my coffee, the sun was going down. It was the perfect way to end my trip to Himachal - a wonderful experience when I least expected it. I reflected on the stunning vistas I had seen. I reminisced the difficult and the charming drives. I thought about the nice people I had met . And I remembered the experiences, which even if they fade away over time, will never be forgotten.
I said a mighty prayer of thanks. The car performed magnificently. Not a squeak, even when asked to do things a sedan should not be asked to do. My companion has been the true hero. I have been blessed with good health without a trace of AMS, that I feared. And luck has been with me all the while for which I am eternally grateful.
A big thank you to all who have followed this travelogue and even more to those who have taken the time to comment. My trips are physically solo, but never alone. And in the more challenging moments of the trip, it's your encouragement and support that gives me strength.
The sun has gone below the horizon, and the lights have started to twinkle. I am sunk in my thoughts. How many more such trips would I be able to make ? I am unlikely to pass this way again, but I hope somebody dear to me will, and may the mountains be as kind as they have been to me.
The coffee has lifted me up. The camera comes out one last time for a photograph of the twinkling lights of Shimla. I give a long lingering look. And then turn back. It is time to go home.
This blog will remain here along with my other travel blogs of the past years which have also been ported here. It will remain in hibernation until, if and when, the urge to travel strikes again.
MCS
2018-10-11
Thanks once again Ramesh for taking all of us on a journey with you. Look forward to your next trip and of course, the travelogue
Suja
2018-10-12
Endings are always like that aren't they, a strange mix of sadness and happiness, the kind of sadness which is not possible if the happiness had not been there. Shimla looks charming and it seems a lovely place to bring the story to an end. You have given lifts to a number of people on your ride above, but you have been giving us 'virtual' lifts all the way, so thank you very much!
Sandhya Sriram
2018-10-12
This was a wonderful trip Ramesh. Truly a photo finish at Shimla. Come tom, there would be a void in our lives too... as we can’t anymore look forward to what are you upto. I am sure you’d find something equally interesting for us to visit with you soon!!! PS: I’ll look forward to helping you finish some of your edible memories on your return :)
Dada
2018-10-12
Thank you for sharing your experiences. You do write beautifully. I am well aware that the solitude you use so effectively to gain these experiences has come at a cost. Know that those who follow you are your family, and you are never alone.
indigoite
2018-10-12
@MCS - Hey Srikanth, thanks for following the travelogue so diligently and for your kind comments.
indigoite
2018-10-12
@Suja - Thank you for your very wise comments, for your encouragement and for being such a wonderful reader and commenter. Hugely cherish our association.
indigoite
2018-10-12
@Sandhya - Thank you milady. Much appreciate your commenting on every single post despite a high pressure corporate life. Will catch up.
indigoite
2018-10-12
@Dada - Thank you my friend for such a kind comment. I am honoured.
Anne in Salem
2018-10-13
What a poetic ending. Your writing is excellent; you could compile your various travelogues into a book that would be most appealing. I hope the magic of Shimla carries you home safely. Thank you.
indigoite
2018-10-13
@Anne - Thank you for your kind words as always and for your curiosity in reading about places that must seem so alien to you.
Vishal
2018-10-16
Such great humility and passion.. you are truly an inspiration ! Wish you many more such travels - I am sure you would unravel many of them :) Happy Homecoming ! :)
indigoite
2018-10-17
@Vishal - Thanks for the kind words Vishal and for following the travelogue.
Asha
2019-04-17
What an amazing,mindblowing travelogue. Wonderful stories & anecdotes.. Infact the stories of unsung people like the hotelier in spiti & sea buckthorn entrepreneur story appealed to me the most. You brought the place alive for us with your description. Stunning visuals of Chandratal, spiti. Keep traveling Ramesh, travelers are great storytellers. I missed the
Asha
2019-04-17
It got posted before I could finish... I missed traveling vicariously during the actual trip but , nevertheless caught up with the posts. Better late than never. Apologies, it totally slipped amongst many things.
indigoite
2019-04-18
@Asha - Wow, you came here after so long. Much honoured.