Magical MONA

Friday, December 29, 2023
Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
Today we headed in different directions. Clare and Tony were catching up with their friends, Karen and Darren, and Ken and I were going to MONA - the Museum of Old and New Art. We enjoyed breakfast together at a little cafe, Vilicia. We had coffees and pre-prepared yoghurt or sago cups. It was enough to start the day.
I had dressed for yesterday. It had been cold. Now I was overdressed as the sun looked promising. We popped back to the hotel, recalibrated and hit the street, saying goodbye to Tony and Clare waiting for their pick up in the foyer. We walked down Salamanca Street, thinking we could wander through the famous Saturday markets. However, there were so many people, we had to skirt around the edge or risk missing our ferry.
The ferry to MONA is the start of the experience. They have two big ferries Mona Roma I and II, loudly decorated with camouflage colours and statues of animals. Inside there is a bar and cafe and art painted onto the walls. The ride was about 30 minutes and took us along the river. Everything had been pre-booked and we had the app on our phones. We were ready.
Arriving at Mona you see the bottom of the mega complex and 99 stairs to the entrance. The museum was built to be approached by water to get the complete experience. So we did. When we reached the top we could see a a series of large, dark buildings, an exciting play area, green grass and a tennis court. A musician cycled by on a tricycle, welcoming us. The views back across the river were beautiful.
We entered and were given instructions to start at the bottom and work our way up. Most of the museum is underground. We walked down many stairs until we could go no further. The fun had begun. 
Mona is a dazzling, eclectic collection of art. Some is way out there, some is traditionally accepted fine art, some is confronting and some is baffling. The building itself is a work of art. It twists and turns up levels, through tunnels and over slopes. It engages all of your senses and fills you with a sense of joy and wonder. We loved it! 
We took a little time out for a coffee back on the lower floor, where there were many people taking selfies as they enter the experience. But for the most, we were fully immersed for about 1 1/2 hours before we went to our lunch booking.
I wanted the full Mona experience, so I had booked us lunch at The Source, one of the fine dining experiences at the museum. There are also casual places to sit in the sun, with live music playing and plenty of seating options.
The Source was all we had hoped it would be. It is at the top of the Mona site and focuses on seasonal Tasmanian dining. The service was professional and friendly. The wine was delicious and the food was amazing. I had wild harvest Tasmanian venison with cherries and beetroot, Ken had an eggplant, kale, almond cream, vegetarian delight with a seeded tortilla lots of native herbs. Both were so good. We ordered a side of paris mash, so much delicious butter with creamy potato. For dessert I had a pannacotta, with cherries and a cherry sorbet,  an almond daquoise and carob tuiles. Ken had a pretty apricot cheesecake dish with a yoghurt sorbet. We enjoyed some great local wines and the waiter opened a spectacular dessert riesling for us which paired really well with the apricot flavours of Ken’s dish. It was an amazing meal.
We had booked our return ferry for 3pm, but were not rushing out of lunch. We were able to change it for the 4pm and explored the outer areas while we waited. It really is a spectacular place. Another lovely ferry ride home with a coffee to replenish our energy and we were soon back in Hobart.
We wandered back through Salamanca. The crowds had gone and the market awnings were now being packed up. We walked through St David’s Park, the site of the first graveyard and church in Tasmania. The graveyard has been condensed into a short walk of a lot of ancient headstones in walls. We could see the history of families and many children who died in the city. The park also has a beautiful rotunda. It is not accessible, but an artist has created an audio installation, encouraging you to walk around, disconnecting from your devices and focusing on your relationships. There are also 3 bright pink timber structures that look like coffins. Ken lay on a coffin, I did the walk.
Clare and Tony were soon home as well. They had had a great day with Karen and Darren, lunching at Oyster Cove and visiting their home in Snug. We all rested for a little while, before we were ready to head out again for dinner.
We were keen to continue the Mona experience. They have a tiny brewery in Salamanca Place, Manky Sally’s. It was once at the Mona site, created by the owner in 2005 as a dig at the big breweries of Tasmania. It is a quirky, dim little place a “luxe dive bar”. We found a seat, the boys bought us all drinks and we settled in to the back room. Our food was good, the vibe was good and we had a great night, catching up on our days’ and planning the next. Tony had prawns, Clare and Ken had venison burgers and I had a fish. The wines and beers were good too.
We wandered home, back to our rooms for a well earned sleep.

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