Once again we began our day with a beautiful breakfast. Today we had opted for the western set. The presentation was a picture, the food was good, just not as interesting as yesterday - as you would expect. There was a croissant, a slice of bread, ham, some mashed potato, scrambled eggs, pickles, yoghurt with jam, salad and juice. Obviously that was way too much too consume, but what I ate was very good. I think I’ll stick to the Japanese style.
We finished up and got on the road again, heading to the Bamboo Forest. We walked to the Kyoto train station and quickly found our platform, decided to go to an earlier one and were on our way. It was busy, this is a popular destination, as we were about to find out. Leaving the station, we followed the long line of tourists joining us on our day out.
We made it to the forest and immersed ourselves in it.
It is quite something. The giant reeds of bamboo stand tall and majestic. The wind blows through them and they sway and clack against each other. It is beautiful to listen to. You do need to block out the chatter and noise of the crowd.
We detoured to the Tenryu-ji temple and gardens. It is a picturesque garden, with little statues and shrines. It leads down to the temple and that’s where we found more people. It is a pretty spot, overlooking a lake. It was fun to people watch as they strived for the best instagram shot. There was a couple in kimono outfits getting all the perfect poses and a lady who had her son and husband take a new photo every metre, just to get the perfect one. We sat for a while and Ken sketched and then headed back out to the bamboo trail.
We walked slowly and took it all in, looking up to the tips of the stalks as they moved about in the wind. This is designated as one of Japan’s 100 soundscapes, to combat the noise pollution and encourage people to listen to nature. It is certainly an immersive experience where you marvel at nature and feel peaceful. That is pretty impressive with a million others experiencing it with you!
Out of the forest and into the gardens we stopped for a coffee at a van. The couple before us had bought ice-creams, hers was an ice cream sandwich in a milk bun. While we were waiting for ours, she screamed out. A bird had taken it out of her hands and dropped it again a few metres away. There were some very big crows - their “caw caw” call was loud and menacing - and also a hawk about.
Probably the crow.
We found a place in the sun, the wind was bitterly cold today and enjoyed our coffee break. No snack, so no bird to fend off. There was warnings of bears and boars today - no sightings (that’s my wildlife report).
We walked down steep and precarious steps to the river, where we found ourselves almost alone. It was lovely to be in the still. There were little birds twittering and flying about, a water bird chasing tiny little fish and the occasional fellow walker. Ken went down to the water’s edge, he refrained from putting in his feet.
We walked along the river, back towards the town of Arashiyama and joined the crowds coming down the more used path. We enjoyed the views and walked across the bridge, admiring the reservoir and the lush forest to the little village where we looked at a shrine before walking through the very liveable neighbourhood.
Thinking about lunch, we ended up at the Family Mart and bought ourselves a little picnic. We found the perfect spot to sit in the sun. We were on the edge of a walking/cycling track and a park, overlooking a field of wild grass and flowers.
We could hear the reservoir rushing by, the wind in the grass, birds in the trees and a musician playing a handpan. It was very idyllic. There was the occasional jogger or cyclist, but mostly we were alone. Nice. We both had a salmon ongiri, Ken also had fried chicken and a can of black coffee and I had a matcha and red bean paste mochi and a matcha latte. It was a satisfying meal (the ongiri was too fishy for Ken - I know where Talia gets it from now).
Sated and rested, we headed back over the bridge and joined the crowds. We had a little look at a few of the shops. Lots of interesting and pretty food and a Miffy bakery and store - cute. We kept with the flow and made it back to the station and were soon heading back into Kyoto.
En route, we decided to switch trains and go the Golden Pavilion. Back one station and onto the queue for a bus. The first one couldn’t fit us, but we squeezed onto the next. Another popular destination. The attractions we were at yesterday were quiet, we thought we had escaped the peak season. Ha!
Like sheep, we followed the mob and ended up at the ticket booth. This was very efficient, it was the customers slowing it down. The ticket was very pretty too. We were soon at the viewing spot for the amazing Kinkakyu-Ji Temple - the Golden Pavilion. It is certainly gold (apparently 24kgs of gold cover it - the things you learn from eavesdropping on tour guides) and it shines in the sun. It is a one way tour and all too soon you are past the thing that you came to see and being herded towards the exit.
I wasn’t having that, so we quietly made our way back to a position where we could stop and admire and appreciate the beauty of the pavilion.
Then we were happy to be herded and left the complex through pretty gardens. There was a place where people seemed to be playing a game to make their wishes come true. You had to throw a coin, if it landed in the hole (not just by one of the sacred markers) your wish will be granted. Gambling for Buddhists?
We checked out a couple of gift shops, bought some cashew snacks and consulted google maps for our route home. Back on the 205 bus, squeezed in the door, we were on our way. It was a long trip, we finally got seats and enjoyed the ride. The bus driver gently spoke to us all the way. He told us when we were stopping, even if at traffic lights, when we were starting and said thank you to every passenger as they paid and alighted from the bus. In his white gloves he was a very friendly addition to our trip.
A short walk back to the hotel and we were ready for our onsen bath. Once again, we were both alone in our nudity and enjoyed the soothe to our bodies.
Ken visited the vending machine for beer and gin (that’s a first for us) which we enjoyed with the nuts we had bought at the Golden Pavilion.
Rested, we were ready to take on the evening. We walked in the wrong direction, still not great at analysing the google maps, reset and made it to the bus stop. We are good at this now and got off at Gion district. This is a traditional area where the Geisha are to be found if you’re lucky.
We admired the wooden architecture as evening grew darker and the lights in the lanterns were illuminated. We didn’t see a geisha, but did see a few women in kimonos out and about.
We stopped at an unassuming restaurant, couldn’t see behind that curtain. We were welcomed and told “cash only”. It was reasonably cheap so we were good. We both ordered rice dishes and shared a large beer. The other patrons were all having noodles and were very good at the slurping method of eating them. It was noisy with slurps! Not overly appetising. An average meal in an average restaurant, can’t win them all.
We went walking and ended up in the shopping district. We finally worked out that it was near the covered shopping area we went to yesterday. We walked up and down the street and then Ken’s back was feeling dodgy so we consulted the map and found the best route home. While walking to the bus stop, I bought us cookies from Ben’s Cookies. A dark chocolate and walnut for Ken, white chocolate and matcha for me. They were a nice snack while we waited for the bus.
It was cosy on the bus, that wind is chilling us to the bone. A 10 minute walk back to the hotel and ready to rest up for another big day tomorrow.
jillmac
2024-05-10
Lovely pics! I’m glad you are finding some spots away from the crowds. Waiting to see Jill in Kimono 👘
Maureen
2024-05-10
Not at the baths!!🤣🤣 Love the pictures of the bamboo