Wait a minute it's stopped raining! We could see glimpses of blue sky through the clouds as we ate our breakfast. Today we were walking from Howtown to Glenridding along the Ullswater lakeshore. This sounds a lot easier that yesterday's slog.
We drove to Glenridding and caught the Ullswater Steamer to Howtown where our walk would begin . There were other walkers on the boat, we chatted to a guy who was running around the tracks. Mad! The rain started as we cruised along the water. We enjoyed the beautiful views of the hills all around and hoped for fine weather. We could see the monstrous climb we did yesterday.
The rain did stop and we followed our map and headed in the direction from where we had just come. We walked along the lakeshore up small rises. The ground underfoot was rocky at times, muddy at times and occasionally spongy, where the soil cushioned your feet and then sprung back like a well baked cake. We needed to stop occasionally to take in the views as we had to concentrate on where to walk. I'm glad we have good shoes. The track dipped into farms, woodlands and back onto the water's edge. We walked through swing gates and even a couple of kissing gates. All the way the views were spectacular. There were birds out, chirping and plenty of sheep (and sheep poo to be avoided). This really is a beautiful place. We saw some daffodils fading away too soon, it made us weep!
We stopped at a tiny tea room for a coffee and the girls there talked Ken into having scones, which didn't take too much effort . They were pretty good scones.
There were yachts out on the water again today.This was the second day of a race, the first after the big storms last year that destroyed the yacht club and the bridge at Pooley Bridge. They were having a much easier time in this weather. Yesterday we could hear their sails flapping from way up on the hills, today we were really close to them and we could only hear the occasional call as they tacked or did whatever yachties do.
The weather was perfect for walking. I was down to a t-shirt for the first time since we had left home.
After almost 4 hours we made it back to the car. This had been a reasonably hard walk, but such a beautiful one.
We decided to drive out to have a look at Keswick, about half an hour away. I had a little doze in the car, warm in the sunshine and worn out after all that exercise.
Keswick is a pretty and bustling town. We went for a walk (because we need the exercise) around the large town square. There are a lot of places to eat, a multitude of outdoor clothing stores (should have come here earlier?) and the odd ice cream shop . We had an ice cream at Luchinis, "everything made on the premises". I had rhubarb and custard Yum.
We retuned to our guesthouse and got ourselves organised for an early getaway tomorrow. We are driving into London.
For dinner we headed back to the Brackerigg Inn. Our host said this is ok, but she doesn't put it in her reccomendations because the service is pretty bad. We arrived to many empty tables, some with reserved markers on, but still free tables available. There was another guy ahead of us asking for a table. He was begrudgingly given a table in the corner. The Bad Tempered Waiter Man then said to the Tired Swedish Bar man "so another two?" even though we were standing there and he could have just spoke to us. "Well I can give you a table, but there will be a wait for food, we do everything from fresh". Maybe the people who have booked a table have pre-ordered their food? We got a drink from Sven and sat at our table. Then Cheerful Man in a Tie (maybe the boss?) comes over to take our orders, but we haven't got menus yet. "Ooh, sorry about that, here we go".
I ordered a Wensleydale and and leek tart and Ken had a steak pie and both meals were really delicious and came out in good time. The beer was good and the night was entertaining. The soccer came on and Sven was hopeful Iceland could somehow beat France. We watched the end of it back at home. Alas, Iceland are out.
London tomorrow.


Steps 21,023
Kms walked 15.6