Stunning Gorges and more

Thursday, May 04, 2023
Carnarvon Gorge section, Carnarvon National Park, Queensland, Australia
Tuesday May 8 Charleville to Mt Moffatt
We farewelled Charleville and the Warrego river and headed east.  After about an hour of smooth bitumen driving through open woodland we reached Morvel, a tiny town, like so many others with a “must see”.  In this case it was a small hut built from flattened kerosene tins.  Apparently one of very few still complete in Australia.  Their use as a building material dates back to necessity during the depression.
Moving along through a similar landscape with little traffic, mostly road trains thundering past, after another hour we reached Mitchell.  Here we patronised the bakery for coffee and bread.  We were tempted by the offerings at the local butcher, very reasonably priced lamb and goat, but the freezer was full!!.   In Mitchell we met up with the Maranoa River, another river made famous in a bush ballad -  “On the Banks of the Maranoa”.  Here we go again…another river to follow.  This time we turned northwards and followed it all the way to its source in the Mt Moffatt section of the Carnarvon Gorge NP.   The strip of bitumen got thinner and thinner, eventually collapsing into holes and then we were on dirt.  (No, not gravel!!)   The road had been seriously damaged  by rain and road trains hauling timber out of the forest.   There were lots of hole, ruts…but thankfully no destructive corrugations.  The biggest challenge was dodging the road trains.  There were lots of them hauling dirt to upgrade the road and quite a few carrying timber.   The dust cloud associated with them was enormous and simply meant “Get off the road and stop”!!  We did a lot of that.
Eventually we passed the timber felling area and soon entered the National Park.  Our first stop was at a “Bark Hut”.  Rather a misnomer as it was made of timber, but of especial interest to Wendy as it was built in the same style as one built by her grandfather and in which her grandparents lived until about 1970.   There was a big rig and van parked nearby but no sign of life.  Our detective skills worked out that it was a solo traveller.   We had lunch, but still no sign of anyone.  Eventually, wondering if there was someone in the van who could be unwell, we shouted out and after getting a startled response, we apologised and left the man in peace!
We rolled into camp about 4pm just as the sun disappeared behind trees and the temperature started to plummet. We’d stopped along the way and gathered firewood, so enjoyed a fire while we had dinner and played some tunes.  The neighbours all had their own fires, so no one joined us, but we did get a bit of applause at distance!   One couple, heading off to bed early brought us some top quality wood from their fire.  Luxury!
Wednesday May 10  Mt Moffatt
We’d hoped to have placed the tent so it would get early morning sun, but we were wrong!  We stayed in bed until the sun had a bit of strength to it since it was freezing and we weren’t in a hurry to go anywhere.  With no internet and no thermometer, we have no idea just how cold it got, but it was the first time ever that the water pipes under the BT were frozen!  Fortunately there was another water source in the park.  We’re a fair way inland and up at 665m.
The day was spent touring a bit of the park  mostly by car with a couple of walks.   The sandstone pillars that appear here and there are amazing, as was one huge arch.   One walk was to a cave with some indigenous art.  It’s called the Kookaburra cave as there is a silhouette of what looks like the bird!  The most interesting bit of this art site was the mixture of   extensive petroglyphs as well as ochre.
Wendy went off on a walk “to the edge of the bluegrass flat to see great views of the escarpment”.  After 3km including a challenging river crossing, a track completely overgrown with thick grass to knee height, wild pigs, and no edge in sight,  she realized that what the instruction meant was go to the other side of the grassland (about 400m), turn around and admire the escarpment.  Oops.  A couple of very tired legs were the result.
Back in the BT we continued upwards on an increasingly challenging 4x4 track, eventually getting up to 1160m and to the head of the Carnarvon Creek.  Along the way we stopped to admire amazing views, a mahogany forest, enormous cycads, some with epiphytic ferns and many with ripe fruit which was being enjoyed by “something”.  Parrots we imagine, but we didn’t see any birds come while we were there.
After 75km of wandering in the BT we returned to camp at a very respectable 3pm and did a few domestic jobs, relaxed and enjoyed dinner by the warmth of the fire.
Thursday May 11            Mt Moffatt to Carnarvon Gorge
We didn’t want to wait till after 9 to start packing up – it wasn’t going to get anywhere near warm till about then, so we gritted our teeth donned gloves and packed up in subzero temperatures.  The only saving grace that even though everything was frozen, the air was so dry  there was no ice on the tent!  Being on the road early meant we had to watch carefully for the wildlife.  We saw plenty of roos and wallabies but being a slow drive there was never any real danger of hitting any.
We had a choice of routes that morning.  Would we return by the known route and face the road trains in order to have the last half of the drive on bitumen, or would we take a different, unknown very minor route with maybe no bitumen for the 150km drive.  We took the latter.  It was little more than a bush track most of the way, slow and a bit rough here and there, but no trucks!   There were a few dry creek crossing and lots of station country where there’d been fairly recent tree clearing on a big scale.   We were quite delighted to find that the last 40km into Injune was on a lovely if not narrow strip of bitumen.
Once in mobile signal range we sent a message to those we were to meet at the camp this afternoon.  We got an immediate response from Rick’s brother Paul.  He too was in Injune!  How was that for timing!  We didn’t hear from Francine and Al so didn’t know where they were.    After stocking up on a few supplies and checking out the information centre, we headed north.  We’d been recommended a scenic side trip that would add 30km to the trip.  We decided to do it so farewelled Paul and Bev again as they headed straight up the highway.  It was indeed a really scenic trip, firstly with views from the top of an escarpment, then a particularly steep drive down to the valley floor from which were surrounded by mountains until re-joining the highway.
Once we’d checked in to the Takaraka campground and set up camp we found where the others were.  Our non powered tent site was at one end of the rather large campground, Al and Francine’s not so glamourous permanent tent up on a platform, and Paul and Bev were inbetween with their caravan on a powered site.  Each of us had a camp kitchen and communal fire pit in our respective areas.   After a bit of a wander around, checking out a nearby lookout and the creek which offers the promise of platypus sightings (not yet!)  we settled into the camp kitchen closest to Al and Francine’s “house” as they were catering for dinner for us all.   Happy hour saw us at the bar where a video was shown to introduce the park and its walking opportunities.
Dinner was delicious, thanks Fran!  After dinner we fired up some music which it seems most of the neighbouring diners and campfire sitters enjoyed.  The camp commandant came at about 9PM to announce the lights would be going out in 20mins.  Just like a school camp!!  There was steady light rain falling and as we didn’t want to pack up in the dark we did a quick tidy up and headed off to our accommodations.   We were greeted with a mud puddle outside our tent, our towels that we’d left out to dry were drenched, but apart from that all was well.
Friday May 12
We all left camp at about 9am and headed for the Information Centre to get a bit of education.  Sadly we didn’t learn much, it was a bit disappointing.  Francine and Al headed off on a big walk to the Amphitheatre feature in the main canyon while the rest of us did the Nature Walk followed by Mickey’s Creek and Warrumba Gorge.   They were all wonderful and a bit different from each other.   Warrumba Gorge was especially wonderful  as we left the formed track and continued on, rock hopping into a canyon that got narrower and narrower while having  hugely high walls.  Al and Francine reported that the Amphitheatre was huge and amazing.  Not so good was that Al lost his sole…not his soul!   The sole of one of  his boots came off completely!
In the afternoon Wendy was the only one silly enough to venture out again, climbing Boolimba Bluff for stunning views
Tonight’s gathering for dinner was at the Echidna Camp Kitchen where Paul and Bev hosted us for a Mexican feast.
Saturday May 12  Carnarvon Gorge       
Wendy and Paul headed out early with big walks in mind while the others enjoyed a slow start.   They headed up the main gorge trail for about 4km.  Along the way they were overtaken by a very long legged man and gave him a bit of cheek watching him take one step for their two.   He gave them a strange look but didn’t say anything.   They met up with him again when they did the side trip into the “Art Gallery” site.  The combination of stencilling, painting and etching was very interesting again and in this case incredibly extensive – about 20m long.  Returning to the main trail, their long legged friend followed them.  Paul decided to return to base, visiting various other side sites along the way, while Wendy headed further up the gorge.   She asked the tall man if he was going further and he responded “no English, Spanish!)   That explained his previous lack of response!  Wendy broke into Spanish of course and the man was suitably surprised.   Needless to say, every time they crossed paths they had quite a chat.
All the side trips to various sites were totally worthwhile, narrow gorges, waterfalls, ferny and mossy glades, art sites…the photos will  say the rest.  It is worth trying to describe the Amphitheatre as the photos don’t do it justice.  It is an enclosed space about 20m in diameter with incredibly high walls, the only entry to it being a chasm accessed by ladders.   Wonderful that someone found it and parks has made it accessible. 
Francine and Al ventured to the Rock Pool but a wet creek crossing turned them back and they did the walks the others had done yesterday. 
Dinner was at the camp kitchen in Wendy and Rick’s section of the park – the totally unpowered section.  Since there are now very few tent dwellers not looking for power it is a very quiet spot!!  Rick prepared a delicious stew, made a pizza for entrée and fresh bread to accompany the stew.  Dessert was a fruit crumble made from fresh Wy Yung fruit and the luxury of icecream! 
We had wonderful evening of music and conversation, being joined by Mandy, a wonderful singer and guitarist and Ren who added to the conversation.
Sunday May 13  Carnarvon Gorge
Paul and Bev headed out early again while the others had a sleep in, meeting for a decadent breakfast of eggs and bacon and trimmings.    
Returning to the Rock Pool with walking poles, it was possible to make a dry creek crossing, but Al and Rick chose to walk in the water anyway!!   The short walk was pleasant and the reflections in the pool beautiful.  Returning to camp they enjoyed coffee and cake and the girls received calls and messages from their daughters for Mother’s Day.
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Comments

Val
2023-05-14

Wow lots of amazing adventures already and great pictures. All good with us still enjoying nice sunny days. Cheers from Shepp. 😄👍

Merran
2023-05-14

What wonderful walks and accompanying brilliant photos!!

Patricia Gordon
2023-05-14

Love Carnarvon Gorge and remember having ice creams there too on a hot summer day. Remembering all those side gorges. Thanks for all the pics.

Maree
2023-05-14

Carnarvon Gorge looks fabulous, your trip sounds great already (except for the freezing mornings 😬. Keep having fun!

Lyn and Ken
2023-05-15

Beautiful Carnarvon Gorge. You are all amazing bush chefs! Was that a blue snake in one photo? Pleased you saw the cute Carnavon Kangaroos. We saw Australia's smallest orchid while there. Daytime weather looks perfect.

Maureen
2023-05-15

Those inland areas can be mighty cold at night!!Carnarvon Gorge looks spectacular.

Kev
2023-05-15

Enjoying the photos and following the journey.

Valda
2023-05-16

We loved Mt Moffat too Wendy and Rick but were astounded by how cold it was there overnight. A bit like our first night on the East West last year at Drake.

2025-02-15

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