The most magical spots are found through the people you meet on your travels:  
 
It's a six-and-a-half hour bus ride from Georgetown to the embarkation point in eastern Malaysia which takes you to the island of Pulau Perhentian Besar . But low-and-behold if tech-savvy Elenka didn't find an airline that would deliver us to the same spot in 40 minutes for less than 25 bucks. We flew.
 
We found a place called the Reef Chalets, 10 cabinas sitting in an arc-like fashion, all facing the South-China Sea. Each morning I do a dive, while Elenka snorkels off the beach. In the late afternoon we drink a can or two of Chang beer over a game of cribbage, always finishing the match just before the sun disappears behind an adjacent island. A hen, her rooster and their two chicks set in with us each night for a dinner of fish and rice. 
 
Yesterday, we went for a dip in front of our place. Three fish, about twelve centimetres long, with green bodies, blue heads and little yellow spots on each side of their dorsal fins were having their way with us. They'd take turns swimming by and bumping their heads against our toes. 
 
Make note though, that it can be expensive here on the upscale Pulau Perhentian Besar. If your budget doesn't exceed $60 per day - for two - it's probably not for you. We decided to go all out though - if it wasn't for the $25 we've already invested in the return flight, we'd probably stay a little longer.