2 days in Budapest then to Zagreb

Tuesday, June 11, 2019
Zagreb, Croatia
  Sunday: 23 June: Zagreb  
After a week of ‘up and go’ each morning it was good to not have a schedule to meet, or riding to look forward to. Some others from the tour were still in the hotel se we saw a lot of familiar faces at breakfast and some farewells to make. 
Then out to check out to do the tourist thing - having bought dual Vienna-Zagreb big bus (ie hop on hop off) tickets previously, it was easy to pick up the bus nearby and follow a plan for sights to concentrate on. First stop was across the Danube and up the tallest hill in Budapest to view the ‘Statue of Liberty’ and surrounding fortifications (still badly pick marked from WWII) - which is not far from last nights dinner at the castle, which are key parts to what was the separate city of Buda. 
The weather turned to rain when we arrived at the spot to disembark the bus, so we declared it coffee time and retreated to a covered cafe. As the rain cleared we ventured out, though as today’s pics were a bit gloomy, I have added a couple of the same view during my previous sun filled visit. 
Apart from the amazing view of central Budapest city afforded by this vantage point, it also provides a great view of Budapest to the south and the lack of high rise buildings makes it very appealing.
Back then onto the bus doing the city loop with the plan to hop off and walk to a museum called the House of Terror, a major museum showing the atrocities suffered by Hungary, which our tour leader Jerry said provided insights into why Hungarians are so generally not cheerful or openly happy people - so I felt it was a ‘must see,. However, on arrival we were confronted by a 100 metre long queue, so decided in light of the heat and plenty of other things to see, to give it a miss today and come back tomorrow. Sadly, it wasn’t till the evening when I checked the opening times, that I discovered that it was closed on Monday’s  (ie tomorrow).
So a revised plan was to walk up the main thoroughfare to Hero’s Square and take a closer look at the statues, museum amend/or art gallery. Once there, one option was the museum, particularly to look at a collection of Michaelangelo’s work or have a local wander.
I chose the latter option and had close look at the 14  heroes from across the ages recognised in the curve of columns at the end of the square. Tour guide Jerry had suggested that the different faces, representations and clothing were with a look - which I did... and took pics.
Then I wandered out the back of the square where I found a small lake in front of a castle type of building, with paddle boats for rent and a very nice cafe along one side. The cafe was irresistible and I was soon snacking on ice cream and coffee! Relaxing over we hopped on the next bus and headed back to the hotel.
The plan for the evening was to take advantage of an option in the Big Bus ticket of a 90 minute river cruise. This was available through the day but we figured it would be a good evening option so we could see Budapest’s lights from the river. 
To get there we took a taxi (one thing the hotel did well was to organise these) and the receptionist recommended a street close to Pier 11 (where we boarded the boat) full of restaurants to choose from for dinner. While we didn’t take the top recommended restaurant we did find another goody - and as most Hungarian restaurants are very helpful at assisting with gluten free options, this one had good options for me in a 3-course deal.
Dinner done we headed to Pier 11 and joined other passengers, ordered drinks (cheap and large) and sat back to enjoy the passing view. A highlight was that the sky was magnificent and set off the buildings and fading light with a myriad of colours, cloud shapes and the odd vapour trail.
All too soon the cruise was done and it was time to disembark, wander to the end of the restaurant street, enjoy an ice cream hail a taxi and end another top Budapest day. 
Monday: 24 June: Budapest 
With the Big Bus pass finished and the House of Terror off the agenda today’s plan was to visit the Grosse Market, the huge synagogue in the Jewish quarter and take a close look at the Budapest Basilica. 
Deciding to pass on the not very exciting hotel breakfast we took a taxi to the 3-story Grosse Market, hoping to find breakfast there. The ground floor with its all sorts of produce -fruit and veg, meats, honey, jam, spices, chocolate etc, was super impressive and most interesting. The next level with very traditional Hungarian offerings (meat, stews, bread etc) was not quite right so we headed across the road (which was actually the end of the recommended restaurant street that we visited last night) and found an excellent bakery offering yoghurt and fruit, Agoda selection of cake (including gluten free) and coffee. Thus breakfast chosen we enjoyed the passing parade in the warmth!
We did head back into the market building to check out the 3rd floor handicrafts and clothing, but quickly determined that this was very tourist targeted, and so a quick exit was in order.
On the way to the synagogue I sought out a bank to assist me with some notes (ie currency) that I had held since visiting in 2013 (about AUD25 worth) ! Since then Hungary has updated its notes to include a metallic bit! Fortunately the first time I tried to use them when the restaurant waiter indicated he would not accept them, I had tour guide Jerry with me and she explained that I could exchange them at a bank. Fortunately I found two banks next door to each other as the first one was not at all helpful and referred me to a Change office several doors down - which was closed. On returning to the second bank I received top service and a smile. Oh and new notes! 
Just around the corner was the Jewish quarter’s large synagogue - the largest in Europe and the second largest in the world (after New York). The complex’ central garden contains the remains and is a memorial to Jews that died in and around the are during the nazi occupation of Budapest when the area was cordoned off as a ghetto and many starved. We then sat in on a description of the history, structure and purpose of the inside of the building, which also gave a sense of the practice of the Jewish faith and interactions between the groups that make up the community in Budapest. The building, signs explaining various happenings, some of the symbolism and the talk, were all very interesting. 
From there it was not too far to the Basilica - though as I always struggle with my (normally good) sense of direction when I am in the northern hemisphere some pointers were needed to correct my sense of direction. On arriving at the fairly crowded area, we discovered that there was a 50 minute classical concert bu the Basilica organ and a violinist, scheduled for 5pm. As this sounded like a good option we headed back to the hotel for a freshen up and chance for me to get Qantas too reset the code for my cash card after it was frozen after I entered the wrong code multiple times when I didn’t understand what the machine was telling me (stupid me and thanks to the call centre in the US for helping me out so patiently and promptly)!
Back to the Basilica early to take a look around the magnificent insides (no pics . .. I don’t take pics of the inside of churches, mosques, synagogues etc) and enjoy the ambiance before the concert started. To say the organ boomed out the music is something of an understatement, and I particularly enjoyed the pieces accompanied by the violin.
All too soon the concert was over and we sought out a nice dinner followed by ice cream nearby ... before back to the hotel and the end of sightseeing in Budapest!
Tuesday 25 June: bus to Zagreb
Today was the day to say goodbye to Hungary and head to Croatia. Another bag packing session, a quick bite to eat from the hotels basic breakfast offerings, order a taxi and we were off through relatively quiet streets (away from the city centre) to the ‘international’ bus station. Once we found the departure platform there was time for a coffee and to buy a few supplies for the 4 hour trip.
The bus departed pretty much on time about half full and increased to 3/4 full after another stop further out in Budapest. Then the trip out of the city, mostly on the A1 freeway where the speed limit is 130km and slower through a few towns, was fairly uneventful through lush fields and treed areas, except for crossing the border into Croatia. Here we all had to disembark the bus, present and leave passports with a Hungarian official, hop back on the bus and wait while passports were passed to and processed by a Croatian official 10m away. The passports were then returned to us by the bus driver.... then we were off. 
As we travelled into Croatia the countryside became more hilly, I noticed more towns centred on the hilltops and more of them than the flatter Hungarian farming areas. Before long we were driving through the streets of Zagreb, and into the large bus station. Bags collected, it was a short walk to a taxi and the friendly taxi driver (they smile in Croatia but not so in Hungary) stowed the bags and we were off to our hotel. However first the driver checked that we would pay in Croatian kuna (yes, thanks to Australia Post’s currency exchange service this was all good) before asking where we were from and a few other friendly questions. 
It wasn’t very far to the hotel (very close to the old town and city centre - I stayed here previously and had secured a good price by booking directly with the hotel), which is a beautifully preserved old style . ...’Palace Hotel Zagreb is located in an Art Nouveau palace dating from 1891, with a tradition of hospitality dating from 1907’. While it was slightly over our modest accommodation budget, it was a treat after the completely adequate but some fairly basic hotels experienced during (and as expected) the Intrepid cycling tour. 
Check-in was friendly, helpful and efficient efficient, accommodation not huge but well appointed and very comfortable, and with a room facing a large park, it was a good choice. After a bit of unpacking and freshen up we were off for a wander around the old town. Having arrived on a national public holiday -  Croatian Statehood Day - Croatia's national day which commemorates Croatia's declaration of independence from Yugoslavia on 25 June 1991, the city was very quiet.
First stop was the huge cathedral, then up the steep streets to St Marks, then a city viewing point and then a restaurant for dinner - which was a bit tricky as there were lots of casual drinks type of cafes in the streets close to the city square and up the hills, but actual restaurants no so much close to the main square and we were very hot. So an easy option was a nice restaurant in hotel Dubrovnik where we had great service by attentive waiters (including good advice about gluten free options), nice wines and an interesting conversation with the couple at the next table - New Zealanders who had travelled to Europe for the lady to meet her pen pal of 60 years in Prague, which was an extremely interesting story! 
And so another interesting day of travels was done!
Other Entries

Comments

Sally
2019-06-27

Great photos mum!

Maritta
2019-06-27

Great ramblings and fantastic photos Jenny. Looks like you are having great fun. Safe travels and thanks for sharing. Ulysses Dinner tomorrow night. 30 peeps locked in so far. Will miss you!

Chrissy
2019-07-04

LOVE imagining you at the markets. And then again in Zagreb - isn’t St Marks stunning?! Thank you for sharing your trip so beautifully JC x

2025-02-10

Comment code: Ask author if the code is blank