Day 6 - China to mongolia

Thursday, July 16, 2020
Beijing, Beijing, China
.. Day 6 Beijing to the China - Mongolia border.
Still pretty much on Canberra time I was awake early but enjoyed turning over and going back to sleep, anticipating that the upcoming night would have a broken sleep as we exit China, change wheels and travel across no mans land to the Mongolian border. 
When the time came it was the usual routine of finishing packing knowing a bit more about what to take on the train after last nights briefing, breakfast, check emails and take a couple of work calls and meet up with the group after checking out from the hotel. No problem about refunding the additional charge of the night I arrived - which it seems they also did to some of my fellow travellers!
We set out for a short walk around the corner to meet the bus that would take us to the railway station as our street is too narrow for the bus to come to the hotel. Being the former queen of the excessive packer, I was pleased to see that my luggage was fairly modest compared with some others, thanks to the 70Litre wheeled/back pack option bag that I bought after my Balkans Adventure in 2013, and further refined by a couple of riding trips (though I have also been known to freight luggage to and from destinations!)
We seemed to go for ages in the bus but it was more about the traffic congestion rather than a long distance to the huge railways station. A short walk and Youlia had our group ticket, we were through x-ray screening and security and directed to a waiting room where we took turns looking after the bags and buying supplies ( including quite good coffee).
And then would you believe it, but the lady from the wall who I passed on the street in Beijing yesterday and regretted not talking to, walked in!! I mentioned the incredible coincidence to one of my group and decided that this time I should make contact as she was probably going in the same direction. So I did. 
Turns out that Diana from Vancouver was indeed doing a similar tour, and her group ended up being in the same carriage. Their initial itinerary was slightly different with 2 nights in the Ger camp and one in UB, whereas we have the opposite, but they would be heading to Ulan Ude at the same time. It was good to meet her, hear briefly about her travels and of course I ran into her many times on the platform and in the train.
Before long it was time to board the train and we were told our carriage and bunk number. We were in the last of many carriages, which was a plus as it meant not much passing traffic in the corridor outside our cabin. Four to a cabin, two up and two down, linen and hot water provided, drop toilets not available coming into and leaving towns, mixed gender - there were 12 of us so no need to share with anyone outside our group but males and females together with a few rules around sharing the space. This leg I was with Youlia, Jo and Anne and had expressed a preference for bottom bunk, which I was kindly given. 
After a photo opportunity outside the train with a label in all three languages, we were back on board and we got away right on time at 11.22am. Then into our cabin to sort out bags (big ones stored under the seat fairly easily and room for small ones on top bunks, at the end of seats and on the floor). We settled down for a getting to know you chat, sharing a few personal details and stories - 4 single women together so naturally we shared  a few men-based laughs and stories ... none at the expense of anyone I know though.
The countryside slipped by - lots of amazing steep granite mountains, plenty of long, noisy tunnels and trains going the other way, small towns, large cities, finally blue sky, not too hot with the windows open and fan on, large wind farms, heaps of solar panels and several atomic power stations. 
Intrepid kindy paid for lunch and dinner in the dining car. We were given a ticket with an assigned time, and made our was 1/2 the length of the train to the dinning car where we waited for a spot in the 4-people booths where we were served a meat (or was it tofu for lunch as someone suggested later) and vegetable dish, with a bowl of rice. We could also buy beer, wine or soft drinks (all warm). At lunch I sat with a Chinese family and had a quiet meal. At dinner I sat with two young German men who were behind me in the queue from another tour group in my carriage and who spoke flawless English so conversation was easy. I also helped the aforementioned Diana to jump the queue past two Spanish couples and who wanted to sit together, and make up our table. 
The afternoon and evening passed with chatting (my 4-girl cabin was very companionable - I fear further combinations may not be so agreeable), standing and chatting to others, taking photos and watching a game of cards instigated by John with some of the girls. While Jo and Youlia played cards, Anne and I took the opportunity to make our beds. We were each provided with a felt / blanket underlay, two sheets, a pillowcase, pillow and a blanket. All very easy to manage and very civilised though not soft!.
I also read and instantly took to Bittersweet, by Colleen McCulloch, after spending time checking out the trip in the Lonely Planet Guide, and flicking through couple of motorcycle riding /maintenance books (all on my kindle). Till my eyes demanded to be shut and I may have dozed.
That was about 9.30 pm and from there till 2.00 am we were very busy. 
  • Chinese border where they took our passports and scrutinised us each carefully and checked visa details.
  • Chinese customs who collected our exit forms and checked our bags under the seats. I was asked to open mine.
  • Then over a 3 hour period of shunting, banging and bumping the boogies (wheels) of each carriage were changed as the rail gauges in China and Mongolia /Russia are different. We stayed on board and as the carriages were separated we could watch another carriage being done while ours was. Each carriage is raised with large jacks, the boogies are removed (each with 4 wheels - like large, metal lego pieces), the new ones are rolled in to replace the old ones and then attached. All set to go.
  • The train reconfigured and we proceeded across no mans land to the Mongolian border (about 1/2 hour), after receiving our passports back.
  • At the Mongolian border the same thing ... passports were checked and taken, customs took our forms and checked bags and passports returned.
Then we were into bed and off to sleep our way through Mongolia.

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